Any ideas?
#1
Beginning Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 27

#3
New Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: buffalo, ny
Posts: 55

Sounds like it could possibly be a bad fuel pump. You need to check the fuel pressure, should be about 55-60psi in order for the engine to start.
If you dont have a fuel pressure gage one way to determine if its the pump is to spray a bit of starting fluid directly into the throttle body and try firing it up. If starts and remains running fine then you most likely do not have enough fuel pressure to start, at least that was the case on mine when the pump went.
P.S. if you want to keep your Automatic Lights OFF when you are trying to start it, so you dont run down the battery, put the emergency brake on while the key is off before you turn it to "on". This will keep the lights off.
If you dont have a fuel pressure gage one way to determine if its the pump is to spray a bit of starting fluid directly into the throttle body and try firing it up. If starts and remains running fine then you most likely do not have enough fuel pressure to start, at least that was the case on mine when the pump went.
P.S. if you want to keep your Automatic Lights OFF when you are trying to start it, so you dont run down the battery, put the emergency brake on while the key is off before you turn it to "on". This will keep the lights off.
#4
the hard crank (when the lights go dim) almost sound like a cylinder is "full" or "closed".
by "full", i mean the cylinder sounds like it's trying to compress a "liquid" (like coolant), not a "gas" (like air & vapourized fuel). this is the same sounds my '92 made when starting it after i blew the head gasket, and had to keep driving it for the rest of the week before i fixed it.
by "closed", i mean it sounds like the valves are both shut (not following the valve train) ever have any weird bangs or something happen before this problem? maybe you broker something inside the engine (push rod?)?
like reelbrok2 said, a video gives us no clue what you have already diagnosed. so tell us a bit about the truck, and what you've already tried.
by "full", i mean the cylinder sounds like it's trying to compress a "liquid" (like coolant), not a "gas" (like air & vapourized fuel). this is the same sounds my '92 made when starting it after i blew the head gasket, and had to keep driving it for the rest of the week before i fixed it.
by "closed", i mean it sounds like the valves are both shut (not following the valve train) ever have any weird bangs or something happen before this problem? maybe you broker something inside the engine (push rod?)?
like reelbrok2 said, a video gives us no clue what you have already diagnosed. so tell us a bit about the truck, and what you've already tried.
#5
Beginning Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 27

Yea I was in a bit of a hurry when I posted it.
But its a 2001 2dr blazer 4x4
I have replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump last year.
I checked the fuel pressure its 62 at key on,motor not running. When it was running at idle it was 53.
Checked each spark plug yesterday. They are wet.
Checked the coil and its getting spark there. Nice blue spark.
Havent checked the spark by grounding the spark plug to the block yet.
New battery.
Truck has 35K on it. Bought it 2nd hand in '04.
Never had any starting problems until May '09. The died spot when trying to start it is happening much more now then it was over the summer.
Never heard any bangs in the motor at all.
The only thing was the last time I had it running it was like it wanted to shut off and then quickly regained power and kept running. This happened twice last week. Once when I was going down a hill and then back up the hill.
Went to use the truck on Sunday after it sat for 2-3 days and found it in the above video situation.
But its a 2001 2dr blazer 4x4
I have replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump last year.
I checked the fuel pressure its 62 at key on,motor not running. When it was running at idle it was 53.
Checked each spark plug yesterday. They are wet.
Checked the coil and its getting spark there. Nice blue spark.
Havent checked the spark by grounding the spark plug to the block yet.
New battery.
Truck has 35K on it. Bought it 2nd hand in '04.
Never had any starting problems until May '09. The died spot when trying to start it is happening much more now then it was over the summer.
Never heard any bangs in the motor at all.
The only thing was the last time I had it running it was like it wanted to shut off and then quickly regained power and kept running. This happened twice last week. Once when I was going down a hill and then back up the hill.
Went to use the truck on Sunday after it sat for 2-3 days and found it in the above video situation.
#6
it definately sounds like a timing issue. i'd check the timing for statrers. i know the truck is not running (making it a little more labour intensive to check), but you need to pull SP #1, and the left rocker cover. rotate the engine so that you can see the valves moving on #1. have something sticking in the #1 SP hole (something that wont damage/scratch anyting inside the cylinder) and watch the valves until they are both closed (on the upstroke for firing) and when the piston is almost at the top, look to see where the timing mark is, in relation to the piston coming to TDC. the lines shold match up just before this.
#7
Beginning Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 27

Problem solved!!!! Cap & Rotor...... Thanks for all the replies guys!!!!
toaks1- thanks for the e. brake tip Worked Great. How you figure that one out?
Never thought an e brake would kill the healights
toaks1- thanks for the e. brake tip Worked Great. How you figure that one out?
Never thought an e brake would kill the healights
Last edited by spiderx; 09-18-2009 at 08:56 PM.
#8
spiderx, why don't you use your parking brake? hell, why is it most ppl never use their parking brake? that's what it's for-parking! not an "e brake" as in "emergency" brake. it's used for keeping the strain of parking off of the "park" position in your trans, and posibly causing your trans to get locked in park (like when parking on a hill).
sorry if i sound like i'm going on a rant hee but it burns me, when ppl have no idea what it's for, they usually respond with, "well the car/truck isn't standard, so it doesn't matter". if you vehicle is standard, it can take the load of the vehicle weight on it, the gears are made of steel. but you auto trans only works under hydraulic pressure, so theres nothing to engauge when the engine is off.
sorry spiderx, i wasn't going off on you, this was just the right sounding board for this "comment" (or rant if you wanna call it that). i just had a big "discussion" with my BF wife this weekend, after fixing her trans because she still seems to think she doesn't need to use it.
glad to hear it was a simple fix, even if it was aggravating as hell.
oh yeah, the parking brake has doesn't turn off the HL, it's your daytime running lights. unless it's @ night, and your truck has the auto light crap feature (like mine), it'll turn on your HL automatically-a real pain-in-the-*** for trying to "flash" your lights!
Last edited by old skool luvr; 09-20-2009 at 10:46 PM.
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