With the test light, I poked the injector wire where it goes into the bigger wire harness and no voltage there either, the open must somewhere that isn't easily accessible. I'll just do as you suggested and connect to the canister purge solenoid wire.

Thanks. I'll post back here when I get it sorted.

 

Now I have voltage at the injector wire, key in run position. When I test drive my Blazer it runs but seems like it wants to stall on accel, almost like it's not running on all cylinders. I'm thinking it may be fuel problem. Things I recently replaced within a few months - coil, cap & rotor, spark plug wires, spark plugs, fuel pump. I haven't pulled the distributor yet, I was about to when I read your post about needing a scan tool. I got a fuel filter that I'm going to replace right now.

edit - the above was yesterday. Today it will not start. I was going to tape a fuel pressure gauge to the windshield and go for a ride. What causes it to start yesterday and not today, a bad pcm?

 

I got it started and drove it down the road. Still seems like it wants to stall under load. Fuel pressure is 52 to 57 psi driving down the road. After that I parked it and at idle the fuel pressure gauge now reads 52 psi, could that be a problem. I installed an aftermarket fuel pump (from autozone) about a month ago. The intermittent no start kind of makes me think it's not the fuel pump, maybe I have two problems.

 

Keep in mind that GM does not publish any "engine running" fuel pressure specs for this engine. Driving with the gauge on the windshield is fine to see if pressure drops out, and 52psi to 57psi could be ball park. To get an accurate idea of the condition of the fuel delivery system, the engine must be off. Ignition in the RUN position, (pump will run for ~2 seconds and shut off) fuel pump running, your 1995 CMFI pressure must be 55psi to 61psi. It must remain above 50psi for at least 10 minutes after the pump shuts off. Post your results.

 

That's what I was thinking. I'd hate to pull the fuel pump again. Initially turning on the key, the fuel pump reads 62, then drops to 58 after a few seconds, and slowly creeps down to 54 with the key off, and holds there.

I bought a PCM from craigs list for $25, I figured I would be out much money if that wasn't the problem, which it wasn't. Still want's to stall under load with PCM #2. I've cleaned the EGR while I had the plenum off, but haven't checked EGR operation. From what I read a faulty EGR will have different results than what I am experiencing.

Is there a way to check the fuel injector, with an ohm meter or something?

 

The replacement PCM must be programmed to your engine for it to work properly. Reinstall the original PCM.

Did you run a jumper wire to the injector connector? If not, you may have disturbed the poor connection, (post #11) enough to make it at least start and run.

Fuel pressure and leakdown are fine.

There are ways to check the injector, but first, make sure it's getting voltage when it should.

 

I've been giving you bad information, because I'm a noob with this motor. I thought that the fuel injector was in the top plenum, which I now learn is what I think to be the Canister Purge. So, that purple wire was actually purple, but I spliced it to the pink wire of the Canister Purge Solenoid, more than likely this is a bad thing to do and will fix it. I found this out when I took off the upper plenum today, and saw the fuel injector in the lower plenum. When I was removing the upper plenum, the gasket came off in pieces, like it was already broken. This was my problem. I installed a new gasket, put it all together, and took it for a ride. Runs better than before without stalling.

Thanks for any help.