2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech Discuss 2nd generation S-series (1995-2005) general tech topics here.

4x4 problems

Old Feb 16, 2011 | 01:54 PM
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Smile 4x4 problems- SOLVED

I know this can be frustrating for some of you who may view this post because I am clueless when it comes to vehicles. I just bought a 95 Blazer a week ago. It ran fine. 4 wheel drive worked great until last night. I drove the truck all day yesterday with no problems until I tried to go to the store last night. Its a 4 door, 6 cyl. vortec if that helps any. It is stuck in 4 low. when I push the 2H you can hear a winding noise like its trying to do 'something' but will not disengage. I've tried disconnecting the battery to reset it and that did nothing. I've been relentlessly pouring over the posts in this forum for clues. I get the whole concept of the TCCM and TCEM but have no idea what any of this looks like or where they could be. Vaccuum Actuator? Actuator? Look, Im a single mother of 3 and have been without a vehicle for 3 months and thought I made a good choice with the Blazer. My income is limited and have no clue where to go or what to do. Thank you.
 

Last edited by JuneBugg; Feb 18, 2011 at 10:09 PM.
Old Feb 17, 2011 | 11:38 AM
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did you put it in 4 low or did it go into 4 low on it's own?

car has to be stopped and in Neutral to disengage 4 low
 
Old Feb 17, 2011 | 01:52 PM
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I too have the same 95 blazer as you junebug, i had nearly the same winding noise but i could'nt get into any 4x4 mode, so i :
-took out the battery &tray it sits on (3bolts)
-from there i seen a big *** rip accross the rubber booted actuator
-removed it,unhook the vacum connection,the cable,and unbolted it(2bolts) under the passenger side fender,and put new actuator on.
4x4 now functioning as it supposed to be.

Part was: $223!!What a rip off after looking at how these things are actually made;a rubber diaphram,some simple plastic and a big spring,probably cost $30 tops to make.
 

Last edited by blzR; Feb 17, 2011 at 02:45 PM.
Old Feb 17, 2011 | 07:56 PM
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the biggest question i have for you JuneBugg is.........why were you driving in 4LO? that should only be used when traversing very rough terrain @ low speeds (ie: under 40kmh/25mph)

now aside from that, you have to do what Tinted said above. when stopped, put truck in Neutral and press either 4HI or 2HI.


don't be fearful of what's going on with your truck, it's all pretty straight forward, and if you can turn a wrench (or swing a BFH) you can fix 'er.

let us know what you find out.
 
Old Feb 18, 2011 | 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by blzR
Part was: $223!!What a rip off after looking at how these things are actually made;a rubber diaphram,some simple plastic and a big spring,probably cost $30 tops to make.
If you paid 223 bucks for a new actuator you got ripped off. Advance Auto has the actuator listed online for 49.99, there is no way it'd be any more than that in the store. I'm sure places like Auto Zone and Napa are similar prices. Sorry to hear about your luck on the price.
 
Old Feb 18, 2011 | 12:20 PM
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@Old Skool Luvr, I wasn't driving in 4 Low. I do know better than that. LOL!! Because of the snow we've had here in MO. I had put it in 4 low to get up the slushy *** hill we live on. Parked the truck and when I tried to leave again it would not come out of 4 low. Both the 4L and 4H lights were on and no disengagement was accomplished. And yes I do stop the vehicle, put it in N, and engage or disengage.
@Blzr, Thank you so much for that information. I had thought it was the actuator but it wasn't. I couldn't get it to come out of 4wheel drive. What it actually turned out to be was broken gears in the motor next to the transfer case. We believe that something whacky happened with the brain of the computer. I had let my brother attempt to install a stereo and he tapped into some wires that he shouldnt have even bothered with. So, Thankfully I am on the road again!! The guy I bought the Blazer from came out yesterday and had it fixed within two hours!! Thanks Chris! You are the bomb-diggity!!!

Oh! and by the way I was able to pick up a new shift motor for 50 dollars at Poores Auto Salvage about a mile from my house. Could have picked it up for $35 but could not see driving all the way to Joplin to pick it up, it would have ended up costing me $50 in the long run if you add gas costs to the $35. The guy who fixed it for me only charged me $25 for labor. Awesome!!
 

Last edited by swartlkk; Feb 18, 2011 at 01:36 PM. Reason: *Combining Consecutive Posts* - Please use the EDIT feature to add additional information to your post if another member yet to respond.
Old Feb 18, 2011 | 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by jbsnowboarder16
If you paid 223 bucks for a new actuator you got ripped off. Advance Auto has the actuator listed online for 49.99, there is no way it'd be any more than that in the store. I'm sure places like Auto Zone and Napa are similar prices. Sorry to hear about your luck on the price.
Hey jbsnowborder,
I could give you my(canadian) mailing info and you could ship parts directly to me
with a..? $50 ..? finders fee?(i'd pay all else/s/h)
My area absolutely steals from the locals here as it is the only chev dealership parts store around.
P.s. i paid $790 for the spider &$ 400 for a new signal switch also!..just think of all the spare cash
you could make off me jb to buy your wife new shoes with!
 

Last edited by blzR; Feb 18, 2011 at 01:08 PM.
Old Feb 18, 2011 | 05:18 PM
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@ blzR: you can't be serious? have you even looked @ any of the aftermarket guys (like Canadian Tire)

stop going to the dealer for your parts.

lets not jack this girls thread anymore guys.
 

Last edited by old skool luvr; Feb 18, 2011 at 05:36 PM. Reason: removed references.
Old Feb 18, 2011 | 09:18 PM
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holy crap! srsly blzR pm me your info and I'll send u stuff (kingston, ontario), OR better yet.... www.RockAuto.com <<< MAKE that your friend. oh ya, AVOID the dealership at all costs btw. n don't b afraid of junk yard parts for the most.


back on topic, Glad you got your 4x4 issue resolved ever quickly!
 
Old Feb 18, 2011 | 09:53 PM
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Went to the gm dealer in vt
wanted $50.00 for the rear differential pin
i said keep it went home got the file out
and filed the burrs off my old one
slide right in screw the dealers
 

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