I've been searching through the forums and reading old threads about replacing motor mounts and am having some issues picking the right replacements.

Truck: 1994 S10 Blazer, Tahoe LT, 4WD, automatic trans, 160k miles, 2nd owner, original mounts as far as I know.

I recently replaced my water pump, remote oil filter lines, and power steering unit. This was the first time I had ever removed the fan shroud, and it seemed like no matter how much I checked the shroud for proper installation, the fan would rub against the shroud every time when I got everything put back together. Really annoying. It was worst when I back out of my driveway in the morning - I'd press the brake to change into drive and it would rub the worst. Then, once it drive, it was fine (much less rubbing). Anyway, it seems that the mounts are the culprit here.

Now, I'm hearing a "stuttering" at ~ 30-50 mph that seems to occur randomly. I don't think it is a fuel or oil pressure problem. It may be a vibration issue from worn out mounts. I will go grab a picture of the mounts tomorrow, but I'm pretty sure they're in rough shape.

Moving on: I have been looking through several older threads about changing my motor mounts and I think I've got the will to at least try it. I read that the Energy Suspension mounts for this truck are "the best". However, I'm not swapping a V8 in and I don't offroad at all. This truck is a daily driver of usually <10 pavement miles. I'm not sure if I really need these better mounts. On the other hand, I also read that it's worth the extra $ for these mounts because they're so much easier to install than OEMs. Ok, that sounds worth it to me. I see some people say "poly mounts" and some say "energy suspension mounts". Are they the same thing?

The OEM option for my local auto store is:
Anchor 2550 - Engine Mount | O'Reilly Auto Parts
and
Anchor 2549 - Engine Mount | O'Reilly Auto Parts

If I go with the ES mounts, I'd like to order them off amazon if possible. I use amazon a lot and have the Prime for free 2-day shipping. I did a search there and found this:

When I fill in my specs, it says: "This product fits this position on your 1994 Chevrolet S10 Blazer: Right"
I wonder: does that mean it fits on the "right" side only? Passenger? Is there a left/driver side mount? The OEMs are different part numbers, so maybe these are too? They are stocked by Energy Suspension, so I feel good about ordering them from here, but I want to make sure I order the right part(s).


Ok, that covers my main questions. Below are some more questions I'm wondering about while planning this replacement:
- Should I go ahead and replace the auto transmission mount as well? If I go for the ES trans mount, I think this is the right one, yes?


This is how I plan to do it. I haven't hashed everything out yet because it's late and cold and dark out right now and I'm not looking at pictures of the undercarriage at the moment.
1) Remove skid plate
2) Remove fan and belt ?
3) Remove upper shroud ?
4) Remove distributor cap and move out of the way
5) Place floor jack under the oil pan w/ filler wood to avoid denting pan badly
6) Jack motor to relieve weight
7) Pull mount pin to free the motor
8) Jack motor up some more
9) Do whatever it takes to get the old mounts out
10) Install new mounts
11) Release motor back down to reinstall pins
12) Release motor back to normal position


- I have access to a 1.5 ton floor jack and a couple jackstands. I do not have access to an engine lift, but I may have access to an old chain hoist. Would it be easier to take the hood off, chain the motor under the exhaust headers, and lift up instead?

- Some threads say it's easier to lift up one side of the engine at a time to get more clearance at the mount. I'm not sure if I should put the jack in the middle and lift the whole engine or not. Suggestions?

- Will I have to do the trans mount at the same time as well? If not, when doing the trans mount, will I have to lift the motor again anyway? Maybe it's easier to do motor and trans at the same time?

All suggestions welcome! Thanks!
I'll grab some pictures tomorrow to show the state of the mounts, in case anyone is interested.

 

no real opinion about what type of motor mounts to use. ive always used the cheapest stuff i can find as most of my s10s have always been old beaters or off road trucks. but as you said i always do one side at a time. just take the bolt out of one side and lift the motor up a few inches and change one side at a time. you can also loosen the transmission mount bolts to almost all the way off too so your not fighting that mount.

i recently did mine on my 1993 a few years ago and dont remember it being that big of a pain but mine has all the suspension ripped out in place of a k5 blazer axle so it was very roomy. i know doing these on the 95 and up are a pain in the butt.

you can change the transmount at a later time if you want. you just jack the back end of the transmission up after taking the bolts off

 

Thanks for the heads up! Do you know if I'll have to disconnect the drive shaft or anything? I've heard some say yes and others did not mention it.

 

you probably wont have too for the lifting purpose but you might have too just to give yourself some room to access the mount. like i said mines been modified so the driveshaft is out of the way period. if it has to come out its really not that big of a deal just a couple bolts

 

Hey, thanks for the help! I did the replacement yesterday and documented my adventure in a new thread: https://blazerforum.com/forum/1st-ge...res-%5D-88981/

Check it out! I took pictures!

 

I realize you've already done the deed and I'm going to check out your link next but I thought I'd add a helpful tip for anyone else who comes along that has never pulled a drive shaft for the purpose of getting it out of the way without replacing the U-joints.


When you get the U-bolts removed and the U-joint pulled free take a few seconds to wrap that rascal with electrical tape to keep the caps from falling off so you don't risk loosing the needle bearings out of any of the caps.