I have a 2000 blazer with 41,000 miles. The drivers side power window just stopped working, I checked the voltage at the switch and have 11.94 volts in the up & down switch positions, the same as the other 3 windows. I also have a clicking coming from the glove box area sounds a little like a relay. remove glove box but the only thing I saw is the turn signal flasher
Any ideas??

 

I would recommend removing the door panel to access the window motor itself. Then with the switch connected, check for power and ground at the motor. If you have power, try tapping the motor (sometimes it will work although the brushes are worn)
If the window works when the motor is tapped, replace the motor.
If you have power to the connector and the motor doesn't work, replace the motor.

The passenger power window switch, on the master switch, shares a common RAP fuse supply voltage circuit and ground circuit with the left front window switch. If the passenger power window(s) operate properly from the master switch, the RAP fuse supply voltage circuit and ground circuit can be presumed good.

 

I went out today and everything is working fine, I did not do anything. The window is working fine and the clicking has stopped by the glove box. I was wondering if maybe I have a loose ground somewhere? The weather is a little cooler today and it rained all nite.

 

The clicking sound you hear may be the multifunction switch going bad....

 

I don't know but mine seems to stop once in a while for no reason it seems other then to **** me off. I can hold it down and nothing will happen. Although for some reason if I try to roll the window up while I am starting the car it seems to kick and comes up like normal. Don't know if that helps

 

I had this problem with my Camaro and the switch was phsicaly broken and had to be replaced
It was not apparent at first, had to pull on it to find the problem. It was the drivers door.
Not sure if they are the same manufacurer

 

I just fixed my power window not working. I did the normal checks- found power to motor. I figured the motor was shot so I pulled a regulator and motor from my local wrecking yard. Paid $65. As per manual I drilled out the 4 rivets holding the reg. to the door, this allowed me to then remove the motor by drilling out the rivets holding the motor to the reg. When I was working on this removal stuff I noticed that the motor attach rivets were somewhat loose. Just for the hell of it I tried the switch again, guess what, the assembly worked, window went up and the window went down. After all the work of drilling rivets and installing temp bolts to hold things together I looked at the assembly and noticed that the crank sector was a close tolerance fit to the motor drive gear. I finally realized after about 3 hrs of work that the real cause of the window not coming down was the looseness of the gear drive assembly. I replaced the motor/gear drive rivets with 5/16th countersunk bolts. I then replaced the 4 regulator rivets with 5/16th bolts and tightened everything real snug. now the windows works as per OEM specs. Spent another hour cleaning and reinstalling door panel and switches.
So if your window just stops working without reason and you have checked relays and fuses and banged on the window trying to get it to work you might think about the motor assembly loose rivets before spending lots of money on a new motor plus labor.

 

Good work, and thanks for the update.
I suspect that by securing the motor, you completed the ground circuit.

 

Actually I tested the motor when it was out of the door(not attached to anything except the elec. connection) and it worked perfectly up and down! It's a dc motor and you can check polarity and voltage when you connect your meter to the connector. I suspect that the polarity is changed somewhere else in the circuit?

 

i've got a weirder one than that (96 blazer) driver's window & drivers rear window work intermittently. works when it's cold outside, stops working when it's warm usually. what a pain!