Did this year of vehicle have the famous ignition switch issues? I never dealt with one this old. Oldest Ive had was 97.

 

95 ignition switch issues? hmm cant say that it really rings a bell, bout the worst for 95s i heard is the cpi's going bad, im not the expert to ask, but like i said it doesnt really ring a bell with me

 

I was actually kinda asking everyone else that is participating in this discussion. Certian year blazers had quirky ignitions switches and multi-function switches that would make your truck act as if its possesed. Im sorry about getting short with you, but remember a parts guys job is to sell parts. I garage guys job is to fix your truck. They both want your money. When I worked at a gas station, the boss told me "Son, the customer is always right....If he tells you his car needs a battery, replace his battery. If he thinks it needs shocks, replace his shocks. Whether he needs them or not!" You say the garage guys are treating you pretty good. Sure they are! Youre spending money there and you keep coming back! But guess what... the truck still isnt fixed. I just find it suspicous. Thats all.

Referencing the ECM, I MAY be wrong. Lord knows Ive been wrong plenty of times. But i have NEVER replaced an ECM. As far as im concerned its one of the most reliable pieces on the truck. I am not saying they dont fail, but they generally dont get grumpy and kinda fail like the parts guy said. Its like a light bulb. it either works or it doesnt. That is my theory on life. Im done venting. I just wanted you to know where i was coming from when i reply sometimes. You say youre out of work. That really sucks i feel for you. I especially feel for you that you have spent gadzooks of money and still own the problem. If I can help I will. Good luck.

 

i completely understand your POV, and i assure you that i took none of it as you being short with me, but for the record i want to clear something up a bit, i am NOT repetedly spending money at the shop, i do ALL my own resaerch(online, at shops, on this forum and repair manuals) before i replace anything and i do 80percent of my own work(most sensor replacements, tune ups, intake, welded and built complete exhaust from the manifolds back, body work, almost anything i believe i wont screw up myself and can physically do alone in a carport)not only because it saves ALOT of money but i deeply enjoy working on vehicles and the learning exsperience. The only issue regarding the trucks current problem that i had the shop do was the IAC valve in the fall last year and earlyer this spring my new CPI that i bought and asked them to install(so all i paid for that was labor) and that was my own choice, while i had the money i wanted to take care of the worst case/most exspensive part that logically made sense to my problem, and keep in mind it did smooth things out and help a bit, they test drive if for me, talk to me about things that it could be so that i could try looking into myself, and scan it for free for me, thats what i ment by they are treating me pretty good, they are NOT constantly getting my money, so being that they, and myself to this point, could not isolate the issue i joined this forum of fellow blazer owners to seek out help and advice(which i am ever so greatful for everything i have gotten from all of you on this thread) because i am only 22 have only had 2 vehicles that i ever got to in depth work on(my blazer and 87 grand wagoneer that currently needs alot of money sank into it just to put it on the road) and i am (was) a fire sprinkler fitter not a mechanic that is why i may ask some "dumb" questions, because i am still in the process of learning ALOT regarding these vehicles. If its ok with everyone on this forum i will continue to probably ask stupid questions untill i have this issue fixed and i PROMISE when it is solved everyone here will know almost as soon as i do because if my problems can lead to someone elses being solved then hopefully i would have saved someone the amount of stress that ive been dealing with. Will keep everyone updated, thanks from the heart i really mean it to everyone who has who has helped and supported me in these puzzles we call blazers lol

 

Thank you for clearing things up a bit. I know alot more about the relationship between you and the garage. I just hate seeing people being taken advantage of. It seems like you have a good head on you. I just ask that you dont fall into the same trap many people do of throwing parts at a problem hoping they accidently fix it.

Sprinkler systems huh? Im responsible for 11 Viking fire cycle III at my facility.

I have a feeling that youre going to find the problem and its going to be so simple youre going to smack yourself in the forehead. Good Luck!

 

ok well swartlkk sheaded some light on my situation here a few posts ago, brings me to another dumb question, as i stated engine off, key on, i have no voltage to the evap purge solenoid valve when i should be reading battery voltage, now as swartlkk said it could be a bad wire(if i translated him right lol), and as other research showed it could be a bad evap control circuit in the PCM, before i go dropping 60 bucks on a pcm, how would i replace the wiring hook up to the purge valve? i cant quite see where it goes, is it like a pigtail i can replace, or do i have to trace 2 indivitual wires all the way back to the pcm, also while checking my grounds( im kinda new to using a multimeter, just got my 1st use with it few weeks ago) i got no resistence on the green/white wire either, and how would i test my evap control circuit in the pcm? and my scanner should be showing up in the mail sometime today as well, so hopefully that will help, and just out of curriosity, could this particular problem cause my stall/surging no start after stall issues? or am i in a whole different ball park? just wondering

 

The PCM has nothing to do with the +12V feed to the valve as I have already stated.

 

hmmm well ok i must have mis-inturprited something somewhere, so what bout my other questions? how would i go about replacing the wiring? and could it lead to any of my problems?

ok got my scanner today here are the resualts from my live data feed after the truck was warmed up, does anything seem out of the normal(the vehicle was not messing up at the time and all this is idle only while in park)

Codes Present:No
4wd Mode: On(idk why it said that, i have a manual transfer case and it was in 2wd the whole time, and i can tell no its not in 4wd when im driving)
Ac Clutch:Off
Ac Enabled:On(i did not have the ac on)
Ac Request:Off
Baro("HG):29.54
Baro(V):4.76
Battery Voltage13.8)
LT Fuel Trim:116(i dont know what this and the next 2 mean)
LT Fuel TR CL:16
LT Fuel TR EN:Yes
Brake Switch:On
Evap Duty(%):92
EGR Duty(%):0
EGR Req(%):0
EGR Vlvpos(%):0
Engine RPM:675( the entire time it was jumped up/down 50 rpm, between 725 and 775 untill it warmed up, then 675 and 725 after)
Exhaust O2:Leans(this was switching between lean/rich the entire time)
High Battery:No
IAC Dicection:Rev
IAC Position:20(this seemed to change a few didgets as well)
Idle Req Rpm:675
Ignition SW:On
INJ PW:1.8(what does this mean? injector power?, however this ranged from 1.8 to 2.0 or slightly above)
ST Fuel Trim:123(what does this mean too? heh sorry guys new to this)
Knock Ret(*):0
Loop Status:Closed
MAP("HG):10.79
MAP(V):1.39
IAT(*F):90
O2(mV):49( this would jump from here to over 800 CONSTANTLY, so often that a single number couldnt be read before it changed)
O2S Crosscnts:254(what is this)
Prom ID:3015
Run Time:04:06
Spark Adv(*):23
TCC Applied:No(whats this too)
TCC Lockup:No( whats this too?)
TCC Solenoid:Off(and this)
TPS Sensor(V):0.78
Vehicle Speed(MPH):0

so um yeah, theres my live data feed while it wasnting breaking down, can anyone tell me what the things i had questions about are, and does this look ok or normal sence i dont know what everything is here? thanks!

 

Hey danb2760,
I am no expert, but I don't see anything out of the ordinary there. Batt voltage is good, and I "think", "AC enabled: ON" just means, system is ready. The fluctuations in your readings is ok too. "Loop status: closed"... (IIRC) means it is "actively taking readings, and making adjustments. "Open loop" is during start-up (engine cold), or major malfunctions, kind of a "limp home mode"
Your really important info, will be when it's "messing up". Until then, leave it hooked up, and take it for a drive, er uh, let someone else drive, so you can watch the readings (safety first).

Earlier You mentioned, "replacing wiring". There are a few things that I would do first. Check your plug in connectors, to the ECM / PCM. it is "more likely" to have corrosion at the pins, or a broken wire at the connectors. Unless you see melted, pinched, or "rubbed thru" insulation.
My 2 cents.


* if I have given any advice, that you know to be incorrect, please post a correction*

 

PROBLEM FOUND!?!?!?!?!?!!!
ok well i was letting my truck idle in the drive way about about 30 minutes, its nice and sunny today, with my scanner hooked up trying to catch this gremlin, anyway, the truck was warmed up 180 or so, idleing around 675rpm and as i walked away to us get a drink, it went vroom! and jumped up in revs, i walked back to the truck to look at the scanner only to see all my evap stuff was shut off, truck was idling at 900rpm and the scanner said loop status open, and coolant temp 60* and o2 sensor stayed at rich(but not enough to give an SES light) but when i reved it myself then the surging/bogging/stalling happen, anyway i was able to record some data during this, here are my resualts

CODES PRESENT:NO
4WD MODE:ON(AS MY LAST TEST SHOWED, BUT LIKE I SAID IT IS NOT IN 4WD I HAVE A MANUAL TRANSFER CASE THATS IN 2WD AT THE TIME
AC CLUTC:OFF
AC ENABLED:ON
AC REQUEST:OFF
BARO("HG):29.43
BARO(V):4.75
BATTERY VOLTAGE:13.5
LT FUEL TRIM:125
LT FUEL TR CL:NO
LT FUEL TR EN:ON
BRAKE SWITCH:ON
EVAP DUTY(%):0
EVAP SOLENOID:OFF
COOLANT(*F):60
EGR DUTY(%):0
EGR REQ%):0
EGR VLVEPOS(%):0
ENGINE RPM:825
EXHAUST O2:RICH
HIGH BATTERY:NO
IAC DIRECTION:REV
IAC POSITION: 26
IDLE REQ RPM:836
IGNITION SW:ON
INJ PW(MS):1.6
ST FUEL TRIM:128
KNOCK RET(*):0
LOOP STATUS:OPEN
MAP(*HG):9.05
MAP(V):1.08
IAT(*F):145
O2S(MV):941
O2S CROSSCNTS:3
PROM ID:3015
RUN TIME:00:42
SPARK ADV(*):24
TCC APPLIED:NO
TCC LOCK UP:NO
TCC SOLENOID:OFF
THROTTLE(%):0
TPS SENSOR(V):0.78
VEHSPEED(MPH):0

well there it is, i posted everything because if anything stands out that i didnt catch i hope someone here would, coolent and open loop status reach out to me, but if anything else seems abnormal let me know, does this mean the sensor is going bad or its a wire issue, any insight is welcome, thanks!