ok here is the live data at 2k rpm.

 

Man that doesn`t sound good at all.You may have internal problems.How many miles you have on her?

 

I would test each sensor to make sure your getting the right amount of voltage being fed to them.Afterwards run a O2 test with a scanner.If you discover theirs a couple defective sensors,don`t just change the bad one`s.If you`ve had your ride for awhile and never changed out any of your sensors.I would change them all out.I`ve been having my blazer going on 7 months now.The first month I had her, the "Service engine soon came on"It would go on and off every other day..The motor had a slight misss to it that you can feel.I ran a test on the feed wires going to the sensors, they checked out ok, had the right amount of volts going to them.Put them both back in, ran a scan test it said something" about bank one and bank too.Didn`t understand what it was saying.I just decided it would be worth my time on just replacing both of them.Guess what, it started right up and ran like it was brand new again, no more engine miss or no more engine light coming on.It`s up to you bro, I`m sure a certain group of members will say something different.Just make up your mind,do some more research if need be, then run from there.Also check to make sure you have decent cat converters.If one of them are bad, it will throw the whole system off.

 

150k miles. Thats just the exhuast sound. I have the cat cut off right before it

 

Engine coolant temp is low, (160F). It needs to be 195F to 200F. Either it's not up to operating temp, or the thermostat was stuck partially open during your video.


Throttle position sensor at 2.7% seems low for 2Krpm. Try this: Key on, engine off, slowly, (10 seconds) push the throttle to the floor. Watch the % and TP voltage both climb smoothly, (no blips, spikes, or drop outs). What is the % and voltage at wide open throttle?


We need 3 different places, (ways) to check temperature and compare them. All 3 need to be within a couple of degrees of each other. Let the vehicle sit 12 or more hours without starting the engine. Connect the scan tool, key on, engine off, make a note of IAT, ECT, and an accurate outside temperature when you test them.

 

engine was not up to operating temp. didn't want to risk blowing it up. but it was in closed loop operation. new thermostat and water pump since it was leaking awhile back.


ive already checked the tps. and yes it has a smooth travel from 0 to 100 and back.


ive posted the temps in post #21 and #23. both sensors were 37f and outside was 34f. it sat in a non heated garage.


ALSO found something new today. my buddy brought over his snap on solous pro and read the cam retard. its a -7. would that be enough to make it run that rough?

 

Spec is zero, plus or minus 2 degrees. -7 is out of spec, and it will cause crossfire in the cap. Not a big deal to get it back in spec. There might be enough adjustment without even modifying the hold down bracket.

 

ok I am getting a new distributor anyway with the aluminum housing. I hope that works. if not what else do you think it would be?

 

Make sure you modify the hold down bracket BEFORE you install the new distributor.


We're still in the diagnosis process. Don't **** off your buddy with the Solus Pro, we're not done with him yet

 

yea I have to make the hole a bit bigger then use the scanner again to set it to 0.


we were also trying to figure out where the cam crank relearn is in the scanner. couldn't find it.


so after I get the new dizzy in and set to 0 and it still runs horrible then what do you suggest I do next? I hope this fixes it though.