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1997 S10 Blazer help Eats distributor caps!!!!

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  #11  
Old 12-13-2012, 06:42 AM
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I did not feel a tremendus gain, but i did feel more top end, and it just ran better all around, but that could also be because of the new cap and rotor again. Do those slits i drilled out actually restrict air flow that much? i was able to see right through mine. The truck does not get driven everyday as it is one of 9 cars i have. It always seemed to happen when it was very humid out or raining or when the truck sits for a while.

I know how to adjust the torsion bars, all i have checked for was a difference in hieght side to side, but i don't know what the actual spec is suppose to be for height. Mine is a normal 4x4 4 door s10 blazer. It would stink if they are off cause then i have to get annother lazer alignment done, but whatever. I don't know what else it could be and none of my other trucks do this, the monotubes really just put it at bay, its more like a cover up to the problem i feel
 
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Old 12-13-2012, 06:58 AM
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Just testing my new pic and car list
 
  #13  
Old 12-13-2012, 04:01 PM
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The improvement in performance was a combination of both the new cap & rotor, and camshaft retard being adjusted correctly. If you could see through the holes, it probably wasn't a contributing factor. If they were clear, the ventilation was sufficient and the problem was incorrect camshaft retard and a worn out cap & rotor.

Front chassis ride height is the vertical distance between the lower-most inboard point of the steering knuckle, nearest the ball joint stud, to the center of the lower control arm pivot bolt.
1996 & newer:
4WD (except ZR2) = 4.6” to 5.0” (4.8” is preferred)

It must be checked & adjusted on a level surface, like an alignment rack. A good quality alignment will include it in the price of the alignment If they didn't even check it... find another alignment shop.

If it handles squirrely, like you described, there's a problem with one, (or more) of those things mentioned earlier, guaranteed. If yours still has the original control arm bushings, they're probably dried out, crumbling and sloppy. Replacing them will make a world of difference.
 
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Old 01-15-2013, 09:21 AM
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I have been having the the wet weather issue for sometime but never figured it was the screens, have tried rtving the cap and that didnt work. Just figured it was a fault in the design. And I have been fighting a random misfire only at idle ihaven't been able to fix... Ihope the distributor trick works. Thanks guys
 
  #15  
Old 01-15-2013, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by ssean92
I have been having the the wet weather issue for sometime but never figured it was the screens, have tried rtving the cap and that didnt work. Just figured it was a fault in the design. And I have been fighting a random misfire only at idle ihaven't been able to fix... Ihope the distributor trick works. Thanks guys
Probably the same scenario as above... needs an AC Delco cap & rotor and camshaft retard adjusted. If the distributor has ever been out of the engine, and camshaft retard was not checked/adjusted after it was reinstalled, the odds of reinstalling it correctly are astronomically against you.
 
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Old 01-15-2013, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Captain Hook
Probably the same scenario as above... needs an AC Delco cap & rotor and camshaft retard adjusted. If the distributor has ever been out of the engine, and camshaft retard was not checked/adjusted after it was reinstalled, the odds of reinstalling it correctly are astronomically against you.
Yes it has been out a few times.... And i am sure. I had no clue about that. And i have the issue only at idle, get 23-25 mpg on highway
 
  #17  
Old 01-15-2013, 03:51 PM
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Post #10 explains why correct camshaft retard is important. Among other things, the rotor is aligned with the cap terminals when the ignition coil fires, which keeps the gap to a minimum. If it misfires only at idle, a lazy upstream oxygen sensor may be a contributing factor.
 
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