Hi, I just bought a "new to me" 2000 2-door blazer. Here is a little background. The day I picked it up it wouldn't start. just cranked then sputter and die. He changed the cap and rotor and all was good for about a month or so. Then it started with alittle miss here and there. Once it even just died while going about 10 mph but started right back up. After a few days it wouldn't start just like the day I bought it. Checked here with you guys and took off the dist. cap and the rotor was half off. one screw was off and the other was very loose. the one that came off was under the rotor itself. replaced the screws and tighten well. Everything seemed fine but getting 1345 code that won't go away and starting to intermittantly giving trouble on start up again-- but very intermittent. Check cap and rotor- still tight. Any advice on what to check. Iit's "out of time" would it still run decent. Idles fine with only a "hiccup" here and there.

 

its either the cam sensor (under rotor) or the distributor is off a tooth or 2.

 

Would it be possible that the cam sensor got damaged when the rotor got loose and the screw was under? I didn't get this code until the rotor thing happened. Also, would that screw under there cause the dist. to jump a tooth? I wouldn't think it would but thought I'd ask.
Do you have to pull the dist. to change that sensor??

 

I had a P1345 code pop up out of nowhere on my old 2000 Jimmy. A few weeks later, I had a misfire along with a P0300 code. Turns out that the distributor gear was so worn it caused camshaft retard to be off, and also caused my misfire due to cross fire under the cap. I replaced the distributor (aluminum housing) and both codes went away, along with the misfire.

Here's a link to the thread I made about it. https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...w-p0300-70645/

 

Thanx, PFR- so far I don't have a 300 code and I'm still wondering if that screw could have damaged the sensor. Also, is the sensor right under the cap or do I need to pull the dist. to get to it? Oh yeah, and could the screw (being under the cap) make the dist. jump a tooth? Like I said the hard starts are intermittent, when it does it,it idles rough for about 30-40 seconds then smooths out and acts fine after that. Most times it fires right up and acts fine. I didn't get the 1345 code till after the rotor came loose and can't get rid of it since. On a side note, while I'm thinking of it I also get the dreaded 410 code about the air pump. Now, with that the guy I got it from just changed it-never heard of it myself but when the light came on it showed 410. I checked the fuse and it was blown,changed it and now the pump turns on like it should but the code keeps coming back-been warm weather so i know it didn't freeze up. But it seems to came on at odd times while driving- that's not normal right? It should only come on during start up (which it does). Sorry so long,but getting frustrated with all this-not to mention hubby is not to happy either. thanx for any input.

 

you dont have to pull the distributor. Just the cap/rotor. there is a "metal band" that spins around the sensor. theres a cut opening on the band,but you have to bump the starter until the cut opening lines up with the sensor before you can take it out. Helps to have 2 people.

 

O.K. thanx, New thing happening. Went out to go somewhere and it didn't start so we popped the hood and the coil was arching through the boot when it was turning over. It did start this time but every time you would see a spark/arch the engine missed. So now I'm thinking that's where the code/miss is coming from. Just have to figure out what is making it do that. Bad coil?, boot? (wires are new), bad ground? This happen to anyone else? I assume that could cause the1345 code?

 

could be the boot. wait till its dark tonight. take a spray bottle with some water and spray around. watch where it arcs. what quality wires did you use?

 

Don't have to wait till dark, you can see it plain as day in the daylight. It's arching from the boot stem to the coil pack itself. We didn't put the wires on, the guy I got it from did right before I got it from him. I do see carquest stamped on them though-so not ac delco. We actually swapped the coil wire with another one we had and got the same result

 

Oh,swap the coil then. they are about 30 bucks,brand doesnt matter. never had issues with cheap coils. Only go oem on fuel pumps,and icm's. Ngk or ac delco plugs only. anything else. meh. the coil might be your issue.