Hope someone can help. Ive done a search and found a few threads on this topic but I need some more questions asked. I have a 96 S10 Blazer I just finished replacing the starter bolts both broke and the starter fell out. While I had the left front tire removed decided to replace the pads. (My sons car) I drilled out and extracted the starter bolts. What a pain. Replaced the pads on passenger side and took it for a drive. The brakes felt funny. I heard a hiss when I pushed down the pedal and it went down about half way. I thought something was wrong so I pumped the brakes up turned off the car. Started it up and my foot went almost to the floor. I pumped them again and noticed brake fluid on the ground. Found a rusted through portion of brake line.

Now for the questions. How difficult is it to replace the line? It is rusted bad.
If I remove the old line should I pinch it off after the connection up front so the fluid doesnt all run out?

I have heard its a pain bleeding the ABS system. So what can I do to try and prevent having to do that?

What is the bleeding sequence? Right rear. Left front. Left rear . Right front?

Should I get a preformed line from the dealer or is it easy enough to run the line and flare it myself?

Im hoping it isnt as bad as I think it will be.

Looking forward to responces.

Thanks Mike

 

You run a line and flair itjust be carefull with the bends that you don't kink it. Definitely a lot cheaper than from the stealer ship

 

Mike -


First Question-Are you handy/mechanically inclined?


Second - can you do/make a double flare? Do you have the proper tools? Do you what the difference is? Can you see it?


Third - are you patient?


If NO is in one/any of the above questions STOP!


Take it to your trusted mechanic/dealer! Pay a little more now, save a LIFE for ever!

Since you asked, "Can I" I would suggest taking the truck to the mechanic/dealer.


I WILL NOT take someone else's life in MY hands.


Me, my own, I'll trust myself.


My wife, kids - NO




P.J.

 

Newguy
Thanks for the response. I asked about the pre bent figuring it would save time. Since im going to be doing it on jackstands any time I save might be worth the cost of the pre bent line.

pjf1313
I didnt ask "Can I" anywhere. I have been taking care of every car ive owned for 40 years. I was a mechanic for 7 in early Honda days. Built many a muscle car. I pointed out what I had just done to the car previous to the post.

So it is not a question "Can I" I was asking the pit falls for this vehicle. Questioning what I can expect and proper sequence. Why do something twice. This forum is specific to this vehicle. Others may have run into problems I want to avoid.

I havent looked real well under there yet just found the leak near the transmission cross bar. Is the fuel line run in the same area. Anyone replace that at the same time?

 

Sorry if I came of rude, but I just don't want to see anyone hurt.




P.J.

 

Nova, if it's anything like my '98 Blazer and '99 Bravada, the most difficult part will probably be running the line up to the module. I assume you have ABS (or you wouldn't have asked about it), so you likely have the same big ABS module on the left fender. Those 3 lines running downward are tough getting into place unless you do them all at the same time (recommended; now that one line has rotted through, the others aren't likely to be far behind, as happened on my Bravada). It was below freezing here and my driveway is mud around this time of year, so when I bought my Blazer with known-rotted rear lines, I bought all the hoses, put new pads and rotors in the rear (easy to do without getting down in the mud lol), then carefully drove it to a local shop and had them replace ALL of the steel lines using the parts I provided. It still cost me $550 for all the labor, and they took the cheap way out and just cut the old lines loose, leaving them where they were then bypassing them with new brake lines. Believe me: it's not fun trying to work that long rear line through everywhere, especially if you're not laying on dry, warm concrete with the vehicle way up in the air. Also, prebent lines will come bent down to around 5' long, and you'll have to unbend the wide bends, then bend them again to work them up into the vehicle.

As for double-flaring... I've given up trying to double-flare today's bulk brake line. It comes from china and seems to be harder than heck to flare; I've worn out one flaring tool set (it stopped gripping the line) and had to buy another, which isn't working any better. Unless you're actually restoring the vehicle, better just to buy premade straight lines and put them together with unions where necessary. 10 years ago, I wouldn't have done that but my experience with the really-hard bulk line now available has changed my mind.

Bleeding: my son and I have bled the brakes on both my '98 Blazer and '99 Bravada, and it was no problem at all except these vehicles have very deep offset wheels, making it virtually impossible to get to the bleeders with the wheels on the vehicle and the vehicle(s) on the ground, especially in the rear. Otherwise, however, it went justas easily as it did with my '88 Crapice, my Elkies, and his Stangs.

 

Thanks Bravada
I took it apart last night. Not a big deal to remove the line. I think there were 5 clips and they are just press fit into the clip mounted to the frame. Just a little movement and the line leaked in many locations. The fittings at the wheel cylinders are bad also. I will be replacing the wheel cylinders as well as the flexible line that connects to the main line from front to back mounted on the pumpkin that T's off to the two wheel cylinders. I think I will be doing it in two pieces for ease of installation. If I replace everything from the connection up front by the ABS or at the ABS I will have a piece of mind it wont happen again before the car is gone. (1 year I hope.) Until he finishes school and buys something else. The flex hose wasnt in stock so I will pick it up today in the mean time I will replace the wheel cylinders and small brake lines on the pumpkin. I picked up the copper alloy lines from Advance they bend easier and wont rust. They are a little more money but I believe will last longer and easier to install. I ill fil you all in when I finish and let you know how things went.
Mike

 

An update. All fittings rusted so bad all lines from the rear wheel cylinder to the ABS needed replacing as mentioned. Since I had to remove the rear wheel cylinders I replaced the rear brakes even though there was 50% left. Make sure you replace the hardware. it was like $6.00 . The only sring not included was the one for the self adjuster. Dont loose that one or throw it out. I have to install the second piece of 1/4" line from the rear to the front. Using a 6' ready made copper/nickel line made it relatively easy to bend by hand for the first piece. The joint will be roughly mid body on the 4 door, just past the fuel filter. Make its connection toward the out side of the frame and then position it back after the 2 lines are secure. The second is almost a straight shot. I flaired one of the pieces in the rear. I used 3/16" from the flex hose junction to the left wheel cylinder. (Not really happy with the way the flair turned out.) If your doing these also the length is about 23" but the pre made only come in 20" or 30". The line to the right side wheel cylinder is about 38" so a 40" can be made to work without cutting. The flex line which mounts to the pumpkin with a bracket at the bottom is fit through a hole in the frame at the top. I suggest not even trying to save that. It is difficult to get at much easier to have a nice new connection. There is a U shaped spring clip that holds it in at the top that slips into a groove in the flex line. I haven found a replacement yet. A tip. Leave the clip off until the connection is made. Slip the 1/4" line through the hole in the frame make your connection and push the hose back up through the frame and install the clip. (Does anyone know the part number for the clip?) I went to the dealer and they couldn't find it in the parts breakdown. Then his computer went down. It can be installed afterwords. Make sure you fit the hose through the frame ahead of time. The one I have seemed to only fit in one direction.
If I had a couple more hours and didnt have to wait for the flex line I would be done. I had to go to a birthday party and then it started to rain. Hopefully i will get the next line in today. Its supposed to rain all day. Will see.

Found the clip. Dorman Number HW 1457 or BrakeBest H1457-2 O'Reileys
More to come.

 

Finished the car today without much trouble. The driver side caliper bleeding screw snapped but I had replaced them from AutoZone a couple years ago and they have a life time warranty so I got another. No leaks that I can see I let the brakes gravity bleed and then did the 2 person bleed at each wheel starting with right rear then left rear then right front finally left front. I am wondering if the power booster is going. I can lock the front brakes up in reverse. Did it to adjust rear brakes. I tried slamming on the brakes moving forward and no luck locking them up. No noise from ABS either. I tried turning off the car and pushing the brake pedal with the motor off and I get one push before the pedal gets stiff. I also pulled the vacuum hose to the booster with it running and here plenty of vacuum. If I pull the hose after the motor is off I do here the vacuum escape. This is my sons car dont drive it to much so I dont know how the brakes are supposed to work. I here a brief woosh of air when I first apply the brakes and then it stops and I can push on the brakes to stop. Its almost like you have to get past that woosh before it starts to brake. Anybody else have this problem?

 

Bump

Any other ideas. Im going to try and re-bleed today. Maybe the booster is bad? I did notice if I pump the brakes rapidly when standing still the rpm goes up and down bout 200 rpm each way off of idle.