Ok, so I went to pick this Blazer up and guess what, no start.
The old guy says it was running fine three months ago and he bothered to put new brakes on it,new wiper motor,and a starter.
He was asking $1400, I offered $1100 because I would have to make a return trip to the edge of the universe.
So I come back with gas, cap, rotor, and new battery, still no start, just it fires a bit on and off and the fuel tank is leaking bad.
So I offer $500 and I will take it away, I get it home put new plugs in and wires, it starts but idles real bad with a serious lope, but with throttle it revs up and the engine sounds pretty good actually.
I let it run until warm, shut it down, come back in a half hour and no start, just fires bit but no start.
It has excellent spark, so I'm putting a new tank on it, changing the fuel filter, and what I am wondering is if this thing has crap in the lines how would I get it out?
Nice looking truck, if I can get it running.
Okay, now i am adding to this post, I am having trouble finding a fuel pressure gauge but will have one in a few days.
In the mean time I have observed that if I cycle the key repeatedly on and off and try to start it, it fires and trys but no run condition.
The bleedvalve at the engine only gives a tiny spurt when I press it to see if it has built up pressure, and if I give it a shot of ether it fires a bit but no start.
I pulled a couple plugs and they were wet.
Should I assume I need a fuel pump and change it now before I put the new tank back in?
Also have heard of something called a pulsator, what is it and where is it?
If the pressure from the pump is good, does that mean the regulator is bad?

 

What was the cap for? Was the fuel tank without cap?! If yes, I guess a lot of dirt is inside it, so you need to clean it if you're not changing it, and you might have clogged fuel pump strainer (change it anyway), or fuel filter. You should change the filter anyway (it's not expensive), so when you remove the filter, ask someone to try starting it for you, and check if there's fuel coming out from the pump's line. Test the pump if it's receiving power. Could be water and dirt in the fuel line too...
Wish you the best

 

That was a new distributor cap and rotor.

 

I would put in a new pump in a new tank, thats a good idea and cheap insurance. Get a new relay for it too while you are at it. You can also take off the fuel filter and blow some cleaner down the lines while they are open too. What engine are you tinkering with?

 

It's a 4.3 vortec, 119,000 miles on it.
I picked up a good fuel pressure gauge today and will repost with the results.
I will then change the tank and filter and clean everything out best I can, will put that pump in as well.
So whats this pulsator thing?

 

Hooked up pressure gauge today and I get 60 psi on key on, and drops to 52 when the pump starts.
Engine almost acts like it is flooded because when I came home today and turned the key it started and run rough for a minute before stalling.
Then it would not start again.
So what is the next step, what makes sense to look at next.
oh yes, got code 12 and 23.
But that shouldn't stop it from starting, correct?
Would a stuck egr stop it from starting?
Help

 

i would bet that your spider injector is shot,wether its just the pressure regulator or not i would replace it and the nut kit.It must have been a poor design or idea since they only used this style from 92-95.Heres a link that may help you understand your cpi system.

http://www.tomorrowstechnician.com/A...injection.aspx

 

Fuel pressure checks out at 54 to 60, took the plenum off, no leaks, good spray from poppits, cleaned everything.
Reassembled, no start.
All vacumm lines are good, excellent spark.
Frustrated now.
Thanks for the article, helps me to understand this system.
I'm a diesel guy so this a wierd system to me.

 

I've had a chance to review the article about the cpi system and I'm starting to think that the fuel pressure on my Blazer is just border line or under.
So, I'm thinking that would be the reason why I get an almost start, or maybe a bit wet on the plugs but not a good enough spray to start.
Once again, no leaks under plenum and the pressure today with the pump jumped at the relay builds to 60 max and when the pump is off drops to 52-54, after an hour it drops to 30 psi.
By the way, I have found it impossible to get reliable detailed info on setting up the timimg of the distributor to the engine.
This is the distributor with the flat pickup and plug area at the back.
When you look at the front of the balance pulley there is two notches, do I use the one on the left or right? There is no paint mark.
Also, I have the marker plate with little v shaped notches, do I use the peak of a triangle (which one?) or the valley(which one)?
No talk about doing this when the engine is running because I can't get it started.
What I am trying to do is get the distributor in correctly from a topdead center position.
The previous owner had a bunch of drunks working on it and they have EVERYTHING messed up.
When I crank it and put lots of ether in it , it almost starts.
Any links that I have been able to find on this site seem to be for a different engine or different year or broken links.
It's not that I don't know how to time an engine but I have to know that specs to begine with, Haynes is useless.

 

Yes Haynes is useless.
What year is your truck?
Also you don't have to jump the relay to get the pump to run. You have what's known as a pump prime port which is an electrical connector (mine is on the right side of the firewall near the juction block [1994 model]) and it's a single female connector not hooked to anything. This is exactly what it's for. The book says to use a FUSED (15 amp) jumper and run it straight from the battery. The junper isn;t hard to make. Mine is an inline fuse holder and an extension with a male blade terminal end.
I have a factory Service Manual for a 1994 and will look up the timing mark thing but a little more info on yours would be helpful.
OK. I looked up some stuff in the manual. You have to go to the Driveability and Emissions manual to find it.
Answer to one of your questions. Pulsator is attached to the fuel pump. What it's for I have no idea. Of you get fuel through it I wouldn't worry about it.
Code 12 you're going to get all the time. Code 23 is intake air sensor high - low air temp indicated.
First step in timing is to disconnect the tan and black striped wire on the distributor.
If you're trying to set the initial timing you need to get the engine to 0* TDC. The old screwdriver in the spark plug hole works for this as long as you know you're on the compression stroke. The manual doesn't tell you much except follow the sticker on the radiator shroud and gives you a picture that is pretty vague but appears to use the left groove (looking towards the engine from the front) and the timing tab seems to be in line with the right bolt (again looking towards the engine from the front). Sorry if it doesn't help you out. Hope it's more than you had.