Today was the 2nd day in a row my truck has taken 5-10 mins to start. First time was about two weeks ago...same amount of time.

It'd crank up run for a second then die. Brand new F/PUMP which works. Yesterday, I noticed after it finally cranked up it tried to bog down and die again until I gave it throttle. First time and today the truck sat for 9 hours. Yesterday the truck sat for 10 minutes.

I have noticed that it will only crank after seems like the 15th attempt and has to be two tries back to back. Meaning it cranks up...starts dying I hit the ignition and pedal at same time and it fires up. I am losing my job in 3 weeks so really need to figure this out so I have dependable transportation for the new job.

It sounds fuel related, but a factory "security" system I know it could be bad ignition switch.

Today I took truck from 0 to topped out at WOT. Not a single skip so it had fuel the entire time.

My guesses:
Ignition Switch
Fuel Regulator
Spider Injector(I doubt this)

This is doing a number to my battery, and last thing I need is to be left with a dead battery.

 

Does the vehicle have a factory security system, (not clear in your post).

First step is check fuel pressure and leakdown. That will test the entire fuel delivery system.

 

When you replaced the pump, did you also change
the fuel filter? Very important to do so.

 

I have Lock/Unlock and then the Security light that has come on while driving nearly a year ago, but it stopped.

It was replaced not long before the pump went out, but I am going to be replacing it as soon as possible. Today if I can squeeze it in.

 

Are the lights coming on when you turn the key? If they are start with a fuel pressure and leakdown test like captain said.

 

Last night after class my SECURITY light stayed on again solid, but truck ran as normal.

Last time SECURITY light came on was about 7 months ago when I was cruising down the highway. It did it for about a week just randomly coming on yet staying off when I for back in truck.

50lb_cat - Lights come on like normal. Battery shows correct voltages.

 

If the "security" light is on, it sounds like a problem with Passlock. The system will allow the engine to start and run for a few seconds, then shut off the injectors if it detects a "theft" situation. If you have any type of aftermarket security system, keyless entry system, or remote start system, the Passlock system may interpret certain conditions as a "theft" situation. If you have another key for the vehicle, try it and see if it makes any difference. If not, try removing the aftermarket equipment.

 

Have you done the fuel pressure and leakdown test?

 

Plan on stopping by tonight after class.

Nothing aftermarket. Everything is stock. One key and one remote.

 

Depending on the results of the fuel test, I would try a passlock reprogram like captain said. There shouldbe a diy here somewhere, I'm on the mobile so finding links is a pain, but check around.