95 blazer no lockup
#1
08-14-2014, 10:33 PM
95 blazer no lockup
vin w VCM computer.
when bought had no lockup and 1-2 hard shift. had rebuilt. same issue. ive read and read and read just about every forum out there on tcc and pwm and no luck. took it back to shop multiple times. cant figure it out. scan tool can and will lockup the converter. computer on its own will not.
tps new
map good
brake switch works when cruise on and brake depressed it will come out of cruise.
vss working on scan tool shows mph
engine runs decent has lots of power
if you have anything else for me to check please say.
now onto my real problem
what I want to do since it wont lockup on its own is put a switch in to command lockup. I have a switch in dash going to ground and then the other side to the tcc wire from computer. its spliced in. soon to be on a relay so it wont trip engine light. and wont work. so I dropped the pan and modified the pwm solenoid by taking the oring off the tip and cutting a small groove into the metal so fluid will be able to move past the oring. and left oring off. still no luck. flip the switch nothing happens.
BUT when I had the pan off I noticed that the isolator valve had a piece of tubing where the spring was supposed to be. but it was loose in the bore and I could move the isolator valve a good 1/16th of a inch maby. with my finger nail. not sure if that's good. and im also not sure if the spring is still there or not, because of the tube is really big and the spring might be hiding inside it. but if I can move the valve by finger nail back and forth then what does that mean??? I don't know anything about how this is supposed to be. like if it has to have spring tension on it all the time. and if so there was none. but the tube stops the valve from going towards the back of the truck. but has play in it back in forth about 1/16 of an inch. so even though the pwm is bypassed and that valve having that much play would it still work or no. do I need to drop the pan again and stake that valve all the way towards the front of the truck?
also when cold and computer reset by taking battery off. it will go into lockup on the highway by itself but for only maby half a mile then it slips out. then nothing. when it does go into lockup when cold and brake depressed it will come out of lockup. so brake switch is working. but it only does this when I reset computer. after that and going onto highway it wont even try to lockup. no codes either.
I know this is long but I didn't want to miss anything. been trying to figure this out for over 7 months. thanks
when bought had no lockup and 1-2 hard shift. had rebuilt. same issue. ive read and read and read just about every forum out there on tcc and pwm and no luck. took it back to shop multiple times. cant figure it out. scan tool can and will lockup the converter. computer on its own will not.
tps new
map good
brake switch works when cruise on and brake depressed it will come out of cruise.
vss working on scan tool shows mph
engine runs decent has lots of power
if you have anything else for me to check please say.
now onto my real problem
what I want to do since it wont lockup on its own is put a switch in to command lockup. I have a switch in dash going to ground and then the other side to the tcc wire from computer. its spliced in. soon to be on a relay so it wont trip engine light. and wont work. so I dropped the pan and modified the pwm solenoid by taking the oring off the tip and cutting a small groove into the metal so fluid will be able to move past the oring. and left oring off. still no luck. flip the switch nothing happens.
BUT when I had the pan off I noticed that the isolator valve had a piece of tubing where the spring was supposed to be. but it was loose in the bore and I could move the isolator valve a good 1/16th of a inch maby. with my finger nail. not sure if that's good. and im also not sure if the spring is still there or not, because of the tube is really big and the spring might be hiding inside it. but if I can move the valve by finger nail back and forth then what does that mean??? I don't know anything about how this is supposed to be. like if it has to have spring tension on it all the time. and if so there was none. but the tube stops the valve from going towards the back of the truck. but has play in it back in forth about 1/16 of an inch. so even though the pwm is bypassed and that valve having that much play would it still work or no. do I need to drop the pan again and stake that valve all the way towards the front of the truck?
also when cold and computer reset by taking battery off. it will go into lockup on the highway by itself but for only maby half a mile then it slips out. then nothing. when it does go into lockup when cold and brake depressed it will come out of lockup. so brake switch is working. but it only does this when I reset computer. after that and going onto highway it wont even try to lockup. no codes either.
I know this is long but I didn't want to miss anything. been trying to figure this out for over 7 months. thanks
Last edited by bam_9_9_9; 08-14-2014 at 10:39 PM.
#7
08-28-2014, 12:53 AM
This link will help you, i think mine needs a new valve body, yours may too, https://blazerforum.com/forum/engine...learned-53410/
#8
08-28-2014, 10:15 PM
yea thanks for the input but I have favorited that link over 7 months ago. still no luck. trans mechanic says scan tool shows pressures all good. so no leakage. I would like somebody to chime in on how that isolator valve is supposed to work and if I should drop the pan again and stake that valve in the full open position. im half tempted to right now. but I just would like some more input.