2001 Blazer 2nd trans blown in 152k miles
#1
I just picked up a 2001 Blazer w/152k. Motor seems to run good, could use some fresh fuel. It has been sitting since 2010.
When I first start it up the trans works. After about 10 mins the trans slips and feels like it's in neutral no R or D . Got it into the garage and drained the fluid, it looks like chocolate milk, but it still feels like oil (not real thick). No metal pieces.
Gonna drop the pan and see what that looks like.
Check for codes, got a few ABS codes but no powertrain codes.
What do you guys think, worth fixing? It's not in bad shape the PO just did not want to shell out another 3k for another trans so she let it go cheap.
Thanks guys
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When I first start it up the trans works. After about 10 mins the trans slips and feels like it's in neutral no R or D . Got it into the garage and drained the fluid, it looks like chocolate milk, but it still feels like oil (not real thick). No metal pieces.
Gonna drop the pan and see what that looks like.
Check for codes, got a few ABS codes but no powertrain codes.
What do you guys think, worth fixing? It's not in bad shape the PO just did not want to shell out another 3k for another trans so she let it go cheap.
Thanks guys
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#2
That doesn't look good at all. Hopefully the clutches aren't gone. Dropping the pan will tell the tale. The magnet in the pan will capture all of the metal bits from the clutches if there is any, but the organic matter from the clutches will be inside the filter. You might want to dissect the filter as well just to see how much junk is in there.
Hopefully all it needs is a new filter and fresh oil, but the only thing that can clog a transmission filter is bits of the transmission itself as it is a sealed system.
Hopefully all it needs is a new filter and fresh oil, but the only thing that can clog a transmission filter is bits of the transmission itself as it is a sealed system.
#3
I am most concerned about what caused it to get like this. This is the 2nd trans for this trk. I don't mind putting $$ into a trans but I don't want it to do this again in 50k or so. Gonna try and blow out the cooler lines, maybe it was not getting sufficient cooling. Any other ideas? Electronics problem maybe? I did scan it and got no powertrain codes.
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#4
oThat doesn't look too bad as far as what's on the magnet as well as what the filter looks like. If there were large chunks on either, then I would be worried.
Sounds like you could have a problem with the pump or something in the pressure control circuit (hydraulic circuit). Getting a gauge on the test port would be high on my list of things to do once you get it filled back up. The test port is located on the driver side of the transmission above the shift position switch and can be fun to get at.
If you have some time and want to read about what goes on in the 4L60E, CLICK HERE for the 4L60E Tech Guide provided by ExtremeAutomatics.com. Line pressures can be found elsewhere online.
Sounds like you could have a problem with the pump or something in the pressure control circuit (hydraulic circuit). Getting a gauge on the test port would be high on my list of things to do once you get it filled back up. The test port is located on the driver side of the transmission above the shift position switch and can be fun to get at.
If you have some time and want to read about what goes on in the 4L60E, CLICK HERE for the 4L60E Tech Guide provided by ExtremeAutomatics.com. Line pressures can be found elsewhere online.
#5
oThat doesn't look too bad as far as what's on the magnet as well as what the filter looks like. If there were large chunks on either, then I would be worried.
Sounds like you could have a problem with the pump or something in the pressure control circuit (hydraulic circuit). Getting a gauge on the test port would be high on my list of things to do once you get it filled back up. The test port is located on the driver side of the transmission above the shift position switch and can be fun to get at.
If you have some time and want to read about what goes on in the 4L60E, CLICK HERE for the 4L60E Tech Guide provided by ExtremeAutomatics.com. Line pressures can be found elsewhere online.
Sounds like you could have a problem with the pump or something in the pressure control circuit (hydraulic circuit). Getting a gauge on the test port would be high on my list of things to do once you get it filled back up. The test port is located on the driver side of the transmission above the shift position switch and can be fun to get at.
If you have some time and want to read about what goes on in the 4L60E, CLICK HERE for the 4L60E Tech Guide provided by ExtremeAutomatics.com. Line pressures can be found elsewhere online.
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#6
Update
Got a gauge on the trans. I am getting about 60psi at idle in park and about 110psi in rev. When I am in park and I give it some throttle quick it jumps up. Not sure if it supposed to do this because it doesn't do it all the time.
Gonna try and drive it around and see what it does.
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Gonna try and drive it around and see what it does.
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#7
Where do I go from here?
I got the gauge on the trans line pressure port. I am getting about 60psi in park and about 120psi in REV. Not sure what I really should be getting.
You think I should just replace the trans? I can get one used but don't trust it will be in good derivable condition.
I can get a rebuilt one at twice the cost or better.
I can take it apart and rebuild myself. What do you think I should replace? Does the torque converter need replaced, how do I tell. What about the pump? The clutch packs I would replace, how about the solenoids, some of them are known to fail or stick?
I am gonna take it for a ride and see if it goes through all it's gears and post back.
Thanks guys
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You think I should just replace the trans? I can get one used but don't trust it will be in good derivable condition.
I can get a rebuilt one at twice the cost or better.
I can take it apart and rebuild myself. What do you think I should replace? Does the torque converter need replaced, how do I tell. What about the pump? The clutch packs I would replace, how about the solenoids, some of them are known to fail or stick?
I am gonna take it for a ride and see if it goes through all it's gears and post back.
Thanks guys
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#8
If you're wanting to get a reman trans for it I got a hell of a deal at RockAuto on an ETE reman trans for my '01 Jimmy for $1,100. There's a $350 core charge and it only costs $150 shipping. That's shipping both ways, the reman to you and the old trans back to them. They also offer a 3 year unlimited mileage warranty.
I think the site says it comes from Transmission Authority, but ultimately it was sourced from ETE.
FWIW and my measly .02
I think the site says it comes from Transmission Authority, but ultimately it was sourced from ETE.
FWIW and my measly .02
#10
I have a 2000 LT Blazer 4x4 4.3 with 106K on it...I change the tranny fluid and filter ever 50K and it runs like a new one...I found by the time 50k was up on my Blazer Tranny the fluid and filter were pretty dirty....So I'm pretty well lock in at 50k for a fluid and filter change...