I recently had a system rich code, and had to replace the spider injecter, prior to that I had replaced the O2's, dist cap and rotor, and plugs and after that it actually got worse, meaning rough running. I found out that I had bump the fuel inlet lines and cracked it, so I replace those 2 lines. Now the engine is hard to start if its been sitting for more than 4-8 hours, by that I mean the engine will turn over, and its seems like its getting flooded, if I key off and on its will start after 10 tries. I check the fuel pressure at the tap and I get around 45-50, and it holds it for 2-4 seconds. I did notice that when I took off the plemuum cover, that now its pretty moist on the passendger side, where the fuel regulator is, so I replaced it, thinking it might be loading up? the SES light flashing when driving, but I'm not getting any codes, I've already sank several hundred $ in the truck, and I'm not sure if its gonna be worth much more, any body have any ideas? I did notice that at the exhaust pipe, when its idling, it doesn't sound smooth and it doesn't have a consistent pulses at the exhaust, could I have a clogged cat?
thanks in advance

 

All that rich running is murder on the cat, that most likely is the problem. The fuel pressure doesn't look all that good either, you can start with a filter change and re-test. Problem is the pumps are pretty fragile in these things so it (the pump) may not be long for this world.
When you turn on the key listen for the f/p to run breifly, if it doesn't you may have other issues. Also the pumps use the fuel in the tank to help cool them, if you run alot of the time under 1/4 tank it will shorten their life.
If you have to change the pump there are 2 vents on the tank. One you can see and one way up in front with a very short hose on it. Be careful with the front one or you'll break the fitting (15-20 bucks). When you put it back up put about a 12 inch piece of hose on it and loop it, it will make things much easier.
The off the shelf manuels don't tell you anything about the 2nd vent--I found mine the hard way. If the vent is broken/disconnected that can cause it to fail inspection in some states.

If you take it out and run it hard, I know that would be tuff to do right now, then look under it and the cat is glowing then it is junk.

Good luck!!

 

I do here the fuel pump coming on for a few seconds when keyed on, and I connected a fuel pressure guage to the fuel rail, and I'm getting close to 50 psi and it holds it for another few seconds before decreasing. I did repalace my fuel regulator the other night, reson for this was everything checked out good, but on the passenger side in the intake plemmum, it was moist and was thinking maybe the regulator is on that side and possibly leaking? that wasn't it, still hard starting, this morning it was hard to start, the engine turns over easily, and I can heard the fuel pump coming on, I don't hold the key down and continuiosly and crank the engine over, but after about 10 attempts the battery is low and I have to charge it, after a few minutes it'll fire up.
I'm wondering about the cat, could a partially plugged cat cause hard starting (too much back pressure) ?
thanks for advice

 

50psi just isn't enough for your motor. The next step I would take is to gather the necessary fittings to adapt your pressure gauge to the fuel line at the fuel filter and test the pump "dead head" pressure. If it still does not exceed 60psi, the pump is likely bad. From there, you can test the power and ground to the pump to ensure that it matches battery power and that the ground is good. If both of those check out, the pump is bad and needs to be replaced.

 

I was under the impression that 40-50 psi is all thats needed, but you say I need 60 plus?
Don't take this the wrong way I'm not questioning your knowledge, I know poeple take offence to questions, I just thought my pressure was OK

 

I'm not sure where you got your numbers from, but 50psi is barely enough for a CPI/SCFI engine. The poppet nozzles need around 52psi to properly open. But you also must consider the context in which I stated 60psi. The pump should be able to put out over 60psi as a dead-head pressure (ie no fuel being bypassed back to the tank by the FPR). The FPR should regulate the pressure between 55 and 60 psi when properly working.

 

OK no problem on the numbers, I know I'm below 50, but I'll replace the fuel filter and check the pressure again. I was warned about 1 1/2 ago when the fuel pump went bad, not to use the CXXXXXX cheapies,
Thanks again

 

OK I had to replace the battery last night, the battery had a bad cell, and at first the car started up easily, but after a few trips same thing again, hard to start. So I found out that my fuel pump was still under warrenty, so I removed it tonight, returned it, installed it, check pressure, and it was around 52ish and it fired right up. My wifes Blazer is same year and motor, checked her pressure and her's is close to 60. Back to mine, after the fuel pump replacement, I drove it around and it idles rough, not as bad as before, and when I'm driving it, the SES light flashes, and after awhile it goes away, then will come back. Now am I suppose to go back to Checker and tell them the pump is still not good?
I'm gonna get with a buddy of mine he has a Tech 2, and see what codes he can pull up, other than that I'm just frustrated and lost