I just changed the plugs and wires on my 1995 Blazer 4.3. I also want to replace the distributor cap and rotor. How do you do this? It doesn't look like theres enough room to remove the cap or get to the screws that hold it on. Does anyone know any tricks to doing this job?
Thanks

1995 S10 Blazer LT
4.3, auto trans,4wd
147,000 miles

 

the easiest way to get @ this is to use your 1/4" drive sockets/extensions. you'll need the 7/32 socket, a 3" extension, a universal joint, and your nut driver handle. as a bonus, you can use your 6" extension between the universal & the handle to give you more reach.

i've listed the tools in order of how to assemble them. if you don't have a 1/4" universal joint, you can just use your 1/4" drive ratchet on top of the 3" extension, but i can't rememeber if you'll need to use a deep socket to clear the top of the cap if you're doing it this way though.

when you replace the cap, you'll notice that the cap has a little lip on the square opening. this needs to be lined up with the groove on the ignition module that's under the cap. but don't worry if you don't get it on the first shot, you'll realize right away it's not sitting right, 'cause the screws won't go in right. if the cap can "twist" or rotate at all, then it's not sitting in the groove. use a mirror if you need to, but it's really not that difficult to do.

 

Thanks old skool. That helps alot but I'm also wondering how to get the cap out of there, or the wires off of it. I can't get my big hands anywhere near the thing.

 

If the cap is anything like the 2000 LT 4x4 4.3, it has those funny spider like screws. I took one of mine spider type screwdrivers and cut the handle off by half, that did the trick. It was still a long strecth, but I have a two step stool and I use that and lean over and it help out a lot (of course putting something over the fender so I wouldn't scratch it.

I haven't change the plugs wires yet, but its do (98,500) and plan on doing the cap and rotor (again) and the plug wires at 100,000. ( I did the cap and rotor at 50,000 and the plugs, I know old school stuff, the plugs were excellent, but the cap and rotor did look like they needed it.)

 

two things with your post dman, the cap on his '95 is the old style, and "those funny spider like screws" are called Torx fasteners (T20 i believe).

you're going 50,000 miles on your cap & rotor!?! that's unbelieveable! i change mine every year (about 40,000km/25,000 miles) and it's toast buy then.

 

I forgot to mention I have the cap that has the terminals off to the side(horizontal) instead of on top.

 

Yeah, 95's could be either way. The removal process is practically the same for both. You have to feel your way to getting it apart. It can be a challenge. If you do not have a mechanics mirror, pick one up. They come in handy.

 

I changed the original cap & rotor on my daughter's 96 at 185,000 miles. But it really did not look to bad and wasn't giving any trouble.

 

really? on a '95?..........doesn't matter, still the same deal with removal, but you'll need a T20 Torx bit for the screws.
i don't know just how big your hands are louie, but i have pretty large hands myself, and it's really not that bad to do it.
when you're pulling off the wires, just take a black marker, and number the wires & cap terminals as you take them off the cap. when you put the new cap on, you can use the old cap to know where the wires go (saves explaining what the firing order is, where #1 is, etc.)

 

are you saying that the horizontal type cap that I have on my 95 takes a #20 torx instead of the 7/32" socket that you metioned before?