I have a 1995 2 door 4.3L blazer, has good days and bad days, recently changed ignition coil(MSD Street Fire) plugs(Autolite Plat/Delco Wires) cleaned EGR valve, replaced IAC valve from napa, truck has 165000 miles on it, engine changed at 162 when engine finially blew, current engine had 135k ran fine for 3000 miles, now it wants to stall out at idle, idles very very rough, stalls on start at times, taking off, and coming to a stop, and within the past few days, seems to mainly be on cold humid days, i was laid off in march and dont have much money, but this truck is my only way around, i can not afford to keep tossing money blindly into it trying to solve this problem, sometimes it will behave for over a week, then act up for a few days again, truck runs great when out driving, only gives me rough idle issues(shaking rocking) but not missing, only day the truck actually stalled out to the point of cutting off (normally it would drop down and jump from a few hundred rpm almost cutting off to 1000rpm, then if i gas it, seems to sometimes smooth out but not completely) when i finially got it started, it actually idled at 2000rpm and seemed to spit and miss, so but i let it sit for half an hour then it started up fine , tac seems to normally twitch 50 rpm or so, all the time, anyone have any ideas what my problem may be? and how i could fix it, only code i have ever gotten was from a knock sensor that was old and had a broken wire.

 

Pull the EGR valve and make sure that it is clean and that the valve seals up properly.

Beyond that, you could throw a fuel pressure gauge onto it to see if you may have a fuel leak internal to the plenum. The CPI engines are known for this.

 

Did you replace the cap and rotor? Could be humidity in the cap? Also just from my own experience with Autolite plugs in- they caused a miss @ idle with only around 3000 miles on them. I put in Delco plugs and it runs like a champ.

 

ill be cleaner the egr valve and putting a new gasket on tomorrow, do my best to keep everyone updated, i am really thankful for the help

 

egr valve recleaned, truck still idled rough but did not miss or stall, however it just rained an hour ago so when i took out the trash i started the truck, spit and sputter and horrible idle and shaking and dropping rpm 400 or so and picking back up, feels like its missing in a sense, be checking the cap and rotor tomorrow what are signs of failure i can see with the naked eye, could i have to end up replacing the whole dist or just cap and rotor

 

Things you could see by looking at it is if the cap is cracked or not seated properly. It's kind of a pain to get to. Once you take the cap off look at the inside for bad pitting or tracks. If it's been a while since you replaced it or if you've never done it you may just want to go ahead and put a new one on. They're cheap enough. I doubt you need to replace the whole distributor. I had to change one on my Mustang after about 400,000 miles because the bearing in the distributor was worn out. Here's a link with some more info I found.http://www.doityourself.com/stry/sym...istributor-cap

 

my 95 run fine one whole day, by the next morning would not start, acted like it had no gas. It acts like it wants to start on the first turn of the key, but that's all, on the second turn of the key acts like it's getting no spark. Please point me in the right direction, is my computer bad?

 

Check the fuel pressure.

 

i was told to replace the cap and rotor and that my dist may be fine, however, when this problem 1st started to occur, i notice under the vehicle by the oil pump/pan, i hear a ticking/clicking winding sound, its not engine knock, unfortunatly i knew that sound by heart from 159k to 162k when it blew, and within the last month when the truck has a cold start untill its warmed up i hear a very very faint squeeky sound that goes in and out, so faint that i can only hear it with the hood down that when i pop the hood to hunt it down the noise from the fan drowns it out, also when its warmed up with the turn signal on the voltage gauge twitches everytime the signal goes off, but generally its just below 14v, nothing major, also i replaced the alt a year ago, less than 6k on it, could these problems be traced back to the dist power, as does the oil gauge twitches a very few psi time to time when the signal is on or when it sputters, and can i use msd cap and rotor on my stock dist? or would it be in my best interest to fork out the 280 for an msd dist

 

try changing the ignition coil wire, it may be going bad, mine went out one night, truck ran fine during the day and i guess the wire gave out so i replaced that, sent my back on my way, maybe yours is just going out, but however mine went out while i was driving though