P0300 is the first code that pops up now?

 

You never did a crank sensor relearn after disturbing the crank sensor.

 

So here's whats been going on with my Jimmy lately.
Redid all the electrical connections to crank sensor, cam sensor, ignition coil and ignition control module. I was still getting 2 P0300 so I cleaned the EGR valve thinking that was the problem, took it for a test drive after I cleaned it out.
Got about half mile down the road ses light started flashing giving me a code of P0339 and P0341. I am stuck I dont know what else to do, I've replaced all sensors, redid the timing, had the distributor put in by a shop, had them do the relearn process they scanned it and said i needed new lower intake gaskets so i redid them also.
Truck will start right up, will throw p0300 code,clear them take for test drive and still will give me P0339 and P0341 code. Anything else you gusy can think of would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Again

 

I went back and read through your posts. In the first one you mention that you replaced the crank sensor but I'm nbot sure of the reason you did that the first time. Later you metion that you fixed a rubber boot for the CKP sensor. Then later you mention that you shorted out a new CKP sensor because your battery was connected. That one troubles me. I don't have the wiring diagram for your truck so I'm only able to base my thoughts off the wiring diagram for a 98 Blazer, but I believe for the CKP sensor they're primarily the same. If this is so, your CKP sensor has no power going to it unless you had the key in the "Start" or "Run" position. I'm showing the power comes from the ECM 1 fuze which is only hot in run or start. Everything seems to keep involving the CKP sensor and leads me to believe that you should check that circuit. Unfortunately you are limited on the checks you can do especially if it is intermittent. You can do some wiggle tests to check wire integrity and ohm out the circuit also, but you would want a wiring diagram to do those test properly. It might save you some headaches if you went to someone or a shop that has a scope so they can check the square wave on the circuit to see if there is any glitches or bad waves. if they know what they are doing they will be able to also scope crank and cam correlation to see if there are issues there. Usaully those of us on this forum want to use a shop as last resort, but you might be to a point that without the proper equipment it is near impossible to fully diagnose. It just seems to me that you have a issue with the CKP circuit somewhere.

 

Thanks for the quick response Rock,
Im gonna try to rewire the ignition coil connector with a new connector as this is the only one that I did with a used one from a pullapart wire connector, if that doesnt do it then i will be goin to a shop.
The weird thing is that i drove it to the store today just to see what codes would pop up,
first was 2 P0300 codes, cleared them drove 1/4 mile same codes popped up. Cleared them drove about 2 miles and then I got the P0341 code again, no ckp sensor codes, so i was thinking since both sensors wire up to the ignition coil that maybe the problem with the "used" connector/wire, possibility?
I am a novice at electrical work, dont like it one bit lol
If I wiggle the wires theres never a problem. Only time it throws any ckp/camshaft sens codes is when it gets going down the road.
Thanks again for your time and knowledge.

 

When you wiggle wires to check for intermittent codes it's best to do it with your voltmeter and not count on any codes being thrown. I do want to get back to the "CKP shorted because battery was connected" thing though you mentioned. There should be no power going to the sensor if the key was in the "Off" position when you installed that CKP sensor. So maybe you want to check that out to insure you don't have some type of short to power or even a bad ignition switch, etc issue going on that's dirtying up your CKP signal.

I would disconnect the sensor and if your wiring is the same as mine (which I believe it may be), measure for voltage on the harness side of the connector at the pink wire. Do this with the key "off". Don't jamb the voltmeter lead in to the plug, just touch the contact associated to the pink wire or back probe the pink wire at the plug using a T-pin or something along those lines. The other lead to a known good ground (if your lead can reach B(-) use that). You should not read any voltage. If you read voltage, there is a circuit problem somewhere.

If you do not read any voltage on that test, next, leaving the crank position sensor unplugged, KOEO (Key On, Engine Off) measuring on the same pink wire you should see battery voltage. Then you might set the voltmeter up where you can see it, and then if you connect your leads so that they will stay (one lead to pink wire on harness side of connector, other lead to known good ground), KOEO wiggle the wiring harness around where you think the pink wire runs through (remember, it goes back to the UBEC (under hood fuze box)). If the voltage fluctuates at a certain point along the wiring harness, that would suggest a break in the wire integrity at that point and you can look more into it.

Do you have the wiring diagrams for truck?

 

thanks for the very descriptive post! I will def try that as soon as i can, its raining and no cover lol Ill update as soon as possible.
Thanks again for your time, very much appreciated.

 

Update: The jimmy is finally running with no issues that I've had in the past. Rockp2, I actually did another wire wiggle test and it turns out that the crank sensor wasnt sitting in the hole very good, the screw that holds it in to the plastic timing cover was actually backing out,the threads in the timing cover were coming out. New timing cover redid the electrical connection fits nice and snug started right up and running great. I do however have a P0171 fuel trim lean in bank 1 and 2. Researched what I have to do there so doing that today.
Thanks to all of you for your info and knowledge again. This is the first time I've actually put this much time and energy into a vehicle and I fixed it without going to a shop so I proved alot to myself these last few months.
Thanks again.
Now onto my 2000 Blazer...

 

I refer you back to post #25. Glad to hear you got the primary problem taken care of and thanks for letting us know.

P.S. Did you have the CKP relearn done?

 

Stick your finger in#1cylinder and turn over until compression felt and than stick your driver in until reaching the Piston that's tdc on compression stroke