95 blazer, vacuum hose...goes where?
#11
The area I am interested in, it closer to the intake manifold, very close to the distributor. You can't see back there, unless the dist. cap & plug wires are removed. If you take your hand & start "feeling" the vac hose, right where it attaches to the intake. Now "trace" the hose, towards the drivers side. About 8 inches from the intake, you should come to a "T" fitting. Now, follow THAT HOSE.......where does it go?
#12
not sure if youve tried this already but check if all your HVAC functions are working correctly. in cases where the vacuum ball breaks or a connection is lost, both 4wd and HVAC will be inop. I believe the HVAC system defualts itself to hi-fan and defrost mode, so if you have no other modes, its in default. it this is the case, theres something missing in the vacuum ball vacuum circuit.
#13
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Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 61

im thinking maybe it goes to a dashpot in the HVAC area? there might be a connection at the firewall. im just guessing though.
#14
Is the line above the distributor cap or below it on the drivers side of the cap
Pictures attached If it it below the cap to the right it connects to a steel tube which runs to the back of the truck to the Evap canister
Pictures attached If it it below the cap to the right it connects to a steel tube which runs to the back of the truck to the Evap canister
Last edited by swartlkk; 04-12-2011 at 05:51 PM. Reason: *Combining Consecutive Posts* - Please use the edit function to add additional information in your post if another member has yet to respond.
#15
Which one of those lines it ATTACHED TO THE INTAKE MANIFOLD ? ! ? !
Please... follow it with your HAND, starting at the manifold, follow it for about 8 inches...there should be a "T", now follow that hose...WHERE DOES IT GO ?
#16
The factory installs two devices to smooth the vacuum and make it stable; Check Valve and Canister. After a few seconds of idle, the vacuum in the canister reaches more than 19 inches. If you hit the passing lane and throttle goes wide open, the vacuum from the manifold may drop to only 2 or 3 inches. Without these two devices, your system would drop to "Defrost" mode ever time you mash the pedal. Also, your front axle would "dis-engage" since it requires contentious vacuum to remain engaged.
If there is a T and a vacuum line 8 inches from your manifold, and up-stream from the check valve and canister, I suspect someone added it. Also, I suspect that what ever it does, does not work well while you are accelerating.
#17
Picture #1 the line that is to left of Dist. Cap runs to the Black Check valve in Picture #2 it has the 2 black zip ties on it in the picture. The line in picture #1 that comes up the back side of the cap runs to the White T in Picture#2 that line goes to the transmission.Pic# 3 the line that connects to the EVAC switch Connects down below the cap to steel tubing which runs to the Evap Canister behind the drivers rear tire, Thiose are the only hoses in that area on a 95
Last edited by swartlkk; 04-14-2011 at 11:52 AM. Reason: *Combining Consecutive Posts* - Please use the EDIT feature to add additional information to your post if another member yet to respond.
#18
The Engine makes vacuum at different levels depending on RPM and throttle opening. In other words, the vacuum goes "UP" and "Down" and so does the vacuum on the hose you describe.
The factory installs two devices to smooth the vacuum and make it stable; Check Valve and Canister. After a few seconds of idle, the vacuum in the canister reaches more than 19 inches. If you hit the passing lane and throttle goes wide open, the vacuum from the manifold may drop to only 2 or 3 inches. Without these two devices, your system would drop to "Defrost" mode ever time you mash the pedal. Also, your front axle would "dis-engage" since it requires contentious vacuum to remain engaged.
If there is a T and a vacuum line 8 inches from your manifold, and up-stream from the check valve and canister, I suspect someone added it. Also, I suspect that what ever it does, does not work well while you are accelerating.
The factory installs two devices to smooth the vacuum and make it stable; Check Valve and Canister. After a few seconds of idle, the vacuum in the canister reaches more than 19 inches. If you hit the passing lane and throttle goes wide open, the vacuum from the manifold may drop to only 2 or 3 inches. Without these two devices, your system would drop to "Defrost" mode ever time you mash the pedal. Also, your front axle would "dis-engage" since it requires contentious vacuum to remain engaged.
If there is a T and a vacuum line 8 inches from your manifold, and up-stream from the check valve and canister, I suspect someone added it. Also, I suspect that what ever it does, does not work well while you are accelerating.
The area I am interested in, it closer to the intake manifold, very close to the distributor. You can't see back there, unless the dist. cap & plug wires are removed. If you take your hand & start "feeling" the vac hose, right where it attaches to the intake. Now "trace" the hose, towards the drivers side. About 8 inches from the intake, you should come to a "T" fitting. Now, follow THAT HOSE.......where does it go?
Last edited by swartlkk; 04-14-2011 at 11:51 AM. Reason: *Combining Consecutive Posts* - Please use the EDIT feature to add additional information to your post if another member yet to respond.
#19
The schematic that billbobagns posted near the top of this thread covers ALL of the possible vacuum hoses. If you have already covered those vacuum accessories and have an extra hose, it is just that, an extra hose. AKA Not Factory. Eliminate it.
And billbobagns is trying to help you, but when you snap back at him with that kind of attitude... Just doesn't make any sense to me how someone looking for help would respond in such a way.
Best to not let your frustrations with your vehicle project onto those that are trying to help you.
And billbobagns is trying to help you, but when you snap back at him with that kind of attitude... Just doesn't make any sense to me how someone looking for help would respond in such a way.
#20
The schematic that billbobagns posted near the top of this thread covers ALL of the possible vacuum hoses. If you have already covered those vacuum accessories and have an extra hose, it is just that, an extra hose. AKA Not Factory. Eliminate it.
And billbobagns is trying to help you, but when you snap back at him with that kind of attitude... Just doesn't make any sense to me how someone looking for help would respond in such a way.
Best to not let your frustrations with your vehicle project onto those that are trying to help you.
And billbobagns is trying to help you, but when you snap back at him with that kind of attitude... Just doesn't make any sense to me how someone looking for help would respond in such a way.
Please let say too, that I am the original owner of this blazer. The only time anyone (besides me) has ever worked on it, was to rebuild the transmission. This "t" fitting, and the 2 feet of hose, was not added by me. I do not think it was "added" by the trans shop. It IS possible, that the trans shop "pulled it loose" or forgot to re-attach it. (I no longer live near that shop, or I would take it back & ask them).
The end of this 2 foot long hose, was not "capped" (vacuum leak), and was not cut cleanly, but was "ragged" or broken, which leads me to think it was torn loose from its connection.
bilbobagns said... [ If there is a T and a vacuum line 8 inches from your manifold, and up-stream from the check valve and canister, I suspect someone added it. Also, I suspect that what ever it does, does not work well while you are accelerating.]
He is right about it not working well...since it attaches to nothing, and is a vacuum leak. the only other thing that doesn't work well (as I have said before) is the HVAC controls.
I am begging for someone, who actually owns a '95, to please "trace" that hose (with your hand), starting at the back of the intake manifold.
If you don't find a "t" within the first "foot", then I will cap this hose, and look at other options,to fix my HVAC troubles.
Thank you all for your help







