Hey there folks, great forum here.
I just bought an '86 s10 2.8tbi and am running into all sorts of problems. First thing is the idle is way high and it seems that the injectors are just pouring gas, I always thought they were suspposed to spay a mist not a large amount. Second, theres a steady beep when the light switch is turned on as if the lights are on when the key is off. Third, when the key is turned to the on position the check engine light dosen't come on and all the gauges don't work (volt meter, oil pressure, water temp)
I did change an injector, changed the fuel pressure reg (noticed the the adjusting screw was beat up pretty good) and just found out the alt isn't charging either.
Any and all help is greatly appericated


Rubes

 

update
started looking at the wires under the hood and noticed someone hacked up some wires and then 'wire nut' them together and some others bare or melted by the exhuast. One of the damaged wires was from the starter, it's a fuseable link, it only had 3 or 4 strands of wire holding it together.
I've got some questions I hope someone can help me with:
1. would the starter wire be the reason s/o wired the alternator to the battery?
2. would it also have s/tg to do with no dash lts or gauges?

thanks for your time and imput
Rubes

 

Repair all of the wires correctly and see what happens. The dash should not be affected, but the wiring problems could cause a fuse or two to blow.

 

I've read on here s/w that I need s/tg like 3 grds to ea. head, is this correct? can this be done from the 2 studs on either side of dist.? what do you grd to? the chassis, the fender, the front? (headlight area)
Also, seems like the guy who had this before had a system, I have an unidentified thin gray wire near the radio area too.


Rubes

 

another update:
found more wires that were damaged behind the mtr, am tracing the alternator wires to find breaks or something, bought a new alt and still show not to be charging (made sure it was before I left AZ). Found that the block where wire harness connects to back of the fuse box area looked as though it had gotten hot, theres some sort of tar looking stuff all over the inside (between) where it connects to the fire wall, as I understand it it's 'die-electric grease' I thought it was yellow in color. most of the connections were cover in that sticky mess, can't see where it could have made any sort of connection. foud out that gray wire in the radio area goes to the light switch some how, found it carries about 9 volts when you turn on the lights.


Rubes

 

Why would someone have to connect a jumper wire from the (+) side of the battery to the batt connection on the alternator?

Rubes

 

Its an easy way to turn an 2 or 3 wire alt into a 1 wire to make it charge. Not the correct way to fix a problem either.


Sounds to me you have a bad hacked up wiring harness in that truck.

 

Well that would be great if it worked but it doesn't even with a new alt, fact is, if that wire isn't connected the truck won't start. I found that if the (-) side of the batt isn't connected I have 12.55v on the batt side of the alt and on the one wire clip, connect the term and I lose power to the alt. (even if it's running)
Pulled the insturment cluster and found nearly all the bulbs burned out, replaced them and got the check engine light to come on, showed a 12 code (flashed 5 times)
How can I get the alt to charge? we really need this truck to run, it's our only transportation for my wife to get to work (she's a rural mail carrier)

Rubes

 

How many pins are there on your alternator? 2 wire aside from the main lug is the Delcotron SI (type 100), but if it has a 4-wire terminal aside from the main lug, then it is the Delcotron CS-130. Either requires a different wiring scheme.

 

Its the four pin kind with a single wire, just one wire in the molded clip.
BTW: just picked up a cardone EMC 77-7429

Rubes