I am putting new drums, shoes, cylinders, and hardware kit on the rear of my 89 s10 blazer. While under the blazer doin a general inspection i noticed a hose that comes from the top of the rear end housing, the hose runs over to the driver side and has a screw stuck in it. Doesn't seem to have ever leaked or anythin from there. Any ideas where the hose should go? Also when I removed my pass. side drum I got a few drops of rear end fluid from where the axle goes in, is ts this a seal i should go ahead and replace. I never did notice it leaving any fluid on the pavement. Heres how I know I keep fluid in my rear end, the drain plug next to the rear end yoke was cobbled up all to hell by previous owner so I drilled a hole in the rear end cover and us an expansion plug to seal it, but i still check level monthly. If ya have an answer to getting the cobbled up plug out i would greatly appreciate it. Since fluid doesnt just run out, will the axle seal be OK till spring? I think its more than I can tackle. PLEASE ADVISE...As always thanx alot

 

first off, get that screw outta that hose-it's your breather hose to vent the diff. there's a plastic vent cap that goes on there (should be able to find it @ your local parts store (or just go to the dealer).

as for the axle seals, they're just as easy to do (IMO), and should be replaced before they start to leak more, and gum up your new rear brakes.

i was looking through my post for a link to someone else who did the seals/bearing on his '05 Jimmy (the diff's are he same), which was a good thread on what's inside a diff, and how to take out your axles. plus it has a lot of pic's for your to visually see/understand what's going on in there.

here's the link to it;

https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-generation-s-series-1995-2005-tech-41/2005-jimmy-rear-bearings-33728/

good luck.

 

Yeah, that hose is just the diff vent. It's possible that the bolt/screw he is talking about is the plastic vent cap.

The biggest problem that most have with replacing the axle seals is that there is a groove worn into the axle shaft. The problem solver seals will move the lip seal sealing surface to a fresh area on the axle shaft to solve that problem.

While you are there, replace the outer axle bearings at the same time.

 

The previous owner has really cobbled up my fill plug on my rear end housing next to the yoke. Nothing will get it out because its smooth and round. So he drilled a hole in the differential cover and plugged it. Is this sufficient? it doesnt leak and seems to be at the correct level. Short of replacing th rear end i dunno what to do. thanx jeff

 

thanx to all we'll do

 

I merged your other thread into this one considering you asked the same question again. If you do not get answers to all of the questions you ask, it is permissible to ask them again in the same thread. Starting a new thread asking the question again is against forum rules (double posting).

You can likely drill the plug and get an easy-out into it to remove it. You may have to heat it a bit to release it, but the drill and easy out should get the plug to come out. The plug in the rear diff cover should work provided it is in securely.

 

i had to do the same thing to diff cover, when i replaced the diff in my '84 Blazer. i just welded in a drain plug from a Sundance, ensuring it was in line with the old plug, since i didn't want to over fill the diff with gear oil. like Kyle said, as long as it seals up securely, it'll be fine.

 

can you fill the rear differential through the vent due to the bolt being stripped to fill it

 

yes. been there done that. you just never know the exact level, you just have to go by manufactures specs.

if your a good welder you can stick a bolt into that rounded up hole and weld it up, let it cool then heat it back up with the torch to break it free. done that to the biggest rustiest junks.

also that hole in the diff cover is fine. some dodges actually came like that. which is easy to fill up, problem is the rubber gets hard and leaks eventually