hey i got a friend who told me not to do brake torques or burnouts in my 91 blazer cuz id drop the transmission...is that true?






1991 s10 blazer 4x4 4door v6 4.3L

 

Doing brake stands and burnouts puts a lot of pressure on brakes, drive shafts, u-joints, transmission, transmission mounts, engine mounts and tires.
If something is weak, it will break. Nothing is for sure. I'm sure we have all pulled stunts in our trucks at one time or another.
The question I have is, can you afford to fix the parts that break?
This is also the sort of thing that will get you attention from the police,

 

haha ya police...that wouldnt be good considering i just got my lisence...but no i dont have the money to fix anything over 200
doin one wont hurt anything right?

 

There is no way to tell if it will hurt something or not as Chevy Lover already stated. It all depends on the health of your vehicle.

 

These trucks/SUVs where not designed to SHOW OFF or SHOW BOAT, if you want that go buy a Hot Rod or build up your truck/suv to handle it.

Stock they are not made to do these things. You should never do a Nutral Drop it can twist the rear axle, bust mounts, break U-Joints, ect.....
Breaking while RPM rev to do a burn out can burn up your rear break pads, bust a drive shaft, blow out the ABS system, toss an Axle, cause electrical shorts due to over load on the system.

Look at NHRA drags, they run over a special wet area to do these pre burn outs to warm up their tires to help them stick to the track. NOT DRY PAVEMENT.

If you ever looked close at most performance trucks they are not the newer models (unless they are highly modified with roll cages, motors, tranys, and much muchmuch stronger componits). Most of them are the mid 80's and older trucks before they were labeled SUV's. Like the older K5 blazer, C10, C20, sometimes the C30, or my fav the 3 door Suburban.

The newer stuff was built to break in 3 to 5 yrs (avg. time a consumer replaces what they drive, well atleast those that lease or just get bored with what they are driving). This is why you see the newer 2008's dropping in retail price, due to they are being built cheaper and are built only to last 3 to 5 yrs before they end up in a bone yard due to major system failure.

Look at the H2's. They use to be around $150,000 for a bone simple one. Now you can get one for $14,500 off the show room floor. Hence why most call the newer (anything after 1998) Built to recycle not built to LAST.

 

H2's arestarting at$54,225, and H1's start at $140,796. If H2's started at $14,500, then I would've been a member of a Hummer forum and not a Blazer forum....... no...j/k, I love this forum . Just a heads up MNHawk, IMO Hummers are great trucks (well except for H3's). Hummer.com

 

odd, a dealer I know not far from me said they can get me into a bare bone stock H2 for that price. Guess its a special deal or a close out. Who knows, I sure don't.

And Heck YEA, this forum does ROCK. It is way better then most of the others I know of. More active too [sm=exactly.gif]

 

That's agreatdeal for a brand new Hummer, but maybeit's forthe H3? i dunno.

[sm=groupwave.gif]<<<< these are for the best forum in the world! lol... thanks toeverybody.

 

so if i pour water on the road itl be better for my truck....or on a rainy day

 

Not to say its alright to do this, but when I was younger my buddies and I would do burn out comp when we were bored. What we did to ensure a good spin without much damage on dry pavement is use the Engine Degreaser (it did not take much to give a good spot to spin). ............. wheel .... 2 to 6 inch patch of spray .......... dry ........... (creap onto the patch, light breaks to stop, stomp on it, let off and go)

Most of the people with Lower Horse Power would do this due to they did not have the power to start off spining. One of them even had a GEO, it was funny to watch that thing do burn outs. And it was easy for the front wheel drives due to they just used the E-Break and could really get a good spin going.

Now mind you, this type of action does have its draw backs, its very damaging to the tires. And if you use too much its a pain if you dont burn it off the tires with a burn out due to it just wrecks your rubber. One guy tried Liquid Wrench, that was a nice fire. We had 1/2 shafts break, U-Joints fail, tires pop, just all sorts of normal things happen due to these cars/trucks where not made to do this.

Mind you the pro comp cars/trucks that do this are putting out 3 to 4 times the factory HP. The burn out area in a drag strip is supper smooth and wet to help get a good burn out. I also just had to tow a buddy home the other day due to they were doing just this, dry pavement burn outs to show off. They blew their trany, and I do mean BLEW it. That show off is going to cost them $120 for a trany kit and a full day to tear down and rebuild the trany (who know how many more parts in the trany got damaged, we'll know when we crack it open)