so judging by the missing screw I'm going to assume the previous owner had some issues with the switch and had it out before... out of all the yards near me only found 1 from a 97 20-30mins away that I might go grab tomorrow, I'm in Canada so ordering from rockauto would take 1-2 weeks

 

I bought a new one. I took it apart to see why. I guess if I had time and patience I could have fixed it. If you plan on keeping the vehicle I would replace it.

Those wires don't look like there in good shape where they are soldered.

 

I agree, I wouldn't waste my time with a used one. Who knows, it could be the previous owner couldn't figure out what the problem was and junked it Try Ebay and Amazon.

 

ya looks like some melting has happened


new one from Rockauto was ordered this weekend, hoping that fixes the issue

 

Please keep us posted. Ignition switch problems, and symptoms like you have, get a serious number of hits.

 

well got the new ignition switch and nothing that small black plug on the harness was unplugged on the old one and I don't see any spot to plug it in under the dash, that normal? also I needed to put a screwdriver in the new switch to turn it so it would line up with the spot on the steering column

keys forward(not started) I don't get a single light on the dashboard and I believe some are supposed to light up correct? anyone know if the gauge cluster could have something to do with it? tips on removing it?

also if it is the gauge cluster can I install 1 with a tach if the truck doesn't have one? local yards only have the cluster with tachs going by www.car-part.com

 

well dug into it a bit more today and didn't really see anything lol

a previous owner has had the gauge cluster out before, missing check oil and SEC light as well as greasy finger prints on it lol

quick glance at the cluster and this was the only odd spot I saw on it, but perhaps there's a hairline crack somewhere on 1 of the lines??


tempted to grab a gauge cluster but don't want to waste cash haha also found this blog thing with a guy having similar issue's, turned out his was a bad cluster
Charging Problems: I Have a 1995 Chevy S10 Blazer That Wont Charge...

 

words can't describe how much I HATE this particular blazer.... grabbed a cluster from the junkyard, RPMs on this one which from what I've read should just be plug and play

started it up with new cluster and looks like the oil pressure and coolant gauges work fine but speedometer, rpms, gas(never worked) and battery gauge needles aren't responding. Battery symbol only comes on when I jump the brown wire at the alternator so I'm assuming no break in that wire but still can't get any check engine lights etc to turn on with just the keys in the ACC spot... this is with the truck on and brown wire at alternator jumped to 12volts

I really don't know what to do lol only thing I can think of is wiring at the T-case maybe? VSS is run off it I believe or maybe that's just on my NP-236?

 

holy **** we have power!! Not 100% sure but i believe the issue is in the switch/wiring for the front diff! Was digging around pushing on clips, looking for burnt wires etc and unplugged the switch for the front diff by the brake master cylinder and noticed fuse #4 blew again, replaced fuse and 4x4 disconnected things are running good!

for anyone else in similar situation this is everything run off fuse 4

quick drive around the block and speedometer and RPM gauge are working as they should as well

getting all the lights on dash with keys in ACC


whats that switch on the front diff called? figure I'll need to order a new one, still need to double check the wiring for thew switch but quick glance it seems fine

 

This one? Nowhere near the master cylinder. Screws in next to the actuator cable? Front axle engagement switch.