I used the red for hot with was the top pin and neg was the middle, will try a different ground. There is no SEN light on so have not check for any codes, the only codes so far have been bank 1/2 rich(fuel regulator) and the ECT was bad sorry don't have the exact code but freeze frame data said the ECT saying -40. For the faulty CKP will it have to run for a bit for it to come up or will it come right up if just turned on?
Today will get a fuel filter.

 

Here are two of the CKP codes:
P0336 - CKP (crankshaft position) Sensor Circuit A Range/Performance
P0339 - CKP (crankshaft position) Sensor Circuit Intermittent

The wiring schematic is located in those threads. The pink wire should show battery voltage when connected to a suitable ground (not one of the other wires). The other two wires go back to the PCM and should show a relatively low resistance from the CKP connector pin to the corresponding pin at the PCM. A CKP code should set right away unless it is the intermittent code.

Pending codes may not illuminate the SES light. It would still be worth while to check the codes if you can.

This is probably the code you received for the ECT sensor:
P0118 - Engine Coolant Temperature [ECT] Sensor Circuit High Voltage

 

replaced the fuel filter
and put the old CKP back in
going to do a drive soon

 

I drove it some, was able to get above 70mph but still the bogged down when to much gas is given to it. I thought it was getting better the more I drove it, but i came back home to eat then went and started it and seems just as bad as when I first started to drive it.

Will try to get it scanned, with no light on what should I be looking for?
Thanks

 

I drove it to auto zone ran ok but starting was slow. Light was off but on the way there it turned on.
Codes: c0281, c0266, p1153, p0174
C0281 - Brake Switch Circuit
C0266 - EBCM Motor Relay Circuit High when off
P1153…. . O2 Sensor low switching (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0174....System too Lean (Bank 2)
So it running lean and don't no why i am getting abs codes now, maybe it was left in the scanner....but no abs light was on

could I have hit some of the wires when changing plugs?

 

Do you have any vacuum leaks or possibly an exhaust leak on the passenger side before the O2 sensor?

If your ABS light isn't on, I'm not sure I would worry too much about the abs codes. They could be history codes.

 

The exhaust system is bent, hit hard snow last year in reverse. So that could be a good start. I will order 2 new o2 sensor also.
Thanks for the help swartlkk

 

I replaced the o2's, not help but still a good tune up part. Drove it and was ok at first but later it would not go unless I put it to the floor. I have been looking up on the vacuum lines, and specific one's to test?

 

I replaced the vacuum lines from the fender to the T and from the T to the thing on the firewall(in the middle) and to the top of the engine.
Still does does not run any better and I also took the spider injector off, should I order a new one or what is the best way to clean the injectors?

 

I believe if you had a bad, clogged or sticking injector (bad enough to cause the problem your describing) you would have a misfire code. I would check the MAF and the airbox and filter, make sure its assembled properly. No air leaks between the throttle body and filter. Those injectors are expensive. They do have a after market assembly for about half the cost of replacing all the injectors, but I don't know the verdict on them. You could get the whole assembly from a bone yard and do a swap cheap. If a single injector was bad you would have extras. A bad injector could be pinpointed by swapping injector positions and seeing if the misfire code changes cylinders, but you have no misfire codes.