Okay, here's another update.

I think I reported earlier that I kept randomly getting a buzzing sound from under the dash while the lights were on. The blinking off and on had stopped, but the buzzing gradually got worse.

Finally, the headlight switch totally fried the weekend before last. I knew it was the switch because of the burning smell and smoke coming directly from that area. Since I was leaving for L.A. the next day, I went to Advance and ordered the part, so that it would get here by the time I got back.

I installed the new switch yesterday, and now the lights work perfectly. No blinking, no buzzing. I was a little worried it was the connector itself and not the switch, because one of the holes on the connector had a big burn mark on it. However, the connector survived.

I was also concerned that maybe the voltage in the H4s was greater than the regular sealed beams. For this reason, I took a trip to AutoZone before the install and compared the voltage rating of the H4s with that of the H4666 sealed beams. It was exactly the same, so I now know that was not an issue.

My backup plan was that in the event the H4s' voltage was wrong, I would buy a set of 9006 bulbs and replace the headlight wiring harness with the 98+ harness I have in the basement. I would have also gotten a set of fog lamps to function as highbeams. However, this was not necessary, so I saved some money and a couple more hours of work.

By the way, opening the dash in the '95-97s is pretty easy. I was able to do it in under an hour. It's just 6-8 bolts at the bottom, and then you undo the one screw on the left side of the gauges. You don't even have to remove any panels. Just pull it to the side and the switch pops right out.

 

You mean the wattage was the same

You can't really have different voltage ratings for something like that...

Should be 55 for low 65 for highs.

Maybe even 45/55..

But if the lights get their power directly from the switch, then it's really easy to add a relay for more power