Is it a "sweet" smell like maple syrup?

 

I would definatly say it does have some kind of sweetness smell to it. There is no visible leakage in the cab tho.. So I am going to advance tomorrow to pick up the heater core.

Also Another question I have is about a pulley that has locked up(4.3 Cpfi vin w) This is not the exact diagram for the blazer. closest I could find




Does anyone know the name of this pulley or the part number I would need to fix it.. Thanks for all the help

 

Thats either an IDLER pulley or your TENSIONER pulley... Just tell the parts guy its the one under your AC compressor... If its an idler, it will be cheap, if its a tensioner then it comes on a spring loaded arm and will cost you a little more. If you feel around on the arm there is a square hole that a 3/8 rachet will fit in to take the tension off the belt so you can pop it off the pulleys easy

Starting on the top right going clockwise those would be

Alternator
Power Steering
Water pump
Crankshaft
Tensioner
Air Conditioning
Idler

 

ty for the reply ohsofly tat was very helpful

 

If you're sure ot's smoke you see I can tell you that I had the sane problem and my control switch was burnt up inside. You can buy them for about $10.00 or so. I pulled mine out and took it apart, polished up the burnt places, put it back together, installed it and ran it for about 2 or 3 tomes and then replaced it because it was smoking again. It's the Heater/AC switch (if yours has A/C). This is from the Rock Auto website. They are $12.19 + shipping. If you can find it local that would be faster.
ACDELCO Part # 1571490 {#16047877}
SWITCH,HTR & A/C CONT SEL
Here's the Rock Auto website. Go to Electrical Switches and Relays
https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raf...94%2BCHEVROLET
You have to be careful to get the thing synced with your controls. There is a little gear mechanism. There are also some sliders that you need to make sure stay in there. The job is really a piece of cake. You pull off the two ***** to the controls (pull hard), two screws on the bottom and then just wiggle and pull the assembly out. The worst part is probably disconnecting and connecting the connector to the switch. Flat blade screwdriver and duckbill pliers were my weapons of choice. You'll akso need a (I believe) 8 mm socket to get the screws loose to access the switch.

 

Good info will take it apart and give it a look in the am ty