1st Generation S-series (1983-1994) Tech Discuss 1st generation S-series (1983-1994) general tech topics here.

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  #21  
Old 01-23-2010, 09:15 AM
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Connector C100 is the one below the brake booster and below the washer pump. Yes that's the one in the fender well. The W/D says the wire to the injector is pink with a black stripe. The dark blue wire off your injector goes to the PCM, Connector 211 (supposed to be red), Pin A16 which appears to pulse to ground inside the PCM. What I'm saying is when you ground the dark blue wire, you should hear the injector energize. That's after you get power to the injector (through the pink/black wire). Does this make sense or am I getting something wrong here (seriously)? There are only 2 wires that go to the injector. You should have continous power to it (Pnk/Blk wire) with the pulse handled by the PCM (or ECU) pulsing to ground (via the Dk Blu wire). (Did I repeat myself? Sorry if I did) I'm only looking at a wiring diagram but will go out and put my eyeballs (and a test light) on the real deal this morning.
If you don't have power to the injector and the ECM 1 fuse is good, I would try jumping around the fuse maybe a fused jumper directly off the battery to eliminate the injector itself as the problem. It looks like you are going to have a power supply problem to me if you don't have any volts to the injector. Broken wire or bad splice at S107 (see previous post for location). This is where I would start looking. Splice S107 also feeds your PCM on two pins (E15 & F15), linear EGR solenoid and variable tuning control relay so it's a pretty important one.
 

Last edited by Gimpy Blazer; 01-23-2010 at 09:32 AM. Reason: more info
  #22  
Old 01-23-2010, 04:54 PM
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pink63impala
OK I looked at my 94 Blazer Vortec just to make sure. There is a Pink/Black stripe wire and Dark Blue wire coming out of the large wire loom over the left valve cover and feeding into a connector (C103). The other side of the connector is the actual injector wiring and is Red (hot) and Blue (ground). I disconnected the connector (at the Pnk/Blk end) and checked the Pnk/Blk connector receptacle for voltage. Lit my trst light up just fine with the switch in the "Run" position. If you don't have power here with the key on you probably need to work backwards from there. I didn't try the jumper thing at the injector but if I were you I would to eliminate that possibility. I'll bet you can hear it energize if you do. From the W/D it's just a silenoid and should give you a "clack". You say your ECM 1 fuse is good. Have you checked it with a meter to make sure. It's only 10 amps and might not smoke the fuse black if blown. My only other suggestion would be to peel back the big wire loom and check the wiring between the C103 connector and the C100 bulkhead connector. Hope this helps.
 
  #23  
Old 01-23-2010, 08:39 PM
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so you r saying try and run a fused 12 volt source straight to the injector , which the pink wire is hot then? will i fry it if i try and see if itll start like that? the injector should open up and spray fuel?

if you could elaborate on your pin #s or a photo would be great!
i have no clue where or what c100 103 211 is !
 
  #24  
Old 01-23-2010, 08:42 PM
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also on my pic in the earlier post,right next to the yellow x there is a wide plug with looks like 4 or so wires on it. theres nothing for it to plug into.it doesnt have anything to do with the injector does it?
 
  #25  
Old 01-23-2010, 08:43 PM
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with yalls help i may can get er going!
 
  #26  
Old 01-24-2010, 12:51 AM
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OK. One more time as I have told you in earlier posts.
C100 is the big connector on the engine side of the firewall from the fuse box.
C103 is the connector above the valve cover where the Pnk/Blk and Dk Blu wires turn into Red and Blue. It runs straight off the 10 amp ECM 1 fuse anyway so you are not going to fry anything if you disconnect it first. You are going to try to supply power and ground to the injector and see if it opens (or hear it I should say) and you are not going to run the pump or have the key on so no fuel (or spark) is present to spray or ignite.
C210 & C211 are the red and blue connectors at the PCM. Don't worry about them for now.
You don't have to do any of this if you don't think it will work or are uncomfortable with it but this is what I would do just to make sure the injector opens and functions. Your battery should be hooked up for this both Pos & Neg
1) Disconnect the C103 connector. (You have just isolated the injector)
2) Run a fused (10 amp in-line fuse) jumper from the battery directly to the Red pin on the injector side of the connector)
3) Run a jumper wire from the Blue (injector side of connector) pin and ground it. If the injector is functioning you should hear it actuate. You have just taken the place of the PCM and I would tap it several times and not leave it open too lomg. The PCM doesn't. (If you can't hear it work make sure you have a good ground. I grounded my test light on one of the manifold studs and didn't get a good one until I used the ABS module as a ground.) If conections are good and no sound then I would say you have a problen with the injector (too).
Back at C103 on the shipside wiring you must get 12v to the Pnk/Blk wire pin. I don't mean with a jumper. It really needs to come from the ECM 1 fuse. It is hot all of the time and the PCM pulses to ground internally and makes the injector actuate. You have already said you don't have voltage to this but the fuse isn't blown. (I would pull the fuse and double check it with a meter but if you're happy with it OK.) Only one other thing brother and that's the wiring or bad connection somewhere between the fuse (cab side of C100) and C103. Keep us posted.
There's more than enough info here for troubleshooting.
 
  #27  
Old 01-24-2010, 08:52 AM
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thanks for the info. ill go out to the garage in a few and go over all those suggestions.
 
  #28  
Old 01-24-2010, 12:35 PM
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i did that witht the injector and i hear a click when i touch it tothe battery. am i supposed to hear something else? also coming out of the firewall,there are 4 pink wires with a black stripe on them. two of the four wires are going to one of two relay mounted on the firewall..of the 2 that dont go to a relay, one has 12 volts and the other none.the one with voltage isnt connected to the ecu1 fuse,i pulled the fuse and it still has power.on the other wire if i touch 12 volts to it,i hear the relays click,maybe sounds like the fuel pump was running.
 
  #29  
Old 01-24-2010, 05:09 PM
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OK. Your injector os good if you hear it actuate. The other Pnk/Blk wires go to other items. Pnk/Blk is a common wire color for engine control power source. We're concerned with the one to the injector. I really think if you find the reason that you have no voltage to the C103 connector Pnk/blk wire (bad connection, broken wire, etc.) and repair it your problem will be solved. This is what I feel you need to concentrate on next. Don't get sidetracked. You can unloom the wires from connector C100 (don't ask which one it is) and see where the wire is bad. You need to get 12 volts to the Pnk/Blk wire from slot H2 on connector C100. The other side of this is connected to the ECM 1 fuse.
Just to be sure. You put the jumpers on the red & blue wires at connector C103 coming out from the manifold, not the Pnk/Blk wires at the connector and you heard the injector click. Did you tap the ground jumper several times to be sure?
 
  #30  
Old 01-24-2010, 05:29 PM
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i used a wire with clips on it and attached them directly to the injector,
ground straight to the battery.and touched the pos side on and off to the battery too. it clicked each time i touched the battery.

can i put the plenum back on and run a wire to the pos side of the injector and see if the engine will run?
 


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