New here - tips for air filter/oil change?
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 4

Hey guys, new here, have a '92 Chevy Blazer with the 4.3 v6. Got 204k miles and she still runs like a charm. I reckon I have a few questions. Since I've gotten this (less than about 2k miles ago), I still haven't changed the oil. Now I've changed the oil on a few different vehicles, this is the same deal correct? Take bolt off of oil pan, let it drain, put plug back in, replace oil filter (are they a hassle to get to/get off?), and replace oil through I believe the valve cover on top of the engine? I tried searching a little bit on the forum, but didn't find a whole lot - probably ought to better use the search function lol, but tips would be appreciated.
As well to this, I'm curious as to how exactly, or what is the best air filter to change with this truck? As is, the Air filter isn't like any other car I've dealt with (had a tube ontop of the intake, running to the front-side engine bay where you replace filter there), where as this one reminds me of the old school V8's with the cylindrical on top with a hose going to the side. Any idea on how wide of a diameter the intake is? I recall seeing some air filters for sale @ autozone that is just the cylinder-type that goes on top, except it doesn't have the long arm - would that just be plug and go? From what I see, it just connects using 2 wing-nuts from the intake I believe.
Thanks guys, appreciate any input. I'll have to get some photos up soon. Been quite busy, and going to drive to FL from East TN tomorrow, so I want to get her in as best shape as possible for the long haul.
As well to this, I'm curious as to how exactly, or what is the best air filter to change with this truck? As is, the Air filter isn't like any other car I've dealt with (had a tube ontop of the intake, running to the front-side engine bay where you replace filter there), where as this one reminds me of the old school V8's with the cylindrical on top with a hose going to the side. Any idea on how wide of a diameter the intake is? I recall seeing some air filters for sale @ autozone that is just the cylinder-type that goes on top, except it doesn't have the long arm - would that just be plug and go? From what I see, it just connects using 2 wing-nuts from the intake I believe.
Thanks guys, appreciate any input. I'll have to get some photos up soon. Been quite busy, and going to drive to FL from East TN tomorrow, so I want to get her in as best shape as possible for the long haul.
#2
Starting Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Iowa
Posts: 232

Welcome. From your description of the vehicle intake system I am guessing you have the 4.3 TBI (Throttle body injection) motor.
The oil filter is easy to change. It is located on the drivers side of the engine bay towards the front mounted on the fender. Hope whoever did the last oil change did not He-Man the filter on though.
Changing the oil is just like you stated. Pop the plug out, let it drain a few minutes, plug it up and you are good.
The air filter is a simple replacement as well. Just pop off the air cleaner lid and replace the filter. You can replace it with an "open element" air cleaner like you saw at AutoZone but then the engine would be drawing in hot air instead of getting it from the front of the truck. Just go to AutoZone and pick up a new air filter for your year truck and replace it.
Hope this helps.
The oil filter is easy to change. It is located on the drivers side of the engine bay towards the front mounted on the fender. Hope whoever did the last oil change did not He-Man the filter on though.
Changing the oil is just like you stated. Pop the plug out, let it drain a few minutes, plug it up and you are good.
The air filter is a simple replacement as well. Just pop off the air cleaner lid and replace the filter. You can replace it with an "open element" air cleaner like you saw at AutoZone but then the engine would be drawing in hot air instead of getting it from the front of the truck. Just go to AutoZone and pick up a new air filter for your year truck and replace it.
Hope this helps.
#3
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 4

Appreciate it man. Got the oil changed, but I reckon the guy heman'd the oil filter lol. The little sucker had the gripping at the bottom, but I still couldnt nudge it - barehanded or with a rag on it. I left it on there for now, and I'm figuring I'll definitely change it out when the next oil change comes. Hopefully it shouldn't be too dirty and will handle it alright.
Also, got me an air filter as well. Is it just me, or are our filters quite popular? They had none with K&N or Purolater, I had to go with some semi-off brand they had for it, but it seems good enough quality. I just noticed after I took off the set up that it has the lid on it. Took off the whole air portion to realize it was in two pieces lol. Once it was known though, quite convenient for changing out.
I reckon, are there any threads for changing the spark plugs? I don't plan to do it this weekend, but I figure when my paycheck rolls around next week it couldn't hurt. I've read up a little bit and I hear one ought to try for the Del Co spark plugs, but I tried looking around the valves and such and couldnt find where they are? I used to have a 2002 Lincoln LS which had the coilpacks basically inside the pre-valves that I had to change a few times along with the spark plugs, but this I couldnt find it? On the left side I recall seeing what looked like a boot over a spark plug, but just one (near where the oil goes into), but because of a lack of 3 on each side (I think it was just the one I saw on that side, but I couldnt find any on the other) it makes me doubt that it was the spark plug. Gotta admit, just doing preventative maintanance on this car sure makes me feel like a fool, but we all gotta learn somewhere I reckon. Thanks for the help amigo
EDIT: As well, curious as for any future tips of changing the oil filter? I know on the lincoln it was incredibly tight so I bashed a screw driver through it to loosen it up enough to turn, but on this truck I didn't have nearly enough leeway to get it. Much better to grip with the hand, but probably about 5'' on one side of leeway with 1'' on the other. Not nearly enough to fit a screw driver, let alone to hammer it in the filter. Any tips for getting one off thats so tightly on? Worst case I can just buy my oil and hopefully not pay too much to let another place replace them. And luckily enough, I still have the oil filter I bought on special at autozone to better help out the price predicament heh. Thanks all
Also, got me an air filter as well. Is it just me, or are our filters quite popular? They had none with K&N or Purolater, I had to go with some semi-off brand they had for it, but it seems good enough quality. I just noticed after I took off the set up that it has the lid on it. Took off the whole air portion to realize it was in two pieces lol. Once it was known though, quite convenient for changing out.
I reckon, are there any threads for changing the spark plugs? I don't plan to do it this weekend, but I figure when my paycheck rolls around next week it couldn't hurt. I've read up a little bit and I hear one ought to try for the Del Co spark plugs, but I tried looking around the valves and such and couldnt find where they are? I used to have a 2002 Lincoln LS which had the coilpacks basically inside the pre-valves that I had to change a few times along with the spark plugs, but this I couldnt find it? On the left side I recall seeing what looked like a boot over a spark plug, but just one (near where the oil goes into), but because of a lack of 3 on each side (I think it was just the one I saw on that side, but I couldnt find any on the other) it makes me doubt that it was the spark plug. Gotta admit, just doing preventative maintanance on this car sure makes me feel like a fool, but we all gotta learn somewhere I reckon. Thanks for the help amigo
EDIT: As well, curious as for any future tips of changing the oil filter? I know on the lincoln it was incredibly tight so I bashed a screw driver through it to loosen it up enough to turn, but on this truck I didn't have nearly enough leeway to get it. Much better to grip with the hand, but probably about 5'' on one side of leeway with 1'' on the other. Not nearly enough to fit a screw driver, let alone to hammer it in the filter. Any tips for getting one off thats so tightly on? Worst case I can just buy my oil and hopefully not pay too much to let another place replace them. And luckily enough, I still have the oil filter I bought on special at autozone to better help out the price predicament heh. Thanks all
Last edited by SlapBassist531; 02-18-2011 at 05:15 PM.
#4
Starting Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 134

It is a little hard to get a grip on that filter where it's located. If you're planning on doing your oil changes from now on you will be ahead to buy yourself a filter wrench..You can pick up one for just a few bucks. I like the one that takes a 3/8 drive ratchet. The one with the long built on handle doesn't work too well on those filters, no room for them..When you put the new one on, spread a little oil on the gasket and just put it on hand tight.
I think the best way to change your plugs is by pulling the wheels and doing it through the wheel wells. You'll need a couple of different length extensions and a universal,or a spark plug ratchet..Have to be really careful putting them back in, you can get them cross threaded very easy and won't even know it til it's too late..I use one of the long boots off of an old plug wire to get them started, that way if they're cross threaded you'll know it before you strip the threads. Just stick your plug in the end of the boot, it'll hold it tight enough to get it started..
I think the best way to change your plugs is by pulling the wheels and doing it through the wheel wells. You'll need a couple of different length extensions and a universal,or a spark plug ratchet..Have to be really careful putting them back in, you can get them cross threaded very easy and won't even know it til it's too late..I use one of the long boots off of an old plug wire to get them started, that way if they're cross threaded you'll know it before you strip the threads. Just stick your plug in the end of the boot, it'll hold it tight enough to get it started..
#5
Starting Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 146

If your oil filter is on the side of the engine, I'd suggest a Fram Toughguard oil filter. They have a textured part on the end, which makes it easier to grip with your hand or with an oil filter wrench. If it's like my 89 TBI truck, it's bolted to a housing on the side of the engine, and those are cake to replace. I'm running a Bosch filter right now, thinking of going Fram when I change it.
Air filters are super simple, but don't get the cone-style. Unless you're building a CAI.
As for spark plugs, I've heard really good things about NGK Iridium plugs. If you're going to AutoZone, don't get the cheapo Iridiums, request the NGK ones. They might be $6/ea or more, but trust me. Worth it. And yeah, unless your truck's body lifted, you're gonna have a FUN time getting to the back 2 spark plugs.
Air filters are super simple, but don't get the cone-style. Unless you're building a CAI.
As for spark plugs, I've heard really good things about NGK Iridium plugs. If you're going to AutoZone, don't get the cheapo Iridiums, request the NGK ones. They might be $6/ea or more, but trust me. Worth it. And yeah, unless your truck's body lifted, you're gonna have a FUN time getting to the back 2 spark plugs.
#6
Heads up, everybody. Depending on whether the Blazer is 2wd or 4wd will determine where the oil filter is mounted. 2wd is on the engine block left side above the oil pan and 4wd is remote mounted on the front left ahead of the engine. Advice for removing the filter needs to take these differences into account.
#7
Starting Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 134

Yep, mine's 4wd, it's located behind the right (facing it) headlight. Have to take the air cleaner out to get to it.
#8
I just pop out the intake tube on my 4x4 and grab it with a good ole "Ukrainian socket wrench"
(Plumbers adjustable pipe wrench)
Doesnt matter if you thrash the old one up taking it out, just put the new one in handtight.
Another thing, put about 10 papertowels under it cause its going to leak some oil when you loosen the old one, might as well catch the mess and use the rags for starting a campfire!
(Plumbers adjustable pipe wrench)
Doesnt matter if you thrash the old one up taking it out, just put the new one in handtight.
Another thing, put about 10 papertowels under it cause its going to leak some oil when you loosen the old one, might as well catch the mess and use the rags for starting a campfire!
#9
As for the oil filter removal, I recommend an oil filter wrench; but the chain type, not the one with the flat strap which can slip very easily (specially if the filter is dirty or oily). It will bend the filter on its outside, but it will surely take it out. So make sure you have the right replacement filter before you remove the old one using that wrench, then oil the new one's gasket (clean quick tip: by touching the new and old filter gasket-to gasket) and hand tight it.
By the way, make sure you use the right oil grade!
#10
Starting Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 146

The 4wd oil filter's easy to change without removing the air cleaner box. For me anyway.






