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Trying to get my 88" S-10 Blazer road worthy

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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 11:40 PM
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Default Trying to get my 88" S-10 Blazer road worthy

Hey guys, Im new to the forum here and thought Id seek some help on my 88" Blazer.

So my Blazer has been sitting since 07 and just recently we put a new rear end in it with new rear shocks ETC, the old diff was squealing and the gears were VERY worn. I did a couple other things, Oil change, replaced the air cleaner ETC. Had her running good for a bit, then didn't start her up for a while and now shes running like ****. I crank her over and she sputters and backfires shuts off, then I crank it agian and she starts but I have to give her a bit of gas so she wont die, after about 5 minutes of that she will idle by herself fine. But if I shut her off she will not start again for a while then I go through the same thing. I have a new fuel filter that I have to install, but I doubt that will fix it. I'm thinking it needs injector work or maybe some new plugs? Anyone help and tell me how to fix it. 1 more thing, I used 10W 30 oil instead of the 5W 30 it asks for (it might be vice versa cant remember off the top of my head) because I had a problem with the oil gauge before and I thought a bit thicker oil would fix that, my Dad told me he used to put the thicker oil in it but I don't no if hes dreaming. Do you think the oil would do that?

Thanks for your help guys!

Forgot to mention that its the 2.8L FI V6
 
Old Jul 19, 2010 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by DoubleDouble
Hey guys, Im new to the forum here and thought Id seek some help on my 88" Blazer.

So my Blazer has been sitting since 07 and just recently we put a new rear end in it with new rear shocks ETC, the old diff was squealing and the gears were VERY worn. I did a couple other things, Oil change, replaced the air cleaner ETC. Had her running good for a bit, then didn't start her up for a while and now shes running like ****. I crank her over and she sputters and backfires shuts off, then I crank it agian and she starts but I have to give her a bit of gas so she wont die, after about 5 minutes of that she will idle by herself fine. But if I shut her off she will not start again for a while then I go through the same thing. I have a new fuel filter that I have to install, but I doubt that will fix it. I'm thinking it needs injector work or maybe some new plugs? Anyone help and tell me how to fix it. 1 more thing, I used 10W 30 oil instead of the 5W 30 it asks for (it might be vice versa cant remember off the top of my head) because I had a problem with the oil gauge before and I thought a bit thicker oil would fix that, my Dad told me he used to put the thicker oil in it but I don't no if hes dreaming. Do you think the oil would do that?

Thanks for your help guys!

Forgot to mention that its the 2.8L FI V6
thicker oil = better lube. if it sputters and backfires i would try plugs, but it might need injector work
 
Old Jul 19, 2010 | 12:46 PM
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ok cool, ill replace that fuel filter today and ill also check the plugs, im almost 80% sure it needs injector work though.
 
Old Jul 19, 2010 | 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by DoubleDouble
ok cool, ill replace that fuel filter today and ill also check the plugs, im almost 80% sure it needs injector work though.
plus it doesnt hurt to change the plugs =) might need new ones anyway
 
Old Jul 19, 2010 | 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by m3ch
thicker oil = better lube. if it sputters and backfires i would try plugs, but it might need injector work
Not entirely true. In days long forgotten machining tolerances weren't so tight and oil was crude (no pun intended). Todays engines are machined to tighter tolerances, and oil is highly regulated, refined, and specifically designed.

Fist thing I would do is a complete tune up. No doubt the inside of the cap and rotor looks like crap and is full of corrosion. New plugs, wires, cap/rotor, fuel pump, pvc, oil, oil filter, grease all the ball joints, check the tranny and diff fluids. More than likely you will need a brake job too, fronts for sure and maybe rears.

I would also drain the gas tank, fill it with new gas and some gas treatment.

Then take that beast out for a nice long drive to work the bugs out, literally work the bugs out.
 
Old Jul 19, 2010 | 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Hanr3
Not entirely true. In days long forgotten machining tolerances weren't so tight and oil was crude (no pun intended). Todays engines are machined to tighter tolerances, and oil is highly regulated, refined, and specifically designed.

Fist thing I would do is a complete tune up. No doubt the inside of the cap and rotor looks like crap and is full of corrosion. New plugs, wires, cap/rotor, fuel pump, pvc, oil, oil filter, grease all the ball joints, check the tranny and diff fluids. More than likely you will need a brake job too, fronts for sure and maybe rears.

I would also drain the gas tank, fill it with new gas and some gas treatment.

Then take that beast out for a nice long drive to work the bugs out, literally work the bugs out.
Ive already done a new oil filter/oil change, greased the joints and ive changed the diff fluids topped up the tranny fluid looked at the back drums they still look fine havent checked the fronts though, Ive already filled the tank with new gas (did that today about 1 hours ago )

And then were probably going to drive up to Hope which is about a 2-3 hour drive up the mountain.
 
Old Jul 20, 2010 | 01:20 AM
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You can buy injector kits at teh local A/P store. That and some Berryman's B-12 to clean them up and you'll have that issue taken care of. If the injectors spray OK with the engine running then they probably are OK. They aren't that hard to take apart and clean up. Just put new seals in them when you put them back together. It sounds like you've convinced yourself that they need work. It can't hurt.
 
Old Jul 20, 2010 | 01:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Gimpy Blazer
You can buy injector kits at teh local A/P store. That and some Berryman's B-12 to clean them up and you'll have that issue taken care of. If the injectors spray OK with the engine running then they probably are OK. They aren't that hard to take apart and clean up. Just put new seals in them when you put them back together. It sounds like you've convinced yourself that they need work. It can't hurt.
I was looking at them earlier today and I adjusted them a bit and the engine seems to be running fine now but the Check Engine Light is still on. We will see how shes running tomorrow. I think im going to do some work on them no matter what anyway.
 
Old Jul 21, 2010 | 12:28 AM
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If the gas had been in the tank since '07 you probably just had bad gas causing the truck to run poorly. Injectors may have some varnish in them as well. Keep running fresh gas through it, and maybe some injecter cleaner.
 
Old Jul 21, 2010 | 09:41 PM
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Get the CEL code read.

I agree, run a ton of fuel cleaner through it.
Actually run 90+ octane with 10% ethanol. The ethanol will clean out the fuel system.
 



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