1995 4.3 rough idle/low RPM
#21
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Are you always this negative or just OCD with vehicle repairs? Sometimes you just have to have faith there will be an exception to the normal failure.
If it happens anytime soon you'll be the first to hear that you were right.
If it happens anytime soon you'll be the first to hear that you were right.
#22
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![](https://blazerforum.com/forum/attachments/2nd-generation-s-series-1995-2005-tech-41/23721-1995-4-3-rough-idle-low-rpm-cdoocd_zps2171bc5b.jpg?dateline=1419792746)
I suppose OCD with repairs would be a fairly accurate statement
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Last edited by Captain Hook; 12-28-2014 at 12:52 PM.
#24
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Took it to my cousins shop just in case. Neither a Tech2 or Snap On scanners had an option for CKP variance learn. So, sorry but that may be a +96 thing.
Looks like not worrying turned out to be a win.
Still has what sounds like an occasional mis but I have yet to change plug wires since I bought it. It's on the list for spring though.
Looks like not worrying turned out to be a win.
Still has what sounds like an occasional mis but I have yet to change plug wires since I bought it. It's on the list for spring though.
Last edited by TZFBird; 12-31-2014 at 04:31 PM.
#25
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If the engine has a crankshaft position sensor, it needs the relearn done. Tech2 is a dealer issue tool. If they have the necessary software installed on it, the relearn is in the scanner, guaranteed. Are they aware yours requires a different protocol to communicate with the network? Your PCM is a transition between OBDI and OBDII, it was only used for part of 1995. It has its own unique protocol.
#26
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Both scanners connected but when going through the menus there was no option for it when there normally would have been. I'm not saying he knows 100% what he's doing but when I asked about doing it he pretty much told me word for word what has been written in every post on here about doing the relearn.
I guess since it's going to be 50 this weekend opposed to -4 like it was this morning I'm going to look into the high fuel pressure. So far it takes a while to warm up now and sounds like it's rich. It develops a stumble at idle and hardly starts once warm until I give it some throttle to clear the extra fuel out. Then it runs fine until it idles for a few minutes and repeats the stumble.
Considering I did not have high fuel pressure before the O-ring problem I'm going to assume the return line is fine. I've decided I will start by pulling the upper manifold and adjusting the pressure regulator to bring the supply pressure down. I noticed it had a torx on the end so it looked like it was somewhat adjustable. Manybe since I got the Dorman it's just set incorrectly. The only other thing that could have happened is the O-ring got messed up again and is restricting the return from the regulator. Highly doubtful though.
I'll mess with the regulator and see what happens. Worst case scenario I have to get another.
I mainly want to get this fixed because it takes twice as long to warm up now as it did before. It's amazing how much of an effect AFR has on engine temp. I could let it run 5 minutes before and it would start reading on the gauge. Now I let it run 10 minutes and it's just starting to blow warm air.
I guess since it's going to be 50 this weekend opposed to -4 like it was this morning I'm going to look into the high fuel pressure. So far it takes a while to warm up now and sounds like it's rich. It develops a stumble at idle and hardly starts once warm until I give it some throttle to clear the extra fuel out. Then it runs fine until it idles for a few minutes and repeats the stumble.
Considering I did not have high fuel pressure before the O-ring problem I'm going to assume the return line is fine. I've decided I will start by pulling the upper manifold and adjusting the pressure regulator to bring the supply pressure down. I noticed it had a torx on the end so it looked like it was somewhat adjustable. Manybe since I got the Dorman it's just set incorrectly. The only other thing that could have happened is the O-ring got messed up again and is restricting the return from the regulator. Highly doubtful though.
I'll mess with the regulator and see what happens. Worst case scenario I have to get another.
I mainly want to get this fixed because it takes twice as long to warm up now as it did before. It's amazing how much of an effect AFR has on engine temp. I could let it run 5 minutes before and it would start reading on the gauge. Now I let it run 10 minutes and it's just starting to blow warm air.
Last edited by TZFBird; 01-13-2015 at 09:46 AM.
#27
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A rich fuel mixture will cause coolant temp to be lower, guaranteed. Just as a lean mixture will cause temp to rise.
Check the O ring first, it's not recommended to adjust the regulator. If the O ring is causing a restriction, adjusting the regulator is not fixing the root csuse. You might be able to adjust it down so it's within spec at idle, but at WOT pressure & volume will be too low.
Check the O ring first, it's not recommended to adjust the regulator. If the O ring is causing a restriction, adjusting the regulator is not fixing the root csuse. You might be able to adjust it down so it's within spec at idle, but at WOT pressure & volume will be too low.
#28
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I suppose I can do the whole return line test and see which side of the regulator the problem is on. All the old O-ring came out except for the small piece that had been cut which was on the supply side caught by the screen.
I wanted to get away from the 4.3 but there's a '96 4wd extended cab S10 with a flatbed for $2200. Has 200K miles but looks like it's in good shape from the pictures. I'm hoping to talk the wife into the half hour drive to go check it out. It can't be any worse than what I'm dealing with right now.
I wanted to get away from the 4.3 but there's a '96 4wd extended cab S10 with a flatbed for $2200. Has 200K miles but looks like it's in good shape from the pictures. I'm hoping to talk the wife into the half hour drive to go check it out. It can't be any worse than what I'm dealing with right now.
#29
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Wouldn't it be my luck I forgot to connect the vacuum line for the EVAP to the intake. Runs probably the best it ever has now. I checked fuel pressure just for kicks and it was 65. It's a H.F. gauge so it could be +/- a few pounds.