ok so when its just plain hot out or after the motor warms up it will start to stumble like its not fireing on all cylinders so far i have replaced TPS, IAT, FPR, distributer cap and rotor, plugs and wires, coil, cat, PCV, fuel filter the codes its throwing say (running rich on bank one), (o2 low voltage bank one, sensor one), and (TPS circuit low voltage) but iv never known a o2 to have that much of a impact and the TPS is brand new and as forit running rich it ownley throws that every once in a while

 

Can you list the specific codes (Pxxxx)? That will get me into the actual diagnostic steps for the given code.

So in all of this, you didn't change out the O2 sensor? Have you checked the fuel pressure, specifically what happens after you turn the key off? The pressure should hold. If it does not, that indicates that you have a fuel leak. Most likely culprit on the CPI motor is an internal fuel leak either caused by the FPR (most common) or the 'nut kit' (internal fuel lines).

 

PO122, PO131, and i dont remeber what the system to rich was right off have to wait tell it trips agine and no i havent replace the o2 yet it just thru that code and i have it on order and i just replaced the FPR just tested the fule pressure today and it was a stedy 63 and it held it after i turnd the key off one of my buddys 97 blazer was acting the same way and it was the cam sensor so i was thinking of trying that next what do you think?

 

For true OBD2 systems...
P0122 Explained
P0131 Explained - I'm working on it...

A '95 CPI motor is quite a bit different from a '97 SCFI motor in operation and in controls. The thing is, your engine only has one O2 sensor that has anything to do with the fuel delivery.

One other thing that I just thought of is the ICM (ignition control module). If this happens only after driving for a bit, then it is possible that the ICM has a temperature related fault. The '95 has a similar ICM to the '96+ trucks. You can remove the ICM and take it to your nearest Advance Auto or Autozone and have them test it. When they do, have them test it at least 10 times in rapid succession to simulate operating temperatures. If it doesn't fail through this, then it's good. Make sure to get some dielectric grease for the mating surfaces to the heat sink the ICM mounts to for good heat transfer.

 

ok heres the update, the ICM is testing out fine and she seems to be running better after changeing the plugs and wires agine but its still throwin PO122 and PO131 still waiting for the new O2 to arive so i can change it out during normal driveing she seems fine its at idle she gets a lil rough and once in a while the idle will kick up to between 1500 and 200 RPM and wont drop back down