2000 GMC jimmy SLT 4.3 crank no start HELP!!
 

heres what ive done so far:4
Last yr replaced the following:
Upper and lower intake gaskets,head gaskets, new starter,plugs, wires,cap, cam sensor, crank sensor, new coil, new icm and fuel pump and filter.

This yr I had a hard start with a crnk/cam shaft correlation code and alternator went out. Replaced Alt and new distributor,cap,rotor and cam sensor and timing chain. Placed Dist in at the marks of the old dist and no start, replaced timing chain, engine TDC placed new dist in with the mark on the 6 of the dist housing and still no start, gave a crnk code, replced crank sensor, still no start.
Checked voltage to coil,ICM, crank ,sensor all have volts.
Checked all grounds and re-did them. still no start. Checked voltage to ignition switch and i have power.

scanned and it keeps giving me P0463 fuel level sensor circuit high voltage
cleared code no start and thats the only code that pops up.
Could that P0463 code cause a no start condition?
truck will crank but no start. this is my DD and I need it running asap.
any and all help is greatly appreciated thanks

One suggestion, it is not uncommon for someone to put their distributor in on the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke. Both have #1 TDC in the same place but the engine is 180 out if installed on exhaust stroke. Also, you wouldn't be the first to have their spark plug wires installed incorrectly. Double check at your dizzy cap. #3 goes closest to the front of the truck, then #1.

thanks for the response Rock, ill be rechecking everything today.
I asked a local shop about this and the guy had a v8 with a vortec in it and it was doing the same thing, gave him a couple days to figure his out, turns out it was the crank sensor wasnt seated all the way in. Im gonna double check all this today. will update later. Thanks

I was able to get a better spark tester yesterday also found out that the lil rubber boot that was supposed to be on the crank sensor somehow fell off and i didnt have a good connection there, fixed that now i have spark all the way to the distributor cap and thats where it ends, no spark to plugs. I'm goin to redo the TDC one more time and retest the spark to ALL plugs. Yesterday I didnt get spark to the #1 and #2 so I assumed it was the cap and put the old cap on with the old rotor and a slight adjustment to the rotor point and i got back fire. Will update later when finished. I'm goin on 2 weeks w/o a car and i need to get out of the house soon lol

Sounds like you've either got the timing chain or the distributor in wrong. Hasn't run since it has been apart, right? That should tell you that you have installed something incorrectly.

Check compression with a tester on any cylinder to see if timing chain is in right. If OK compression, better review distributor install procedures and try again. Did you have it TDC#1 or TDC on another cylinder? Only every other revolution of the crankshaft is TDC#1 - a 4-stroke engine.

Correct, hasn't ran since its been apart, rechecked timing before put everything back together, TDC on #1.
Redid TDC #1 today dropped the new dist with all new cap, rotor and cam sensor, only getting intermittent spark so i think its the plug wires, last night i had the same result.
gonna recheck spark to the plugs this afternoon.

What exactly did you do to determine TDC#1 - then what marks on the balancer did you line up with what, with the distributor rotor pointing to what? How did you adjust where your rotor was pointing - the factory hold down is non-adjustable. I know you don't believe there is a problem here, but please indulge me before we go further down the road. I haven't heard the magic words that convinces me the distributor is in right just yet! You did say that you put a timing chain in this engine, correct? Has it run since the timing chain?

Took out plug#1 rotated crank manually, put phillip head screwdriver in cylinder #1 till it backed out all the way, timing marks on balance line up to both marks on top and bottom. Dropped in dist pointing to the mark INSIDE the dist housing stamped "6". made a small adjustment to the point by bending it up just a li for better spark pulled the tab in the middle of the rotor up a lil for better connection to the cap.
Hasn't ran since I put timing chain in no, BUT I had this same problem when I just put the new distributor in and after. Wasn't starting so thats when i did the timing chain, i thought maybe my timing chain was loose, its got 150k miles and im the second owner so i figured it was time.
I just tried reusing my old cap rotor and cam sensor and still no spark tp the plugs, i have air and fuel just no spark to the plugs. Plugs and wires were bought last yr around this same time for a tune up.
The way it sounds now is like im getting a spark on one cylinder.
New dist, cap rotor and sensor are all Duralast gold, I've read plenty that some dont work with these motors but idk if thats the case either.
Check power to my sensor and its good so could it be just the cap?
or cap and wires??

By using the Phillips head alone, there is a chance you are 180 out and you installed the distributor on the exhaust stroke. The #1 piston will be in exactly the same spot (all the way up). You have to feel for compression coming out when you are nearing TDC. Then put the screwdriver in. Also, insure you do not back up if you go past TDC. Start over. Sounds like you might actually be a BDC (even though the piston is at the top of it's stroke.

Also, use something like a straw instead of a screwdriver so you won't inadvertently do any damage to the cylinder or walls. One other thing, if you have a vacuum gauge (that reads PSI and HG) probably the best way to find TDC.You tube videos on how to do it.

P.S. There is a slight compression on the exhaust stroke also, but near what there is on the compression stroke go past TDC twice with your finger over the #1 hole and you'll pick up on it.

Thanks for the detail. I think your problem lies in the definition of TDC#1.

It is true that you found TDC on #1 cylinder using your method. Problem is that for the purposes of dropping distributor in, it needs to be TDC#1 on compression stroke (small detail typically left out) - and that happens only every other time the #1 piston comes up to TDC. See the problem here?

I would suggest a very easy test. Pull #1 spark plug, disable coil, remove distributor cap, and have someone crank the engine while you stick your finger in the spark plug hole and watch the rotor. Engine should blow your finger out of the hole a bit before the rotor gets to the stamped #6. If compression happens with rotor pointing to opposite side of the distributor, you have the distributor 180 out. If compression doesn't happen or if rotor doesn't turn or turns erratically, then you have bigger problems (possibly timing chain issues).

There are two ways to tell if you are on the compression stroke.
1) A pulse of compression right before crank timing marks come into alignment
2) or both valves are closed when crank timing marks are aligned (requires valve cover to be off)

On the Blazer, for aligning crank timing marks - one mark should line up with the mark on timing cover, and the other should be pretty much straight down.

Rockp2 and I are saying pretty much exactly the same thing - just a bit differently.

good luck and best wishes for a successful repair.

update: i was 180 out. Put TDC on the compression stroke this time, the right way, dropped the dist and started right up!
went to take a test drive and its started boggin down and sounded like it was misfiring, started coming back home and it died and no codes.
pulled in the driveway hooked the scanner up just to see if there was a code and i got P0341 CMP sensor performance and P0339 CKP sensor Circuit Intermittent.
I havent tried anything to it yet so i will check the msgs for ideas and ill try them in the morning thanks

You need to attach a scanner capable of reading live cam retard data and adjust the distributor so that the cam sensor reads 0 +/-2. Until you do that you won't get it to run properly. To adjust this you will need to oval out the distributor hold down clamp a bit so that you can rotate the distributor a touch to get within spec. DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING ELSE UNTIL YOU DO THIS OR YOU WILL BE WASTING TIME!

Clear the codes - verify they are cleared - and see if they come back.

I cleared them with my scanner and they didnt come back but now it wont start. I haven't been able to get a scanner that can do the timing yet waiting on some friends to be able to come over and do that first.

Has to run before you can check cam retard

so get a spark plug and disconnect the coil wire from the distributor. Connect the spark plug to that and ground the spark plug. Crank the engine and look for a steady spark. If spark you can rule out a lot of things. Report please.

Its been a couple days so here's what I just tried today:
charged battery, added 5 gallons of fuel, can hear fuel pump turn on, got fuel to the injectors, checked for spark at the coil wire and to #1 spark plug and i do have spark to both places, it was the closest but have not checked all spark plugs.
It turns over hits one time but will not start. I do have another fuel pump on the way as this was a pump from pullapart and the leveler didn't work anyway.
I turned the distributor as much as I could with the bolt out but did not oval out the hold down bolt area yet, question-If I pull the dist out and oval the bolt hole out, do I set it back to TDC again or just mark where the rotor points and drop it back in?
Bout to go out and pull all my plugs to see what they look like and test if I have spark to all

How do you know you have fuel at the injectors? Just because the pump turns on doesn't mean it's working properly. Personally I'd just pry the hold down clamp off without removing the dizzy if you really think you have it in the correct position.

So here's an update on my Jimmy:
Took out all plugs and broke 2 on accident so I just replaced all wires and plugs and fuel pump came in and put that in also. Redone TDC after everything was back in and still wont start, sounds like it wants to but almost sounds like im getting barely any fuel. Getting fuel to the pressure valve.
The only other thing i can think of is has to be my injectors.
I've rechecked spark to my plugs and its there, just doesnt sound like im getting fuel to the cylinders.
Thats the only other thing i can think of right now.

Also,I am not getting any codes whatsoever.

Spray some carb cleaner in the throttle body while trying to start and see if the engine fires up for a second so you can narrow down if it is fuel or fire. Leave the MAF sensor and IAT sensor in place in and don't disconnect them.

sorry its been a min got sick and wastnt able to work on the truck.
I went out and tried to start with carb cleaner and it almost started, got a crnka sensor code again and tested the sensor and the sensor was no good.
I feel dumb but when i put the new crank sensor in i forgot to unhook the battery and it shorted it out, haste makes waste, so now i have to wait till i get enough money for the new crank sensors, 1 for my Jimmy and 1 for my Blazer.

SO new crank sensor came in, disconnected the battery, installed new sensor, hooked battery back up, prayed, jimmy started right up only to die a couple mins later. Looked like my battery wasnt fully charged, charged battery started up and then now its back to crank no start, service engine light is on but getting no codes.
The only thing i can think of is that its the wiring to the sensor is loose by the connection, going to pullapart tmrw and getting a new pig tail and maybe a sensor or 3.

Redid crank sensor, gave me a p0336 CKP Sensor A circuit performance.
All fuses are still good. so that's not the problem.
Same code as before.
I got 2 crank connectors and crank sensors from pullapart. The only thing I can think of is that the connector is loose and that's causing the short, before I do that I'm going to back track the wires to the pcm and see if there's a short around there. I've already probed and tested the connections before and it tells me I'm getting volts and continuity.
The next thing i can only think of is take the timing cover off and see if theres anything in the reluctor ring... I don't know what else to do, it keep throwing CKP codes.

The air space between your crank sensor and the reluctor wheel is critical. You've done a lot of on off with the timing cover and crank sensor. I know the timing cover is supposed to be a one use only. I'm wondering if that air space is screwed up because the silicone "ish" gasket material is too far gone. Or maybe the timing cover is skewed to one side or the other and screwing up that air space. Be very anal about the placement of your timing cover and check out the mounting hole for your CKP to insure it isn't screwed up at all.

Finally got back to the truck after being sick for a month and the hectic holidays.
I found out I had a short in the wire from the CKP sensor to the ignition coil, redid that wire and still getting a couple codes P0300 misfire; no certain cylinder. P0337; CKP low frequency, P0341; CPS sensor performance. I haven't redone my timing cover yet, but thats about to happen since i have money now, could that cause the misfire or could it be the wiring to the CPS, cause I have moved those wires around a lot.
It will start and run go down the street but the codes pop up everytime, if i clear them with my scanner they pop right back up obviously. Could it be the connector to the ignition coil cause thats where i found the first short or could it be the connector to the Cam sensor, since i was messing with the dizzy alot.
When its started I jiggle the wires at all 3 places, CPS, CKP sensor and at the igntion coil and nothing happens and no codes show up until im driving down the road.
Thanks again in advance for the help.

What is the first code that is listed? That's where you start. Also , just FYI, cam sensor is CMP.

yep, rechecking everything ive done. lol
everyday i look at it and think to myself, what did i do or didnt do? lol
I'll figure this puzzle out.
and thanks for the correction. :icon_beerchug:

You want to work on the first code first. Problems with that can cause other codes. So fixing the first one may correct the second one. What's the first code?

first code was P0300

P0300 is the first code that pops up now?

You never did a crank sensor relearn after disturbing the crank sensor.

So here's whats been going on with my Jimmy lately.
Redid all the electrical connections to crank sensor, cam sensor, ignition coil and ignition control module. I was still getting 2 P0300 so I cleaned the EGR valve thinking that was the problem, took it for a test drive after I cleaned it out.
Got about half mile down the road ses light started flashing giving me a code of P0339 and P0341. I am stuck I dont know what else to do, I've replaced all sensors, redid the timing, had the distributor put in by a shop, had them do the relearn process they scanned it and said i needed new lower intake gaskets so i redid them also.
Truck will start right up, will throw p0300 code,clear them take for test drive and still will give me P0339 and P0341 code. Anything else you gusy can think of would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Again

I went back and read through your posts. In the first one you mention that you replaced the crank sensor but I'm nbot sure of the reason you did that the first time. Later you metion that you fixed a rubber boot for the CKP sensor. Then later you mention that you shorted out a new CKP sensor because your battery was connected. That one troubles me. I don't have the wiring diagram for your truck so I'm only able to base my thoughts off the wiring diagram for a 98 Blazer, but I believe for the CKP sensor they're primarily the same. If this is so, your CKP sensor has no power going to it unless you had the key in the "Start" or "Run" position. I'm showing the power comes from the ECM 1 fuze which is only hot in run or start. Everything seems to keep involving the CKP sensor and leads me to believe that you should check that circuit. Unfortunately you are limited on the checks you can do especially if it is intermittent. You can do some wiggle tests to check wire integrity and ohm out the circuit also, but you would want a wiring diagram to do those test properly. It might save you some headaches if you went to someone or a shop that has a scope so they can check the square wave on the circuit to see if there is any glitches or bad waves. if they know what they are doing they will be able to also scope crank and cam correlation to see if there are issues there. Usaully those of us on this forum want to use a shop as last resort, but you might be to a point that without the proper equipment it is near impossible to fully diagnose. It just seems to me that you have a issue with the CKP circuit somewhere.

Thanks for the quick response Rock,
Im gonna try to rewire the ignition coil connector with a new connector as this is the only one that I did with a used one from a pullapart wire connector, if that doesnt do it then i will be goin to a shop.
The weird thing is that i drove it to the store today just to see what codes would pop up,
first was 2 P0300 codes, cleared them drove 1/4 mile same codes popped up. Cleared them drove about 2 miles and then I got the P0341 code again, no ckp sensor codes, so i was thinking since both sensors wire up to the ignition coil that maybe the problem with the "used" connector/wire, possibility?
I am a novice at electrical work, dont like it one bit lol
If I wiggle the wires theres never a problem. Only time it throws any ckp/camshaft sens codes is when it gets going down the road.
Thanks again for your time and knowledge.

When you wiggle wires to check for intermittent codes it's best to do it with your voltmeter and not count on any codes being thrown. I do want to get back to the "CKP shorted because battery was connected" thing though you mentioned. There should be no power going to the sensor if the key was in the "Off" position when you installed that CKP sensor. So maybe you want to check that out to insure you don't have some type of short to power or even a bad ignition switch, etc issue going on that's dirtying up your CKP signal.

I would disconnect the sensor and if your wiring is the same as mine (which I believe it may be), measure for voltage on the harness side of the connector at the pink wire. Do this with the key "off". Don't jamb the voltmeter lead in to the plug, just touch the contact associated to the pink wire or back probe the pink wire at the plug using a T-pin or something along those lines. The other lead to a known good ground (if your lead can reach B(-) use that). You should not read any voltage. If you read voltage, there is a circuit problem somewhere.

If you do not read any voltage on that test, next, leaving the crank position sensor unplugged, KOEO (Key On, Engine Off) measuring on the same pink wire you should see battery voltage. Then you might set the voltmeter up where you can see it, and then if you connect your leads so that they will stay (one lead to pink wire on harness side of connector, other lead to known good ground), KOEO wiggle the wiring harness around where you think the pink wire runs through (remember, it goes back to the UBEC (under hood fuze box)). If the voltage fluctuates at a certain point along the wiring harness, that would suggest a break in the wire integrity at that point and you can look more into it.

Do you have the wiring diagrams for truck?

thanks for the very descriptive post! I will def try that as soon as i can, its raining and no cover lol Ill update as soon as possible.
Thanks again for your time, very much appreciated.

Update: The jimmy is finally running with no issues that I've had in the past. Rockp2, I actually did another wire wiggle test and it turns out that the crank sensor wasnt sitting in the hole very good, the screw that holds it in to the plastic timing cover was actually backing out,the threads in the timing cover were coming out. New timing cover redid the electrical connection fits nice and snug started right up and running great. I do however have a P0171 fuel trim lean in bank 1 and 2. Researched what I have to do there so doing that today.
Thanks to all of you for your info and knowledge again. This is the first time I've actually put this much time and energy into a vehicle and I fixed it without going to a shop so I proved alot to myself these last few months.
Thanks again.
Now onto my 2000 Blazer...

I refer you back to post #25. :D Glad to hear you got the primary problem taken care of and thanks for letting us know.

P.S. Did you have the CKP relearn done?

Compression stroke
 

Stick your finger in#1cylinder and turn over until compression felt and than stick your driver in until reaching the Piston that's tdc on compression stroke