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Two Codes Popped Up...

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  #21  
Old 02-10-2012, 01:02 AM
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  • Style / Body: SUV 4D
  • Engine: 4.3L V6 CPI
  • Country of Assembly: United States
  • Model: S10 Blazer Sport / Tahoe / Tahoe LT

Sorry for my attitude.

4.3l Vortec
 

Last edited by choover82; 02-10-2012 at 01:30 AM.
  #22  
Old 02-10-2012, 07:59 PM
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ok if your not getting spark from the coil then its gotta be the ignition control module on the distributor. almost certain. sometimes before the completly fail when the get warm and running for a while it will die and not start back up untill its cooled down. the module is under the cap held in by 2 torx screws. its the thing that the two wiring harnesses go into. had the same problem with a chevy 1500. had not spark and no fuel. its cause the ignition control module controls both the injectors and the coil. if its not working then you wont have fuel or spark.
 
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Old 02-11-2012, 10:39 AM
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Yep. Napa Joe of Estherville told me if Im not gettin spark, then next in line would be the ignition control box...(ecu). Problem is, its $130 and I want to be %100 sure its what it is before buying that...I guess money is not a problem today as I am headed to get my taxes done.

(word of advise...dont stay up til 6am knowing you have a 10:30am appointment)
 
  #24  
Old 02-12-2012, 08:48 PM
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its ICM not ecu. the ecu is the computer. this is what you probally need Duralast/Ignition Control Module (DR140) | 1994 Chevrolet S10 Blazer 4WD 6 Cylinders W 4.3L CPI | AutoZone.com_

Ignition control module only 50 bucks
 
  #25  
Old 02-13-2012, 03:53 AM
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and where is this on the truck?

Originally Posted by Blasir
Most of the time the ICM doesn't go bad all at once. It usually will not start after the car/truck is at normal running temperature and is shut off. After it cools down it will start and so on and so on. I'm betting it's not your problem.

I dont think its the icm.

Originally Posted by bam_9_9_9
ok if your not getting spark from the coil then its gotta be the ignition control module on the distributor. almost certain. sometimes before the completly fail when the get warm and running for a while it will die and not start back up untill its cooled down. the module is under the cap held in by 2 torx screws. its the thing that the two wiring harnesses go into. had the same problem with a chevy 1500. had not spark and no fuel. its cause the ignition control module controls both the injectors and the coil. if its not working then you wont have fuel or spark.

I should read more closely....completely skipped over what you said...sorry about that...ill look into this more today before work....so its safe to say my ecu is good?

Last edited by swartlkk; Today at 06:20 AM. Reason: *Combining Consecutive Posts* - Please use the edit function to add additional information in your post if another member has yet to respond. Rules are rules.
(sorry, i forgot)
 

Last edited by choover82; 02-13-2012 at 12:13 PM. Reason: *Combining Consecutive Posts* - Please use the edit function to add additional information in your post if another member has yet to respond. Rules are rules.
  #26  
Old 02-14-2012, 10:20 PM
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its on the distributor under the cap with two wire connectors going into it. you dont have to pull the distributor out to replace it. i really dont think the computer is the problem. but if your not getting spark at the coil. and the coil is new then i would deffiantly say its the ignition control module. ICM good luck
 
  #27  
Old 02-15-2012, 05:31 PM
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I think I figured it out. Tested the ICM at napa, tested good 5 times. Cleaned off the contacts, and the ground body. Replaced back onto dizzy. Lost the screw that holds the cap down, but found it and got that secured. Made sure everything was hooked back up, turned key....and....she started!

Hasnt had any problems since then...starts every time and runs even better then before.

Thanks to all who posted suggestions to what could be the problem, just happens to be bad ground points.
 
  #28  
Old 02-15-2012, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by choover82
I think I figured it out. Tested the ICM at napa, tested good 5 times. Cleaned off the contacts, and the ground body. Replaced back onto dizzy. Lost the screw that holds the cap down, but found it and got that secured. Made sure everything was hooked back up, turned key....and....she started!

Hasnt had any problems since then...starts every time and runs even better then before.

Thanks to all who posted suggestions to what could be the problem, just happens to be bad ground points.
Glad you got it running, so are you keeping it? Haha
 
  #29  
Old 02-15-2012, 10:47 PM
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Yea, Im getting train horns for it next week. A guy who works at Napa will sell me the 1.5 gal tank/compressor/horns for $25. Not sure I can beat that!

Still need to dig into the plenuim to check for fuel leak. Also need to hook scanner up to check for more codes. The ones I have on first post havent came back that I know of. But then again, Ive had the computer out of the vehicle for about 2 weeks.

Would like to know if switching the ignition coil with a better brand would actually do anything.

Also, what is the easiest way to get the computer back under the dash? I have it hooked back up, but its kinda hanging in there...and want it back in. I see there is a brace for it, just havent figured out how to get it back in, besides, not enough room to see where its going (have removed speaker from dash to help guide it in).
 
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