2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech Discuss 2nd generation S-series (1995-2005) general tech topics here.

96 jimmy cutting out while driving, no SES Lights

Old Dec 21, 2014 | 07:41 PM
  #11  
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Could very well be an ignition switch. If you connect a wire to the pink wire at the ignition coil, and another wire to ground, then run the two wires into the cab. Connect the wires to a socket and bulb. You'll be able to see if the coil loses power when the problem ocurrs, (bulb blinks or goes out).

Something to keep in mind when checking fuel pressure only at the service port: The pressure tester reading will tell you the LOWER of regulated fuel pressure OR maximum fuel pump output pressure. For example: If the pump can only build 60psi, and the regulator is set for 63psi, the pressure tester will indicate 60psi. Using that reading alone, you could easily overlook a faulty fuel pump. The easiest way to check fuel pump maximum output pressure and leakdown, is at the fuel filter outlet. An adapter that goes from the filter directly to the pressure tester is required. All fuel pressure and flow must end at the tester, with no fuel allowed to the engine. While the pump is running, pressure must be 73psi to 108psi. It must remain above 55psi for at least 10 minutes after the pump shuts off. Here's a parts list for building the adapter:


1996 and Late production, CSFI equipped 1995's:

QTY 1 Watts LFA-116 1/4” FIP X 3/8” compression adapter. Available at Lowes or Home Depot

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Watts-3-8-in-x-1-4-in-Lead-Free-Brass-Compression-x-FIP-Coupling-LF-A116/202254848?keyword=lfa116

QTY 1 Watts LFA-80 1/4” MFL X 1/4” MIP adapter. Available at Lowes and Home Depot:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-1-4-in-x-1-4-in-Lead-Free-Brass-Flare-x-MIP-Half-Union-LFA-80/203468369?keyword=lfa80

QTY 1 Dorman 800-170 Fuel filter adapter line. Available at most auto parts stores:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/needa-parts-steel-fuel-line-repair-kit-3-8-x-4-with-16mm-clip-800-170/16140334-P?vehicleIdFromReq=40747&isAllVehicle=false&vehicl eIdSearch=40747&searchTerm=800-170&showTitle=

Total cost is approximately $10
 

Last edited by Captain Hook; Jan 1, 2015 at 02:48 PM.
Old Dec 21, 2014 | 09:20 PM
  #12  
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Thanks for your help! I'm running out of time before my christmas trip and now I have family in town so i won't be able to fiddle with it. I bought a replacement switch and i want to have a local shop put it in on Tuesday. Hopefully they won't rake me over the coals to replace it! I'll purchase the parts to check pressure at the filter just in case...
 
Old Dec 21, 2014 | 09:25 PM
  #13  
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Piece of cake on the adapter. Pretty much self explanatory once you have all of the parts. Up here in the "rust belt" the tough part is getting the fuel filter outlet, (forward) fitting out of the fuel filter, they like to rust. Shouldn't be a problem in Atlanta though
 
Old Dec 22, 2014 | 07:17 AM
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I just fit a rubber hose directly on the outlet of the fuel filter. This is an easy place to get to. As long as there is no real fuel flow, even with an 80% blocked filter, the pressure will still read the same as if you were reading the line before the filter.
 
Old Dec 22, 2014 | 01:25 PM
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rxjimmy, that works on 1998 and newer only. The OP has a 96 which has a female fitting on both ends of the filter.
 
Old Dec 22, 2014 | 06:43 PM
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Captain, I'm actually not so far from you... I moved back up to Romeo MI about a year ago! Have plenty of rust to deal with, I've already replaced the fuel line from the filter to the engine so that end is easy to disconnect. Switch is replaced, not sure if it's any better yet!!
 
Old Jan 1, 2015 | 01:39 PM
  #17  
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Problem was the ignition switch-It no longer cuts out! Funny, I used to be able to pull the key out when in gear... Can't do that anymore!
 
Old Jan 6, 2015 | 10:47 AM
  #18  
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Still cutting out!!!

Where are the grounds for the PCM?

My dash lights and voltage gage is flickering and I suspect that the PCM or some electical grounds are bad. I had the alternator tested at autozone and they said it tested good.
 
Old Jan 6, 2015 | 02:02 PM
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Grounds are everywhere! Main ones for the PCM are on the rear of the cylinder heads. Gotta check battery positive and ground cables, both ends of all cables.

Can't trust AZ test machines: pretty to look at, but the beauty is only skin deep. They're worthless, ever wonder why they're right next to the chilton & haynes manuals? It's not a coincidence Really need to test starters and alternators on the vehicle.
 
Old Jan 6, 2015 | 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Captain Hook
Grounds are everywhere! Main ones for the PCM are on the rear of the cylinder heads. Gotta check battery positive and ground cables, both ends of all cables.

Can't trust AZ test machines: pretty to look at, but the beauty is only skin deep. They're worthless, ever wonder why they're right next to the chilton & haynes manuals? It's not a coincidence Really need to test starters and alternators on the vehicle.

Are the PCM grounds on the passenger side? My battery grounds to the engine but I don't see any ground to the frame. I had the alternator tested on the vehicle while it was running and it checked out fine.
 

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