Blazer Forum - Chevy Blazer Forums

Blazer Forum - Chevy Blazer Forums (https://blazerforum.com/forum/)
-   1st Generation S-series (1983-1994) Tech (https://blazerforum.com/forum/1st-generation-s-series-1983-1994-tech-40/)
-   -   replacement knuckles exist on a 4wd? (https://blazerforum.com/forum/1st-generation-s-series-1983-1994-tech-40/replacement-knuckles-exist-4wd-97875/)

kallen90 10-03-2018 03:20 PM

replacement knuckles exist on a 4wd?
 
I need a new one for the front left. I can't find any replacement knuckles for a 94 4wd s10 blazer. I can find 2wd all day long. Any help?

blazen_red_4x4 10-03-2018 08:51 PM

Why does it have to be "new"?

Check and local salvage yards for a used one?

The knuckle itself isn't something that typically goes bad, breaks, or bends, unless the vehicle is in some sort of accident or just out right abused... Ball joints, tie rod ends, and wheel bearings however, that's a whole separate story

kallen90 10-04-2018 11:35 AM

When I broke the torque on the break caliber bolt it brought the threads on the hole with it. Its a smooth hole, almost....

the brake caliber bolt would grab the threads without the spacer, once I put the spacer on, it wouldn't grab the threads and I wasn't able to get the top caliber bolt to stay.

I ground the spacer for the by about 1mm and it fits great now. I thought I was going to have to replace the knuckle since I couldn't get the bolt to grab. It isn't the best fix, but it works, I'd much rather have a properly threaded hole than a half assed one.

christine_208 10-04-2018 12:36 PM


Originally Posted by kallen90 (Post 696748)
When I broke the torque on the break caliber bolt it brought the threads on the hole with it. Its a smooth hole, almost....

the brake caliber bolt would grab the threads without the spacer, once I put the spacer on, it wouldn't grab the threads and I wasn't able to get the top caliber bolt to stay.

I ground the spacer for the by about 1mm and it fits great now. I thought I was going to have to replace the knuckle since I couldn't get the bolt to grab. It isn't the best fix, but it works, I'd much rather have a properly threaded hole than a half assed one.

If I understand you correctly, your fix does not sound very solid. As for used, instead of pulling the part yourself, I bet you could get a wrecking yard to pull one for you and even ship it. These parts do not go bad.If the knuckle is removed from a vehicle with all of the parts still on it, then all of the threads and machined surfaces should be in good shape.

P.S. Your spell checker made your post a funny read. LOL e.g. "break cailber" instead of "brake caliper." :)

kallen90 10-05-2018 09:43 AM

It might not be the best fix but it will work for a few weeks until I find a knuckle and replace all the brake components in the front (I just finished rebuilding the front end in terms of suspension and steering). I'm a full time college student, husband and worker, trying to find a used knuckle is a little lower on the list of priorities lol.

The bushing that goes over the bolt that installs into the brake caliper is about 3/4 of an inch, I could see from the the grime line that the caliper didn't slide over the entire bushing. I literately had to shave a hair off of that bushing the get the bolt in just enough to grab some threads. I was able to torque it, the caliper will slide a little closer to the bolt head but not anything noticeable.

Do you think I could pull my knuckles and take them to a machine shop and have them stake a threaded bearing in the knuckle? I don't think they could add metal to the hole and re thread it, there just isn't anything to work with in terms of re threading the hole on the knuckle.

Strangerock 10-05-2018 10:33 AM

A reliable fix would be a helicoil repair unless you can find a good used one.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:28 PM.


© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands