My son and I inherited a project; 1989 Jeep Wrangler with a 2002 S10 Blazer Engine/Tranny.....hence the username "Bleep". Yes, we've had some bleep moments. The vehicle sat for 15 years and we're working through the issues related to the long storage period. We purchased an AC Delco 217-3028 spider assembly from Amazon, but it did not come with instructions. I can probably figure it out, but would like to have the instructions just to make sure I don't overlook something.

I checked for threads on the subject, but did not find. Any help is appreciated.

 

Try this, 3rd page has a great link. Going to replace the lower intake gasket as well aren't you?????

https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...acement-98379/

 

Great, thanks. I wasn't planning on doing the lower, but at this point it makes sense. Is there a preferred brand and part number?

Thanks again

 

Check out the following for the lower intake manifold (LIM) gaskets: Fel-Pro MS 98002 T. The Fel-Pro website should be able to confirm the part number

What you want are the LIM gaskets with the metal carrier/frame. Also note that people are saying that the RTV that comes with the gasket kit is not very good and it is best to use good quality name-branded RTV sealant instead.

 

Christine gave you the brand/part number to use for the LIM gaskets. It's worth mentioning that bolt torque is critical on the LIM. That means clean all the bolt threads with a wire brush/drill. Run tap through all the bolt holes. Dig the junk out of the bottom of blind holes with a little screwdriver. Use liquid teflon sealer made for head bolts. Make or buy studs to locate during installation if you really want to be fancy. Use a real inch.lb torque wrench (not ft lb) in correct sequence. Harbor Freight clickers are quite reasonable. Let sit overnight and re-torque in sequence again. Be careful to not get any wires at the back of the heads pinched underneath the intake manifold. Screw this up and you will likely get coolant in your oil - not good for engine bearings. Not replace the LIM gaskets and you will most likely eventually get coolant in your oil - again, not good for engine bearings. Both are facts all 4.3 owners should keep in mind.

My experience is that RTV that comes with FelPro set is just fine, but if you don't like it then use something else - but in either case make sure both metal surfaces are absolutely clean and dry (carb or brake cleaner) with zero oil film.

You can use these instructions for the MPFI spider install: https://static.summitracing.com/glob.../smp-fj503.pdf #3/#1 routing is the same for AC/Delco and the Standard. AC/Delco comes with the bracket.

 

Thanks Les and Christine. I ordered the Felpro ES72224 bolt set, which I think are pre-sealed. Are they sufficient as-is? Or, will I need to add more sealant?

Thanks again for the tips. I'll post progress.

 

The Felpro bolts are good as-is - they have the sealer on them.

 

And something I wish I had done was cut off the heads of 4 of the old bolts and then loosely thread them in to the heads to use as guide-pins for lowering the intake in place.

Of course, if you do this, make sure they are not screwed in so far that you cannot get them out with the intake manifold in place.

 

Thanks for the tips!

Before I started on the manifold I decided to do some more troubleshooting on the fuel pressure. May assumption was that the issue was in the plenum, because the fuel pump is new and the service port pressure was under 20psi. So, to rule out the fuel pump, (even though it's new from Chevrolet dealer) I tested at the fuel filter outlet and reading was 12psi...…….not good. I thought maybe the fuel filter is clogged; after all the project sat for 15 years and the after market (Aero) tank was a complete disaster inside. I tested at the filter supply line and the reading was the same; 12psi. I checked voltage at the battery and harness plug at fuel pump. Both readings are 12.45V.

Before I installed the new pump and strainer, the tank was chemically cleaned and epoxy coated (internal) at a radiator shop. The inside of the tank is like new.

Since the tank is aftermarket (with clamp ring style fuel pump module) it does not accept the MU1755 module, so I purchased the pump and strainer only from Chevrolet. The pump is stamped 2532G072 and GM part number on invoice is 25168719.

Is there a way to test the check valve to make sure it's not stuck open? The tank is dropped and module is on the bench.

And, of course, one question is.....do I have the correct pump? The one that will generate 100PSI.

I am so glad I found this forum and I really appreciate the help.

 

Guess I'm just old - Maybe just done too many intakes and such in my life time - Or maybe I'm just darn lucky but I never had the need nor had any problem doing installs without them