Im at wits end here with my vehicle. 1994 s-10 blazer. cpi. It sputters when i give it some gas. I have to lightly give is gas to where it doesn't sputter too bad and i can accelerate. Fuel pressure is good. New spark plug wires, spark plugs, no codes. it doesnt seem to sputter near as bad when I put the car in neutral at stop lights so it doesnt stall out. Im going to be looking at replacing the egr, however, i have a feeling thats not the problem. Thanks in advance.

 

Have you checked the timing? Or checked for good spark out of the coil?

 

how do i go about checking the timing. I'm what many would call a half *** mechanic. I have some knowledge of things I've worked on in the past so I'm sorry. I've never had to check the timing before. Haven't checked for spark yet but will be doing that tomarrow. What would be the symptoms of a bad MAP or a bad EGR?? By the way thanks for replying.

 

bad EGR or MAP could cause similar results, certainly worth a look. To check the timing you will need a timing light, then just do a search on the forum... there's a how-to on here some place.

As for spark, get yourself a good spark tester from a nearby auto store....make sure you get a reasonable spark out of it.

It could also be low fuel pressure (bad pump / clogged filter / leaking CPI)

 

I would check the fuel filter first. when they clog they give sypmtoms related to what you are describing.

 

EGR is $200 for your truck, and all it needs is to be cleaned not replaced... But I doubt thats your problem... When the EGR sticks open, your truck stalls out completely and will restart again easy.

I would get her running, open the hood, and look down behind your EGR for the red/blue wires that go into the intake manifold. Grab them, and wiggle them around. If there is any change in how its idling, you have found your culprit.

That is the injector harness... Its going to be your problem I would bet my left nut on it. Good thing, its a $7 part... Bad part, requires you take the plenum off the truck to replace by cutting the old one off and soldering on the new one. So add on another $15 for a new plenum gasket as well. You will also get a good look inside for a leaking nut kit or FPR while you are inside the plenum. Even a novice can do this fix, there is tons of threads and pics available on here to walk you through it. Requires a soldering iron, solder, 10mm socket, 7mm socket, wire cutters, heat shrink tubing... And you are in business. Its about 1-2 hours till you are running again.

The auto parts store probably cant find a listing for this part for your truck, just ask for the injector harness for a 1500 series v8 of the same year, its the same part.

This is the part you need


And this is where you find the wires to tug on. Down under the accordion like intake tube.

 

ok, so its been a while. Thanks for the help. Ive been busy and fed up with the blazer. Im limited on mech. skills so i get frustrated easily. I plan on getting to some type of school or maybe a part time job just to get to know it better. So recently, ive cleaned the egr, checked spark, fuel pressure, fuel filter, map sensor. I will be trying the jiggling of the red and blue wires. Bu heres the issue. Im throwing a code 34. Ive checked with a multimeter on the egr and the map. Both seem to have 5 v and also the terminal on the ecm. Truck still wants to choke out when i press on the gas pedal. sometimes i can take it around the block and thats about it.

also the fuel pressure holds after i turn the engine off. Takes forever for it to bleed down.

 

did you clean the Egr yet?

 

yep cleaned...3 times. I've unplugged the battery to reset the codes. Took it around the block, fortunately it let me, and code 34 showed back up. Ive spent the last 2 days tinkering around and with no result. Even pain one those experts online to walk me through. Still I sit with a vehicle that won't get me to the firehouse for work tomarrow. Out of ideas and I dont wanna buy an ECM if thats not the problem.I did fix one vaccum leak and cant find any others. I do hear a slight hissing sound near the alternator but i think it might be the alternator itslef making that sound.

 

Hopefully this helps you out




Let me know if you cant read the pages Ill retake the pictures.