Rear Hatch Solenoid
#1
01-14-2023, 11:23 AM
Rear Hatch Solenoid
I looked around and didn't see this specific issue posted and solved so here's my story...
Rear hatch solenoid clicked but not enough to release the latch. I'm working solo so I don't have the luxury of saying, "hit it". Upon inspection, I noticed some play in the cable from the solenoid to the latch and wondered if that was the issue. I opened it up and pulled the solenoid out to investigate and found no adjustment for the cable but saw that I could modify the holes to remove the slack if I needed to. I brought a battery to the scene and hit the unit with power and ground via alligator clips and the solenoid yielded a strong crack and tug of the cable.
Put 'er all back together and all I got was weak tug from the button up front. Once again, I am solo so no helper pushing the button. Came back and attached power to the power lug with the alligator clips and ground to the mounting bolts and ca-rack, strong response and latch release. Moved the ground over the the grounding strap over on the left side of the gate, which grounds to the body right there and barely a thud. The grounding strap looked pretty bad and when I meddled with it, it broke in half. Replaced the grounding strap, hooked up the power and I'm back in business. Oh and I figure that the slack in the cable is built in so the solenoid can kind of get a run at pulling on the latch.
Rear hatch solenoid clicked but not enough to release the latch. I'm working solo so I don't have the luxury of saying, "hit it". Upon inspection, I noticed some play in the cable from the solenoid to the latch and wondered if that was the issue. I opened it up and pulled the solenoid out to investigate and found no adjustment for the cable but saw that I could modify the holes to remove the slack if I needed to. I brought a battery to the scene and hit the unit with power and ground via alligator clips and the solenoid yielded a strong crack and tug of the cable.
Put 'er all back together and all I got was weak tug from the button up front. Once again, I am solo so no helper pushing the button. Came back and attached power to the power lug with the alligator clips and ground to the mounting bolts and ca-rack, strong response and latch release. Moved the ground over the the grounding strap over on the left side of the gate, which grounds to the body right there and barely a thud. The grounding strap looked pretty bad and when I meddled with it, it broke in half. Replaced the grounding strap, hooked up the power and I'm back in business. Oh and I figure that the slack in the cable is built in so the solenoid can kind of get a run at pulling on the latch.
#2
01-14-2023, 05:41 PM
As I read your description I was wondering, "hmmm, I wonder if there is a bad ground limiting the current flow." Low and behold, that is what it turned out to be. This will be useful to someone in the future who has a similar problem.
My version of this was when I thought my driver door electronic lock mechanism was failing so I replaced it. Long story, short, it turned out to be the power wire to the door lock had been damaged in the past when someone tried to splice into the wires in the door jamb for I think a remote starter and had nicked the insulation. This caused corrosion to grow and eventually result in a low current flow to the lock solenoid.
My version of this was when I thought my driver door electronic lock mechanism was failing so I replaced it. Long story, short, it turned out to be the power wire to the door lock had been damaged in the past when someone tried to splice into the wires in the door jamb for I think a remote starter and had nicked the insulation. This caused corrosion to grow and eventually result in a low current flow to the lock solenoid.
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