Either both vehicles are perfect, or there is a glitch in the software of your scanner. Loosen the distributor hold down bolt and rotate the distributor slightly, then tighten the bolt. Check CMP retard after snapping the throttle over 2000 RPM. If CMP remains at zero, there is a problem with the scanner.

 

ok will buy a special wrench to get at the dizzy hold down bolt because I don't feel like sitting there for half an hour fiddling with the dam bolt with a wrench.


anyways... why is engine oil getting in my vac lines?

 

For the distributor: 10mm 1/4" drive swivel socket, 6" extension, and a ratchet, gets right on it, no fiddling around.



For the oil: See post #8. Check the lines at the connector for the transfer case vacuum switch. The only way for oil to get in the lines, is from the transfer case. It's probably brown due to the ATF deteriorating the rubber vacuum lines.

 

ive checked the transfer case lines and there all dry. the vac line that runs from the vac ball down to the t case is dry. the only lines that are oil soaked are the main vac line from pass rear intake manifold to the vac ball and the little hvac line. I know what your talking about the tcase seal leaking and whatnot. been through that with the 93 I used to have. I have already replaced the vac switch in tcase. I guess I could cap the tcase line and put in new line and see if it still does it? and the oil does not smell like atf at all.


good Idea on the swivel socket. but my bolt is bigger. the newer engines used the 10mm and the older ones used a bigger size. cant remember.

 

ok guys something different happened today. it was a little over 80F out and I had about a 15 min drive. parked and about 15 min later I tried to restart it and it would stumble then die. other times it would stumble a bit then take right off. but this time it died. then upon restart it just kept turning without firing, for about 3-4 seconds then it took off and ran fine other than from a stop like getting to about 15-20mph at around 2k rpm it would drop 2-300 rpms then pick right back up after just 2 seconds or so.


what do you guys think?


while cranking when no start it sounds like all cylinders have even amount of compression. doesn't sound any different.

 

I have exact same software/hardware setup and it read cam retard fine on my Blazer (which was not exactly zero and also changed slightly with RPMs). I added the cam retard to the default live display and all live data was displayed at the same time. Not sure what you are doing? I'll help if you are interested.

 

yea how did you set your scan xl up? I go to the graph section right click change pid to cmp and hit apply then start it up and hit play. still stays at zero. all other pid's work just fine on my 95 and 97.

 

I added the pid to the table in "tables and maps" tab.

 

I tried that today and it doesn't display anything in the values box for it. just blank when its recording data. I will have to try It on the 97 bravada and see what happens.