Ok I will check that tomorrow after work and post my results.☺

 

Ignition off
CKP unplugged
Blue connector unplugged

yellow wire to Battery negative= open circuit (good)
purple wire to Battery negative = open circuit (good)
Pink wire to Battery negative = 3 ohms

Purple wire to PCM connector .3 ohms


EDIT: Hold on I'm gonna go double check my results again. Gonna check the purple to bat negative and yellow to bat negative again real quick. i had my probe in the pink wire on accident first instead of the purple wire. I fixed my results. I borrowed a DVOM with duty cycle capabilities also.

 

Ok. What about resistance from yellow to purple at the CKP connector?


Step 5 explains how to check duty cycle. It talks about a connector/adapter.... basically they want you to back probe the wires and leave them connected to the CKP & PCM. A breakout box here would be nice Actually you could do it at the PCM, might be easier to get to there. P0336_diag1of2.gif gif by swartlkk | Photobucket

Just an FYI: The CKP puts out a very low voltage signal and it is suseptable to interference. GM started putting a coax-like shield on the 3 CKP wires to help keep interference out. Can't remember what year they started doing that though, earlier years did not have the shield.

 

Oops, forgot to put that one up

It was open circuit between the yellow and purple wires at the CKP Connector.

I'll check the duty cycle next!

 

OK I checked the duty cycle and had none at all. So I decided to take the CKP back out and try to see/feel the toner ring for anything out of the ordinary and found nothing. So i decided to take the 2nd Autozone CKP out and go to my trusty Oreilly's and buy another one. Bam She's got spark now!

Note: I buy 98% of my parts at Oreilly because I can't stand Autozone.



I think it is cross firing inside the distributor cap now because Its backfiring through the intake and the distributor timing is dead on. There looks like their are a couple of white marks on the inside. I've been down the cross firing road before. lol


Getting Closer!


Also A BIG THANKS GOES OUT TO CAPTAIN HOOK FOR ALL THE HELP SO FAR!

 

Another perfect example of.... just because a part is new, DOESN'T mean it's good. This is why proper testing is mandatory. That way you KNOW if a part is doing what it's supposed to. Sometimes there's no way around using the necessary test equipment to nail the problem down.

Now, on to the misfire..... Snap the throttle over 2K and back to idle. Is the check engine light on? If so, check for P1345.

Might want to double check plug wire routing. Pay close attention to driver side:

 

No kidding! Just because its a new part (or in this case 2 new parts) doesn't mean they are good.

I will check the plug routing real quick since i'm not the one that put them in and we now know some history on the guy that had his hands on it before me. Lol


It back fires through the intake when it cranks over. sounds 180 out but the all the timing marks are lined up on the crank pulley, timing cover, and distributor.

 

Crank makes two revolutions for each one revolution of the rotor, so the crank marks will line up twice for each complete engine cycle, (each cylinder completes all 4 strokes). If/when the distributor is off 180 degrees, you'll get induction, (backfire through the intake) and the engine will not start.

 

Timing was out, pulled the distributor and flipped it 180 dropped her back in and BAM she fired right up! No codes as of yet and if any come up I'll post them up!


Captain Hook if you lived closer I'd buy you a steak dinner! Thanks for all the help!

 

Thanks, glad to help. Don't forget, the crankshaft position sensor relearn needs to be performed. Once the scanner is communicating with the vehicle, and the relearn is initiated, it literally takes 2 seconds to complete the relearn. Slowly bring engine rpm up to 4K and take your foot off the gas pedal, done. Camshaft retard also needs to be checked/adjusted.