Just under 71,000 miles on vehicle. Truck stalled going down road and would not restart. After few attemps battery dead. Towed home and charged battery all night still dead and replaced with new. Has 60psi fuel pressure and held all day. Cranked but no spark. While cranking had pop like a backfire from intake but distributor has not been touched. Have checked all fuses. Have power going to coil but no spark at plug so replaced coil and still no spark. Cap, rotor, plugs and wires replaced 6 months ago. Any help would be great..Thanks!

 

Jumped timing? A compression test will tell you if the cam is still timed properly to the crank.

Bad ICM or Coil? You can remove both of these and have them tested at most autoparts stores. Have them tested at least 10 times in quick succession to get them up to operating temperature.

 

Thanks Swartlkk,

I had taken the coil off and took it to Autozone to have tested. The guy looked in his test manual and for some reason could not test that year so I just bought a new coil. Installed new coil but still no spark. Sorry to seem stupid but what is the ICM. I have worked on cars for years but never fuel injection, so this is all new.

I would think that even if it had jumped timing that I would still have a spark. Also to jump timing it seems that I would really be putting pedal to the metal but I was going slow.

Thanks
Frank

 

ICM = Ignition Control Module.

It is located on the same bracket as the coil. It is the part that has a heat sink attached to it.

 

Yeah, As soon as I sent the question I realized what it stood for but did not know where it was located, thanks. Wondering if it could be the crankshaft position sensor? I've just got home from working and too dark to look at truck tonight. Under the rotor there is a electronic part, is that for spark advance like the old vacuum advance? Could that cause a problem? Another thing I was thinking, is there a problem with maybe a pin that has sheared off the gear on bottom of distributor? I had cap and rotor off, grabbed the plate rotor sits on and it felt tight. Did not know if that was a problem with these motors.

I'm just pulling my hair out because my daughter needs it running soon and I need all the help I can get.

Thanks Again!

 

The item under the rotor inside the distributor is the CMP (camshaft position) sensor. The engine should be able to run without a proper signal from the CMP sensor.

The CKP sensor is located in the front timing cover near the harmonic balancer. If this goes bad or if there is a wiring issue between the CKP sensor and the PCM, the engine will not run.

Both sensors should trigger a code.

 

Found the problem....The gear at bottom of distributor sheared off and bushing worn out, shaft has slop in it. Bought new distributor and installed. Since gear sheared off not sure about where to set. I aligned using mark on damper to casting line on cover. Had 50/50 chance to get it right. Timing a little off but did get backfire and smoke out of intake. Getting late and will finish tomorrow. At least I now know I've got fire .

I found it by taking off cap. After looking at position of rotor I started to think, after all the cranking it sure looked like it was in the same position it was the last time I had cap off What are the odds of that? Grabbed rotor and sure enough, I could turn it and shaft moved around....Hummmm, This can't be good.

 

That would do it! Check out the 96+ engine timing thread in the Tech Article (DIY) section.

 

Hey Swartlkk,

Thanks for the timing info. I was timing it to the pin right at the #1 plug wire like the top post not realizing that the#1 pin was on the other side. So thanks buddy got it running. Started up but seemed to be lacking power. Checked wiring and found I had 2 wires switched. Running like a champ. Just to let you know..All the frigging parts on the 2002 that took to Autozone,the ICM, coil and the crank position sensor, they for some reason, can't check. Go figure. But as it turned out sheared pin on bottom of distributor, hadn't seem that for a long time.

Thanks again for your help....You the man.

 

Glad you got it repaired and back on the road!