I ordered a couple of springs but do I have to get valve seals too? Not very knowledgeable on the engine internals, I want to get what I need and have my father give me a hand, he's on vacation so can't ask him right now about the seals BTW i think I mentioned in a post that sometimes when I start it up, it starts before a full crank, as soon as I turn the key it just fires up kind of weird but that be an idication of something??
GS

 

I would do seals while you are in there. They are not that expensive. You'll have all of the tools at hand to change them out and it won't hurt a thing so long as you do it properly (hard to mess up).

Hope you have an air compressor on hand to keep those valves up in the heads.

 

Yes I do I just have to buy the spark plug hole adaptor for the air line,
Thanks

 

If you have a screw in compression tester you should be able to use that to put air in the cylinder. put the air in slow, the engine can turn over a little bit. It is a waste of time and money if you change the valve seals only on one cylinder don't do it if you don't need to. You may want to check the cam lobes with a dial indicator. If you need tools, advice, or help, call me, EVERYONE OUT THERE !!!!!!!!! STOP WASTING MONEY ON UNNECESSARY PARTS.

PS I have wasted way more then my share and still doing it. But I am trying to cut back. It is a very very bad habit, almost as hard as it is to quit smoking.

You should check the cam lift before you take anything a part. If the cam is worn the springs will not help.

Remember to check the push rods. Check there length, see if they are straight not bent, or the ends for chips.

 

If you have the tools there, you could go around and change them all. All I am saying is that if the engine has some miles on it, it would make sense to drop the $10-$30 (depending on source) for the seals to change them all to ensure that you will not have a problem with them. You call it unnecessary parts, I call it preventative maintenance.

IMO, it is WELL worth my time to drop in new valve seals while I am already under the valve covers with rocker arms off than to have to tear into it again down the road. Especially considering the minimal cost.

I do agree that it is not worth it to change only one cylinder, but why would you do that anyway... That is not what I was suggesting.

BTW, all this fan fare... Why not just post here on this forum and answer peoples questions directly? That is the whole point of a forum...

 

Thanks Paul If I get in a bind I'll give you a call My father is a Chevy tech well until Parsons in Famington closed up He's gonna give me a hand next week and hopefully it will clear up the issue I'll have him look at the cam lift and push rods while the Valve cover is off

Thanks again
GS

 

Did you happened to figure out what the problem was yet? I have been going through the same thing. Replacing part after part and it just sucks. Hopefully somone out there knows the real problem. Mine has had this for over 2 years now and been through several GM dealerships and nothing has been found. They are freaks i guess, lol. I have replaced just about everything you have including the spider cpi twice and fuel pump twice and a lot more, beleive me. It almost feels like the truck has a aftermarket cam in it because it feels lumpy at idle and fine soon as you step foot on the gas. I dont know. If i figure it out i'll let you know. If you figure it out let me know. I have just about given up. Mine is a pickup by the way so i really shouldn't be on here but atleast on here i found somone with the same problem as me.. lol Please let me know if you figure it out. Maybe it is one of the cam lobes.

 

Haven't figured it out yet, Changed every sensor except the crank sensor and Ignition control module, Just got my AC delco distibutor cap gonna try that soon and someone suggested Weak valve springs so Tuesday my next day off I'm gonna pull the valve covers off Do a leak down test, Change the springs and take a look at Valves If I figure it out I'll let you know Please do the same

 

will do

 

Hello all,
I hope this is the last entry I make on the rough idle problem I've been trying to solve for months. Today I did a Cylinder leak down test on cylinder #1 my problem child!!
Test result showed that I had a leak at the exhaust valve I could feel air escaping at the tail pipe. We then loosened the rocker nuts and tested again to determine if it might be a valve spring as suggested, we still had a leak. I then began to think of the money I would have to spend to fix it Uggggg !! I then tighten up the rocker are nuts to spec and put the truck back together I fired up the truck and there was no skip I took it for a ride to get it to operating temperature and truck idled as smooth as silk so I ran it down to emissions at it passed with flying colors!!! So i guess I would suggest checking the tension on the Valves
Thanks to all who have helped me out over the last few months
Hopefully my problem is solved.