Hey Everybody,

I have a few questions to ask you all reguarding my 2003 Chevy Blazer. I know there are alot of smart members here so this is the place to ask, but first let me give you a quick yet extended break-down.

• 2003 2wd Blazer purchased used in 2005 in near mint condition (needed tires, wipers, fluids, basic service; body and basic mech. fine)
• Had ~60k now has 101k so thats ~40k in five years
• I had to replace brake system pc due to error that created a 360 spin off into the ditch, everything & everyone was thankfully safe.
• Never have had a full tune up, but had the entire brake system replaced 20 months ago.
• Rear driver tire tread blew off going 60 mph, ripping off my catalic converter. Multiple mechanincs say that although my engine light is on and my fuel economy will suffer, I do not need it. I have gone to several junk yards & U-pull its (espeacially after the cash for clunkers program) and could never find the unit to replace it (all different specs.)
• New tires within the last 6 months.
• I regularly change my oil and oil/air filters, and check fluids.
• Again I stress that I have never had a full tune up (spark plugs/wires, etc).

Now the Problem.......

Several days ago I drove to the post office with no problems. When I came out of the post office and started my car it started then stalled. I thought maybe a fluke so I tried it again, and again it stalled. I then noticed that when my rpm's fell below 400 it would run ruff for a second then stall out. So I did the double foot nuetral gas, quick shift to drive/reverse, back to neutral reving thing all the way across the city to my mechanic.

The mechanic I took it to is a good, non corprate guy who services many big buisnesses in the area and most of my friends. Point being, he's a good 'ol boy who doesn't inflate prices or jack up your problem (ie add on false issues). He hooked it up to the sensor and this is what he told me.

• Nothing is showing up on the computer except for a couple misfires
• Your vacume tubes, etc are all fine, I see no signs of engine or other damage.
• Your coil is arcing
• One of your wires is shorting onto a hose
• You should probably change your spark plugs
• You probably need your air intake to be cleaned
• I turned your idle up so it doesn't stall

So I've had it now for about a week and its running fine, but I notice if my rpms go down to ~500 it shudders, and my oil gauge fluctuates with it. So my question to you all are this...

• What is a coil, is it a distributor? Is it easy to replace myself
• Does this vehicle have a distributor cap?
• I saw where the wire is shorting/burning/melting onto another hose, so I'm gonna change it out but is there any easy wasy to change the plugs myself without disengaging the steering column?
• Do you have any other ideas/recommendations as to why this problem literraly popped out of no where.

I should note that when all this had happened my engine check light actually was off for the first time since my catalitic converter fell off.

I know this was a long post but I wanted to give you all the most information I could to help you help me. And to prevent wasting your time I have searched the forums and the internet for awnesers to many of my questions with no avail, thus why I am relying on you. If any of you know of a site that has the schematics for free for a 2003 please fill me in. I await you advice and thank you for your patience.

-Dark Rider

 

Do you see the connections here? Did the mechanic do a complete tune-up, including changing the wires? If not, that is the place to start. Replace the ignition coil if it is 'arcing', no it is not a distributor and yes, you have a distributor cap. There are plenty of threads here discussing spark plug removal methods. How did he 'turn up' your idle? It is controlled by the PCM, throttle position sensor, and idle air control valve, you don't just 'turn it up'. What kind of 'schematics' are you looking for? From the questions you ask, I recommend getting a service manual and learning about the mechanics of your vehicle.

 

rriddle,

I thank you for your quick response. The mechanic did not do a tune up or change the wires. And I am doing that immediatly after this corprate holiday that forces men to spend money on their girls to prove their love (yes I mean the b.s. valentines day). Now that I know more about the ig. coil i will change it. As for the idle, all he said is I turned up your idle, so it now idles at ~600. And for the schematics you are right, a service manual is exactly what I need, for there are many sections I need. I was just hoping that there was a site out there that gave out free schematics.

Depending on how my financial situation is by the end of this weekend I plan on changing either the the coil, plugs, wires, or all depending on the cost. I know it is best to do it all at the same time I just am short on cash and I know it is something I can do myself as opposed to having a mechanic charge an extra $100 for something that at worse will take me an after noon.

Again I thank you for your help and continue to welcome any new insight.

-Dark Rider

 

Here is the order and brands I would go with.
#1. Replace distributor cap and rotor (AC/Delco).
#2-3. Replace ignition wires (any high quality brand). Replace spark plugs (AC/Delco #41-993 double platinums). At your mileage plugs may be optional.
#4. Replace air filter (Wix, Purolator).
#5. Replace fuel filter (Wix, Purolator).

 

rriddle,
I can't thank you enough for your help/advice, and most importantly your recs. on the brands. I've gathered from what I've read that it does matter as to what product you use. I will follow your advice as soon as I get the $ (next check on Fri). I will come back to this thread and update you as to it's performance. It will prob. be next week but I will let you all know. It is just weird how my car ran fine and then all of the sudden out of no where it decides to fail me. Anyway, again I thank you for your guidance.

-Dark Rider

 

Hey all,

Well, this is the first update. I've been busy with other projects at the same time so haven't gotten much done really. But I did do the following.

• Changed the oil, and oil filter and MAN DID IT NEED IT. Last "due date" was Dec. 18 or 100k and I was at Feb 19 and 102.8k. Came out dark as molasses and the oil filter weighed nearly twice as much as the new one.
• Chanaged the pcv valve. Has NEVER been done I don't think. It costed $1.79 and took less than a minute in all actuality. The one I pulled out didn't rattle like it is supposed to and had chunks clogging it (air still easily passed).
• Took off and examined distributor cap & rotor. Rotor is great, distributor needs replacement. There was white/grey/red corrosion growth all over the contact points and the center.
• Checked two spark plugs. They seem fine, a little brown & threads rusty, but the contact point looks fine. This has me wondering if I should put it off or do it now.
• I need new wires, 3 I pulled off had corrosion in the boot.
• Getting ignition coil checked right after sending this out.

I hope the ignition coil is fine so I don't need to replace it, but I plan on replacing the distributor cap asap.

The car still shudders if the rpms fall below 500 when fluctuating, hope its just a needed ignition tune up!

Dark Rider

 

rriddle, and all else who care to read,

I do not want to jump to conclusions, as I haven't been able to test drive that long but... I owe you a beer!!!! I will be posting pics within the next week of everything I have done (not that much). It has taken a while due to finances (I'm truely poor), but I followed your list....

• New Distributor Cap (Duralast, 2 places I went to didn't have Delco). Don't think I needed that.
• New Delco plugs @ $6.50 a pop, while needed, they were'nt all that bad.
• Air filter.... Didn't do b/c I put a new one in last oil change and it is still white.
• Fuel Filter....... I took it off, turned it over and it $hat rocks all into the catch cup!!!!!!! I took pics. Since I bought the car 5 years ago I haven't had a full tune up (ie fuel filter). I geuss 5 years of fuel sediment built up within the filter and solidified into a rock the size of a dime. Once I put the new filter on the problem seems to have stopped. What I assumed was happening is that when the truck was idleing the fuel pump wasn't pulling that hard and as a result the rock was obstructing the little flow needed to sustain power.

Again my only problem has been when the vehicle was idleing, and it pretty much came out of no where.... So what I am going to do is drive it around for a week, If I don't notice the rpms fluctuating, or a rough/irradic idle/stall, then I will take it to my mechanic to turn the rpms back down.

So within the last 3 weeks I have 1) Changed my oil; 2) Changed Distributor cap (Still need rotor as its contact point looks jacked up); 3) Changed Plugs (They were'nt horrible but it was def. time) 4) Changed PCV valve (air flowed, but it barely rattled, it was gunky); 5) Changed fuel filter (pics coming soon of poss. problem cause); 6) added a fuel injector cleaner to fuel (I don't believe in it but the guy sold me on it). In total I have spent roughly $125. Alot of money for me right now.... But seeing how the mechanic I took it to thought it was the spark plugs (which it wasn't) and he wanted $250 to do the job, I feel that besides checking timing I did a near full tune up for $125 less!!!!

I just wanted to update you all, and I will be adding pictures soon to show you all the condition of my parts that I switched out. Till then..

Take It Easy,
Dark Rider