I wasn't in the mood to remove the splash guard today plus I'm by myself but I have some movement on both wheels only at the 3 and 9 position. I can see the tie rod move in and out slightly on both sides but the outer tie rod ends seem firm. Is it odd that both inter tie rod ends are loose or is it most likely the pitman arm? Can both inner/outer tie rods and the pitman arm be changed without taking the wheel hubs off? I know I should have done everything when I changed the wheel bearings but I'm lazy. The ball joints look OK but being almost 12 years old it might be fun to replace those too.

 

ball joints are riveted. they are fun.

yes, but steering box needs to be pulled to change pitman arm.

idler arm is the most common to go(passanger side, similar to a pitman arm but it's bolted to the frame, check for up and down movement in it)

 

Thanks ,I'm thinking about saving the ball joints for the next time I do the wheel bearings....I hate taking the wheels off to change something else. I've never had to mess with suspension parts. I'm using the following diagram to see how it goes together...do you have anything better?

http://www.gmpartsgiant.com/componen...m50t10506.html

Looking at the diagram it appears that if just one tie rod end is loose then both wheels can wiggle...am I wrong? Same thing with the idler arm.

 

nope. but that diagram makes it look more complicated then it really is. if/when you replace tie rod ends, count the treads(how many turns it takes to get it off) and put the new ones on the same. should be good enough to get you to an alignment shop.

yours being a 99 I don't think you will have the steering damper(the shock in the diagram) but you might.

the joint on the idler arm closest to where 30 is marked, that is the one that is known for becoming 'sloppy'

I would suggest replacing everything, like everyone says, if one thing is gone, everything else isn't far behind.
leaving a joint that is worn cause cause premature failure to the new parts as well.