Installation Guide:
Installing The Cylinder Heads

 

Nice guide! Thank You!

 

Might want to recheck fuel pressure and leakdown after you get it back together. Both of your results are low. KOEO, fuel pump running needs to be 60psi to 66psi and it must remain above 55psi for at least 10 minutes after the pump shuts off. Don't worry about engine running pressure, GM does not publish any engine running pressures for this system.

 

Thanks Hook. Will do when she's running tomorrow. Head is on, full 150 PSI on compression check now on 1,3, and 5.

Gotta finish hooking up the flange for the Y pipe tomorrow, put the belt on, re-install steering shaft, cap/wires, and she should be going strong.

They really don't make that drivers side head easy to do the torque degree with eh? Had a hell of a time getting that thing done.

I am not sure why I didnt do a compression check after the fuel pressure check. Thinking the 300 is usually secondary ignition really threw me for a loop. I was a GM tech for a number of years. I suppose i'm getting old :-)

 

She's running like a top today. Only thing that came up was P1345. Going to redo the distributor tomorrow. I know I am at least one tooth off. I marked it, but I have taken that thing out twice in the last week, and I forgot what marks where what :-(.

Should be easy enough. TDC #1 on Compression. Check Balancer for line to be at the V mark. Make sure the dist. is lined up right, slide in, and should be at the #6 imprinted on the dist plate.


Quick question, well 2 really;

1. These screw holes for the caps are junk on these distributors. Anyone know a fix for this? Should I drill them out a small bit and use a bigger screw, or what?

2. Oil pressure hot at idle? Gauge seems a little low (had this before I fixed with it) doesn't knock or anything, but it's below 40. But it rises while driving, etc. Also a little over 40 when the engine is cold.

 

No "V" mark, both lines need to be positioned like this:



As for the distributor cap screw holes, an aluminum distributor will cure the problem once and for all. Skip White has them online at an excellent price, both on their website and Ebay.

 

Nevermind, I found the two marks.

First should be at the V and the second should be at what looks like 5 o'clock?

 

Yup, and if you rotate the crank by hand to line it up, make sure you only turn it clockwise, (never counter clockwise) then make sure the rotor is pointing at or near the "6" on the distributor, (they usually don't line up perfectly). Then pull the distributor and reset. Might have to turn the oil pump drive a bit to get the distributor to fall all the way in. Keep in mind that when aligning the marks, they will line up with #1 piston at TDC compression and TDC exhaust, that's why it's important to make sure the rotor is at least close to the "6" before you pull it, (not off 180 degrees).

 

Thanks for the help Hook. Did exactly this and she worked great. Purs like a kitten, and no more p1345!

She's finally ready for sale.

This forum is an invaluable resource!

 

Shinned her up today, and she's out on the road for sale!

Thanks again for all of your help guys. Slowly but surely my automotive diagnostics skills are starting to make a return.