Vacuum/Brake/Idle Question
#1
Vacuum/Brake/Idle Question
1991 s-10 Blazer 4.3L
Just noticed that while in Park and engine at idle, when I mash down the brake peddle the engine idle picks up and I hear what sounds like a vacuum leak behind the steering wheel in the dash.I have notice that sometimes my brake peddle is hard also. I do have good brakes.
Vacuum Leak Perhaps? Brake Booster going out?
What do you guys think?
Thanks!
Just noticed that while in Park and engine at idle, when I mash down the brake peddle the engine idle picks up and I hear what sounds like a vacuum leak behind the steering wheel in the dash.I have notice that sometimes my brake peddle is hard also. I do have good brakes.
Vacuum Leak Perhaps? Brake Booster going out?
What do you guys think?
Thanks!
#2
RE: Vacuum/Brake/Idle Question
think brake booster. jp[:-]
#3
RE: Vacuum/Brake/Idle Question
your booster may be going or it could be a leak check for leaks first then go from there
#4
RE: Vacuum/Brake/Idle Question
Mine is doing the EXACT same thing. I narrowed it down to the booster but I'm reinvestigating today.
#5
RE: Vacuum/Brake/Idle Question
Yep its the Booster..........I have never replaced one before...Does anyone have any tips of what to look for?
I imagine.First disconnect the Master Cylinder....then probably the nuts inside the firewall and the brake pedal........disconnect vacuum hose and lift out.
Does that sound about right? I'm guessing 2 hours. Any special tools needed???
Thanks
I imagine.First disconnect the Master Cylinder....then probably the nuts inside the firewall and the brake pedal........disconnect vacuum hose and lift out.
Does that sound about right? I'm guessing 2 hours. Any special tools needed???
Thanks
#6
RE: Vacuum/Brake/Idle Question
That's pretty much it. Only thing I would say to do different is the order. [/align][/align]vac line-> master cyl-> pedal connection-> inside 2 bolts. rinse, lather, repeat. [/align][/align]And thats just so you don't have to deal with it flopping around while your trying to undo connections and such. 2 hours sounds about right too. [/align]
#7
RE: Vacuum/Brake/Idle Question
I'm picking a new one up tomorrow from the pick n pull. $13 half price :]
Not looking forward to the four bolts on the firewall, the top two are a pain it looks like.
Deep sockets and an extension should take care of it nicely.
Not looking forward to the four bolts on the firewall, the top two are a pain it looks like.
Deep sockets and an extension should take care of it nicely.
#8
RE: Vacuum/Brake/Idle Question
Let me know how it goes ATP....I will not be able to get to mine until probably the weekend.
#9
RE: Vacuum/Brake/Idle Question
Well I tried getting my leaking booster off before I went to the yard, I cannot for the life of me figure out how to get the top two firewall nuts off without removing most of the dash area around them. I think I'm going to have the family mechanic assist me because Im probably an idiot and missing some easy technique. UGH.
rdhack: You will probably beat me to the punch so YOU let me know how it goes haha.
rdhack: You will probably beat me to the punch so YOU let me know how it goes haha.
#10
RE: Vacuum/Brake/Idle Question
Update:
Got the right tools for booster removal...
15mm Deep socket and regular socket (Booster nuts/master cylinder nuts and push rod bolt)
Extension
Socket Wrench
Phillips Screwdriver (for dash crap)
Adjustable crescent wrench (used on push rod)
I was working in the dark with a flashlight and managed to get all bolts but one off haha.
What I did:
[ul][*]Removed all drivers side kick panels[*]moved hood release thing[*]removed the lower dash panel[*]removed the master cylinder nuts[*]removed bottom left nut on booster from the interior[*]then the top left nut (moved hood release helped)[*]then realized i forgot to unhook the brake pedal from the push rod, so unhooked it and used a wire to pull the pedal out of my way[*]then the top right nut[/ul]
And now I'm stuck on the bottom right. I figured out how to get it off though. I have to drop my steering column to get to it easily. Me being an idiot, I did not disconnect the steering so when I tried to drop the column I was wondering why it wouldnt go down easily so I probably bent the shaft, but I'm doing it the non-idiot way tomorrow in the day light by unhooking the linkage so I can drop the column and get that damn nut off. Also I can't pull the master cylinder off the booster because the steel lines to my ABS are all complicated so that just adds to the annoyance. I don't want to unhook the lines to the master cylinder!
I'll keep y'all posted.
Got the right tools for booster removal...
15mm Deep socket and regular socket (Booster nuts/master cylinder nuts and push rod bolt)
Extension
Socket Wrench
Phillips Screwdriver (for dash crap)
Adjustable crescent wrench (used on push rod)
I was working in the dark with a flashlight and managed to get all bolts but one off haha.
What I did:
[ul][*]Removed all drivers side kick panels[*]moved hood release thing[*]removed the lower dash panel[*]removed the master cylinder nuts[*]removed bottom left nut on booster from the interior[*]then the top left nut (moved hood release helped)[*]then realized i forgot to unhook the brake pedal from the push rod, so unhooked it and used a wire to pull the pedal out of my way[*]then the top right nut[/ul]
And now I'm stuck on the bottom right. I figured out how to get it off though. I have to drop my steering column to get to it easily. Me being an idiot, I did not disconnect the steering so when I tried to drop the column I was wondering why it wouldnt go down easily so I probably bent the shaft, but I'm doing it the non-idiot way tomorrow in the day light by unhooking the linkage so I can drop the column and get that damn nut off. Also I can't pull the master cylinder off the booster because the steel lines to my ABS are all complicated so that just adds to the annoyance. I don't want to unhook the lines to the master cylinder!
I'll keep y'all posted.