Unlatch the clip and the line should slide off very easily. Put some clean motor oil on the fitting before you reinstall the line.

 

Sorry for delay I hope to get this in the next several days before I am away for a month and half. This is a real stupid question but this code doesn't 100% for sure mean the solenoid is the defective part? ( I know one tests it but this code seems like a mechanic should have to test a ton of different things and not just got out and buy the part because the code says so... ) Correct?


I've had a thermostat code once and it was for sure a thermostat.

 

DTC's, (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) never tell you to replace a part. They only tell you what circuit is/was out of range, or had/has a malfunction. It's up to you to pinpoint the problem. EVAP DTC's are the most difficult ones to diagnose, and yes, it could be any one or more of several things. I am suggesting that you check the valve. Based on your symptoms and DTC, that would be the most logical place to start. If the valve is OK, following the diagnostic flow chart will be necessary.

 

Hi,

I took some pictures and wrote down what I did, I had to get a lot of the electrical and antifreeze hoses out of the way to access it.

I removed the device.

I have it in front of me and I used my might vac to apply pressure to the nipple side that connects to the line that goes to the back of the tank and air just pushes through the device.

It is not closed in it's stationary position.

When I put my finger over top of the hole underneath that goes to manifold and apply vacuum, it holds no problem.

I applied the mightyvac to the underneath hole(plenum) location on the solenoid and air went right through.

I'm assuming the part is defective as it should allow vacuum to build via either opening without me holding my finger on either end?

correct?

Should I apply to 12v battery power from my spare battery in garage and see if solenoid shuts?

Any help would be great.

A couple things I heard when I had the engine running prior to removal.

1 - I heard a hiss underneath hood however not sure if it's related or normal
2 - I see there is a green valve at the evap line that can be turned. Its default state should be to the right full revolutions ( CLOSED ) , correct?

THANKS CAPTAIN HOOK!

 

Just found this on another site. it appears it is defective:

If you don't have access to the scan tool, you couldalways disconnect the vacuum line at the purge valve going back to the charcoalcanister. Unplug the electrical connector on the purge valve, start the engine,then put your finger on the valve where you disconnected the line. If you canfeel vacuum there, the purge solenoid valve is faulty and needs to be replaced.Alternately, you could simply remove the purge solenoid valve and blow into it.It is normally closed, so if air goes through then you need to replace it.

 

1. The hiss was most likely from the purge solenoid.
2. The green cap is a service port for attaching special tools for diagnosing the EVAP system. Clockwise to tighten it, make sure it's finger tight closed.

Your purge solenoid is faulty. Could be it just failed in the open position, or there might be some debris holding it open, (charcoal from the canister). If it's charcoal, the canister needs to be replaced and the lines thoroughly cleaned out. If you don't, the same thing is going to happen again.

 

Captain Hook, I don't know what I'd do without you!

Thank you so much for all your help!

I've ordered the part, it's $40 Canadian.

If the problem repeats its self I know where to look next.

Curious since the part is defective, why don't I force it open somehow and search for the charcoal?

 

Good idea, take it apart, if you find charcoal bits in there, you know you're fixing the symptom and not the root cause of the problem. If the thing is just plain old stuck open, you know you found the root cause.

 

Success!

Put the new part in, the rubber seal goes around the part that goes into the intake manifold and there was no gasket before or in the new box so maybe it's a Canada design or something?

Made sure green **** was turned clockwise finger tight.

Hooked everything back up.

Fired the truck up about 5 hours later and boom no CHECK ENGINE LIGHT!!!

That fast!

Still hear a small hiss noise but perhaps that's normal, I'll look around for hoses that could be leaking.

BUT ALL IN ALL SUCCESS!!!!!!! YES I DID IT!!!!!

Fixed 2 check engines lights so far in my hobby as wanna be mechanic!!!

THANKS CAPTAIN HOOK!!!

On to my other thread regarding engine tune up/tranny shutter!

tune up will continue tomorrow!

 

The purge solenoid has to have an O ring, or a seal of some sort, where it goes in the plenum, or it will leak vacuum and cause a "hiss".

You'll need to perform the General Motors Driving Cycle to make sure the EVAP monitor runs, completes, and passes its tests. If the monitor is incomplete, the SES light will not come on, (innocent until proven guilty). You can check I/M readiness status on a scan tool to find out if the monitor has completed. If it says "complete", and no SES light, you're good to go.