2001 4.3 wont start blue smoke
 

so the truck ran fine previous to the intake manifold replacement :icon_shrug:

assuming everything was properly done, 95% sure :icon_angel:

the truck will no longer start and I get lots of blue smoke from the tail pipe:icon_doh:

is this a symptom of the distributor off a few dgrees???

I will look at the plugs again tommorrow, and probaly fuel pressure after that but it is possible the distributor moved a few teeth forward or bak? I thought I had marked it well but the line was kinda wide and some of it wiped off after I cleaned the upper intake.

Thanks for any info, I wil keep searching the threads :)

blue smoke?
 

i thouht blue smoke was oil in the cylinder?

it does have some oil in the cylinders, hope thats not a serious problem?

I now have some oil in the cylinders because it was to displace the water :icon_doh: long story ....So the oil used to displace water and stop the oxidation would keep the motor from firing????

maybe if youre burning oil you should do a compression test cuz maybe your rings are shot. ive always pictured in my head that the piston rings are supposed to keep the oil out of the combustion chamber, but then again its MY HEAD, theres all sorts of crazy crap going on in there.

well the oil was added by me to get rid of any water left behind and possible oxidation. I am gonna keep trying wiht the pedal to the floor method and a couple new sets of plugs and keep my fingers crossed, LOL

here hondacharger, go to this link:
https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-generation-s-series-1995-2005-tech-41/any-ideas-34821/
i told spiderX how to check his timing (didn't want to rewrite it again, sorry)
this will a least tell you if your timing mark you made lined up properly again. you'd be amazed at how much one tooth on the distributor is actually out for the timing. you can move the distributor enough (usually) to make up for a tooth,but not two.
good luck.

edit (forgot to tell ya): when you reinstal the distributor, you can use a long, flat screw driver (or whatever is long enough to reach, that has a flat end) to "adjust", or turn, the shaft that comes up from the pump, to align the rotor in the proper spot of firing #1 (you're gonna need to mark the bottom plat of the distributoe to see where #1 position lines up with the cap) . a little trick i learn early on was to set the rotor behind (in the rotation) when sliding it down, as it will move forward (advance) as it fully engages the cam shaft gear.
again, good luck, and take your time if you've never done this before.

If you put oil into the cylinders then that could be causing your no start problem. Oil is not combustable like fuel is. A little bit of oil isnt going to cause a no start..... a lot of people are burning oil, but if you put a significant amout of oil into the cylinders then you might have issues. Also the plugs can get fouled and not spark if they get oil on them. Take a look at the plugs and see if there is oil on them.