I need to replace the evaporator. There is a soft rubber outer case, and a hard plastic inner case that surrounds it.

Can I get the soft rubber case out of the way and spilt the hard plastic inner case enough to get the evaporator out without getting crazy and pulling all kinds of stuff?

I have heard of other model years in which people talk about pulling the dash out, and removing the right front fender.

Has anyone done this job on a 1997?

 

Anybody?

 

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Select Vehicle | New TSBs | Technician's ReferenceComponent Search: Conversion Calculator 1997 Chevy Truck S10/T10 Blazer 4WD V6-4.3L VIN W

Vehicle Level Heating and Air Conditioning Evaporator Core Service and Repair Service and Repair Evaporator Module

Remove or Disconnect

1. Negative and positive battery cables.
2. Recover refrigerant from the system.

1. Blower motor resistor harness.
2. Battery and battery tray.
3. Electrical connectors, as necessary.
4. Evaporator tube from evaporator.
5. Accumulator

1. Coolant recovery reservoir.
2. VCM, or PCM.
3. Raise vehicle.
4. Right front wheel, and right front wheel house panel.
5. Evaporator and blower module screws and nuts.
6. Acoustic barrier (if equipped).
7. Evaporator and blower module from the vehicle.
8. Screws.
9. Case sections.
10. Core.

Install or Connect

1. Core.

1. Case sections.
2. Screws.
3. Evaporator and blower module to the vertical.
4. Acoustic barrier (if equipped).

1. Evaporator and blower module screws and nuts.

Tighten

• Bolts and stud to 4.5 N.m (40 lb in) .
• Screw and nuts to 2.5 N.m (22 lb in) .

1. Right front wheel and right front wheel house panel.
2. Lower vehicle.
3. VCM, or PCM.
4. Coolant recovery reservoir.
5. Accumulator.

1. Evaporator tube to evaporator.
2. Electrical connectors, as necessary.
3. Battery and battery tray.
4. Blower motor resistor.
5. Refrigerant to the system.

1. Battery cables.
2. Check the system for leaks.

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I did this job without removing a lot of the things the service manual says, but I did cut the soft rubber outer housing in one place to get it out of the way. I used a bugie cord to hold the hard plastic case apart on one side and only had to pull slightly on the other side to slip the evaporator out, without bending any of the fins I might add. I took pictures if anyone is interested. I just need to figure out how to post them here.

 

Eric

I have to replace the evaporator on my Blazer. I would love to see the pictures and what you removed. Looks like a tough job and according to the manual you have to disassemble most of the truck.

Thanks
Hank

 

I used a utility knife and razor blade to cut the soft rubber outer housing, and attached a bungie cord to the hard plastic inner case to pull the side facing the engine apart. In one of the pics you can see the bungie cord. There are a few screws that were hard to see that hold the hard plastic case together, so use a flashlight and scan it good.

Below is a link to the photos of the evaporator replacement. Let me know if the link works.

http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/..._-Sharee-_-Top

 

link wont load

 

Welcome to Kodak Gallery!

 

Thank you Eric D for the pictures! I am going to be replacing my evaporator soon and your pictures will help.

I am trying to get all the steps down in my mind. So do you completely remove the outer plastic cover on the drivers side or just crack it open some? I should encounter a softer rubber on the inside I will have to cut, but did you put it back? If so, did you just duct tape the seam? Then there are several screws on the inner plastic cover seperating me from finally pulling the coil?

 

i broke the orifce off in the old evaporator and have tried drilling an using an orifice removal tool with no luck. it looks like i am going to have to pull the core and replace it just because of the broken orifice, i figure once i have the core out may as well change it since i drilled at the old orifice and there are plastic and metal chips from drilling and such now in the liquid tube. The problem i have is the soft outer casing on my 96 blazer is very dry and cracked and breaking away already. once i cut into it, it will crumple. I checked with a supplier and they can't get a new outer case, do you have any recommendation on repairing this. I may try sheetmetal with some type of high temperature type compound. the out case gets some heat from the exhaust manifold where a small heat sheild is supposed to protect it.
I want to avoid taking the entire blower/evaporator module off (to me it almost looks like passenger side fender or wheel well shield underneath would have to come out just to get at some of the bolts to the firewall. Those photos eric d posted are helpful