Cleaned the throttle body, replaced the AIC motor, didn't fix the voltage drop, but runs like a raped ape! Clean the carbon out... Now I have no brake lights. Not related. I put the turn signal on, the 4 wheel drive module clicks. Going to the deal-ship. Brake lights are controlled from the turn switch. Replaced already because when I went to stop, musical which brake light came on. Mods. DO NOT shut this post down. Dealership, are my friends. I'm tired of fighting this. Outcome, soon...........

 

1. So the service bulletin calls for replacing the alternator connector, did you do this?
2. Were all of your connections solid, clean and tight?
3. And so after this your number 1 problem remains wonky voltage?
4. Did you verify this with a DVM on a system point like say the ICM pink wire?
5. Same question at the battery terminals?

George

 

Alternator plug has been replaced per the service bulletin. All connections are good. Like I said, now no brake/turn/run lights in back. Relay was going ape, replaced it, l/r park fuse under the hood 10 amp keeps blowing, opened up the trailer wiring harness... Nothing obvious. After 6 PM, enough for today! Top brake light comes on, reverse light work. Still has the charging problem. Lost the link to the wiring diagrams........

 

Put a new filler neck assembly in... Under the "trunk" metal looked good! Wiring harness is in the middle... Self tapper right through the harness. Rear light's are back, lost low beams.. more to come..........

 

Lost low beams after I got the truck back, replaced the headlight switch about 7 years ago fighting the flickering issue, saved the old one, can't find it... Not understanding why when no key in ignition the bulb sockets have 12 volts on them, both terminals. Switch high beam on, the other side grounds allowing them to come on. So apparently the low beams are not grounding. Thought the headlight switch would override it... More to come. swartlkk, going to see if this post posts spam links.